light pods, one up one down
Discussion
After making a new motor retaining bracket I thought I would just put them in place and give the lights a try,easy.I had previousley disconnected the battery but had forgot at that at some point I had reconnected it for a wiring check.When I put in the drivers side bracket and motor and connected the wires the motor began to do its thing as the light switch was also on.I quickly turned of the switch but the motor arm had spun right round.Now with both pods in place I have one light up and one down.I assume the shaft which has a flat on it for the arm to fit, has done a three sixty turn and the motor relies on the pods being in place to stop this.So it needs turning with the manual knob round the opposite way? Any help on this?
Edited by rocky65 on Saturday 29th October 17:54
Are you saying the motors only have a certain range of movement,because. it appeared that the arm went right up and over and jammed on the body .If i set the motors in position on the brackets and turn on the lights, the motor arm should only rise and fall and not rotate ,correct?
Edited by rocky65 on Saturday 29th October 21:00
rocky65 said:
Are you saying the motors only have a certain range of movement,because. it appeared that the arm went right up and over and jammed on the body .If i set the motors in position on the brackets and turn on the lights, the motor arm should only rise and fall and not rotate ,correct?
The motor only rotates one way, it doesn't go clockwise for up and anticlockwise for down. It rotates so many degrees and stops, which should leave the arm extended up and forward of the motor. With the lights turned off it should rotate the remainder of the circle leaving the arm pointing down. Either way, the arm should be fitted with the 'crank' facing out from the motor, it shouldn't be possible for it to jam on the body.Edited by rocky65 on Saturday 29th October 21:00
Hi Mate..Just an idea..When mine was doing the wink it was initially a lose wire..The pod and motor was removed and checked over and put back in..It still came up in the off position..When my light switch was off the N/S stayed up so i took out the relay for that pod, Switched on the lights so that the O/S came up..(Both up now)..Disconnected the battery and proceeded to remove the lenses and bowls..I then noticed that the one that was staying up in the off position had the lift arm put on in the down position..An easy mistake..Pod out and then i undid the arm from the motor end..There is a rectangle hole on the arm which allows two positions of fixing..I changed it to match the O/S..Re-fitted the bowls and lenses..replaced the relay..Re-connected the battery and they both stayed up..Turned off the switch and they both went down..Hope this helps..Ziga
sorted today.The motor arm was rotating round and round so I took the front of the motor and inside theres a plastic sisc on which is a lug which clips into place to stop it rotating completeley.this had come out,now they both rise and fall together but does anyone know how to adjust the pods to keep them in line with the body when down.
There should be a little piece of rubber hose mounted on a bendable bracket directly underneath the pod that acts as a stop, The bottom of the pod rests on it..I think you might have to take out the lenses to adjust them but do remember to disconnect your battery when the pods are in the up position as if they go down with your arm inside the pod it could be pretty nasty..That reminds me, I must sort mine out..Ziga
rocky65 said:
zigga, the piece of rubber is there, as I understand as as a stop when in up position .So do you also think it it acts as a stop for the pods when in the down position, Karl.
Yea with two sh3tting little nuts, easy to adjust once these are free.to adjust the light pod up, if they are not raising enough when on, the adjustment is on the arm that raises them.
Hotty
The adjustable link between the cranked arm and the pod should be adjusted to set the pod flush with the body when retracted. Once that's done you're stuck with whatever height they end up at when raised and have to then adjust the light beams to the correct alignment. If you find you can't get enough travel on the adjusting screws you either have to pack the headlamp bowls or readjust the link and live with the pod not sitting flush. If you try to use the adjustable link to set the lamp aim you'll find the pods won't close flush.
The rubber hose bumpers are to stop the pods wobbling.
The rubber hose bumpers are to stop the pods wobbling.
Wedg1e said:
The adjustable link between the cranked arm and the pod should be adjusted to set the pod flush with the body when retracted. Once that's done you're stuck with whatever height they end up at when raised and have to then adjust the light beams to the correct alignment. If you find you can't get enough travel on the adjusting screws you either have to pack the headlamp bowls or readjust the link and live with the pod not sitting flush. If you try to use the adjustable link to set the lamp aim you'll find the pods won't close flush.
The rubber hose bumpers are to stop the pods wobbling.
You would I assume run the link out to lengthen the arm if the pod is too low when down?The rubber hose bumpers are to stop the pods wobbling.
HOTTY said:
Now wedg1e has forgotten more than I will ever know (no I not blowing smoke up his a3se) but using the arm for adjustment to the body will get you there, you need the bump stop to level the pods as there is so much movement with the pivots.
Best of luck hotty
Theres no problem at all with the up position,so are you saying the rubber stops can be used to level up the pods in the down position,its all getting very confusing for such a seemingly simple job.cheers Karl Best of luck hotty
yesbeing confused is a wedger at work.
look under your car there will be/should be two small bolts with two slots cut into the fibreglass which allows you to move the rumber bumper forward or backwards (your car is before 87 so it maybe a little different).
it does stop the pod from moving whilst down but will also help to level them to your bodywork, try it
rocky65 said:
sorted today.The motor arm was rotating round and round so I took the front of the motor and inside theres a plastic sisc on which is a lug which clips into place to stop it rotating completeley.this had come out
Well spotted. Must admit I didn't think of that being the issue from the way you described it. Just proves that Wedge lights aren't some kind of black magic.Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff



