Replacing a central heating/HW controller
Discussion
Chaps,
We've been in our house for a couple of years now and it's probably time I looked at replacing my aging CH controller. The system is a vented affair, with a conventional boiler downstairs, cylinder upstairs (no immersion), wall-mounted stat in the hallway and this monstrosity upstairs on the landing.
It's an old ACL Lifestyle LS112, I don't even know who makes this but having a bit of a Google, it looks like it might be Drayton now. The main problem with this old controller is that it doesn't allow me to separately control CH and HW - I can either have HW on, or HW + CH. As the CH is stat controlled downstairs, it would be nice to be able to have the hot water circuit on a timer and the CH on constant, regulated by the stat. As it stands at the moment, if I have the heating on and regulated by the stat, the HW is also on. This is obviously not very efficient.
So, two questions really. Firstly, what is a suitable replacement for this controller? I don't need anything too fancy, just something with a timer which will let me independently control both circuits.
Secondly, how easy are these things to wire in yourself? I'm a reasonably competent DIYer and if it's a case of "put wire X in terminal B" then I have no problem with that. This is how the wiring in the controller box currently stands:
Thanks very much in advance.
We've been in our house for a couple of years now and it's probably time I looked at replacing my aging CH controller. The system is a vented affair, with a conventional boiler downstairs, cylinder upstairs (no immersion), wall-mounted stat in the hallway and this monstrosity upstairs on the landing.
It's an old ACL Lifestyle LS112, I don't even know who makes this but having a bit of a Google, it looks like it might be Drayton now. The main problem with this old controller is that it doesn't allow me to separately control CH and HW - I can either have HW on, or HW + CH. As the CH is stat controlled downstairs, it would be nice to be able to have the hot water circuit on a timer and the CH on constant, regulated by the stat. As it stands at the moment, if I have the heating on and regulated by the stat, the HW is also on. This is obviously not very efficient.
So, two questions really. Firstly, what is a suitable replacement for this controller? I don't need anything too fancy, just something with a timer which will let me independently control both circuits.
Secondly, how easy are these things to wire in yourself? I'm a reasonably competent DIYer and if it's a case of "put wire X in terminal B" then I have no problem with that. This is how the wiring in the controller box currently stands:
Thanks very much in advance.
Going off you're description of how the system works and the wiring (or lack of) I'm guessing you have gravity hot water and pumped heating.
Which means the CH can not be run independently to the HW. You'll need it converted to fully pumped.
Just to confirm my suspicions, do you have any motorised valves near the cylinder?
Which means the CH can not be run independently to the HW. You'll need it converted to fully pumped.
Just to confirm my suspicions, do you have any motorised valves near the cylinder?
Rickyy said:
Going off you're description of how the system works and the wiring (or lack of) I'm guessing you have gravity hot water and pumped heating.
Which means the CH can not be run independently to the HW. You'll need it converted to fully pumped.
Just to confirm my suspicions, do you have any motorised valves near the cylinder?
Hi Ricky, yeah there's a motorised valve right next to the cylinder. Does this mean our system is already fully-pumped?Which means the CH can not be run independently to the HW. You'll need it converted to fully pumped.
Just to confirm my suspicions, do you have any motorised valves near the cylinder?
Edit: This is a picture of the valve. It's the only one as far as I can see.
Edited by TankRizzo on Sunday 30th October 19:59
Any twin channel timer can replace it. Most are wired up the same. With a Live an Neutral connection. The a CH ON + OFF and HW ON + OFF. You may find it is on a universal backplate so they can simply swap over. Aslong as the wiring on the backplate is the same.
Before you replace it, remove the timer and check there isn't an adjustable setting on the back to change between fully pumped and gravity.
Before you replace it, remove the timer and check there isn't an adjustable setting on the back to change between fully pumped and gravity.
I think I would start afresh and sleeve those lives with phase marking and sleeve the earths too.
You need: A programmer capable of CH On, HW On and HW Off.
A cylinder stat with a Common, Normally closed and Normally open.
A Room Stat capable of switching 230V with or without a neutral.
The mid-pos valve you have.
A wiring diagram for a fully-pumped system with a mid-pos valve.
That junction box.
If you can read a wiring diagram it's a piece of piss.
You need: A programmer capable of CH On, HW On and HW Off.
A cylinder stat with a Common, Normally closed and Normally open.
A Room Stat capable of switching 230V with or without a neutral.
The mid-pos valve you have.
A wiring diagram for a fully-pumped system with a mid-pos valve.
That junction box.
If you can read a wiring diagram it's a piece of piss.
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