Drivers door window
Discussion
Went out for a big run with a few TVRs , did 356 miles in 35 deg C heat the Sx ran really well no over heating which is good to know it can cope..........
But it's a TVR something had to fall off, wound the window down and there was a clunk at which point the window went down a million miles an hour never to return.....
Now I was aware the track It sits in is rusty but now it needs looking at with a view to fixing it, so, does anyone know what it is off or do I just make one? And how does the mechanism come out of the door , please don't tell me the door has to come off!!!!!!!!
All up a great day, will post some vids.
Cheers
Adam
But it's a TVR something had to fall off, wound the window down and there was a clunk at which point the window went down a million miles an hour never to return.....
Now I was aware the track It sits in is rusty but now it needs looking at with a view to fixing it, so, does anyone know what it is off or do I just make one? And how does the mechanism come out of the door , please don't tell me the door has to come off!!!!!!!!
All up a great day, will post some vids.
Cheers
Adam
Dont know about were the runners come from but they are held in from under the door and can pulled up through the top of the door, the window mechanism comes out complete with motor through one of the holes in the inside of the door, you have to wind the window down to get it out and its a bit fiddly.
Lets try again http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-FRON...
Cheers Martin,
I got some bits today and I`m having a go at making them, the two guides that the nylon ball fit in are ok so i just need to replace the u~section the the glass fits into. Im also going to repair the front track and mirror mount and get it sprayed properly.
I`ll update soon.
Adam
I got some bits today and I`m having a go at making them, the two guides that the nylon ball fit in are ok so i just need to replace the u~section the the glass fits into. Im also going to repair the front track and mirror mount and get it sprayed properly.
I`ll update soon.
Adam
Well I decided I would make a new channel, it was quite easy I just cut off the channels that the nylon ball fit into and welded a new steel channel for the glass to fit onto and sicaflexed it in.
All you need to remember is to smear the balls with vasolene before putting it in!!!!!!
All you need to remember is to smear the balls with vasolene before putting it in!!!!!!
Oz2 said:
Well I decided I would make a new channel, it was quite easy I just cut off the channels that the nylon ball fit into and welded a new steel channel for the glass to fit onto and sicaflexed it in.
All you need to remember is to smear the balls with vasolene before putting it in!!!!!!
Did you prep the glass with anything? Unless you have a primer-less adhesive (which itself needs an activator) it's only a matter of time until the glass vibrates loose from the adhesive. All you need to remember is to smear the balls with vasolene before putting it in!!!!!!
Glassman said:
Did you prep the glass with anything? Unless you have a primer-less adhesive (which itself needs an activator) it's only a matter of time until the glass vibrates loose from the adhesive.
no i did`nt but the way tvr did it it just sat in the grove with a strip of rubber to wedge it in, so no fixing at all, even if the sica lets go from the glass gravity will do the rest it will still be wedged in.Cheers
Adam
I had the same problem with the window from passengers door : I welded a new plate for the mirror, new rubber to slide and I glued the glass in the holder , together with a new rubber; the same glue as will be used for installing a windscreen : it works perfect and it is tight fitted , no noise anymore when it will be operated
cheers
Paul
cheers
Paul
Best of luck my friend. I hope it stays that way for you.
The torsions placed on the channel by the regulator will, sooner or later, separate the PUR from the glass (and/or channel). Unless the glass (and channel) has had some form of adhesion promoter applied to it.
IME, a coat of primer not only minimises this risk, but short of that channel corroding, eliminates it.
The torsions placed on the channel by the regulator will, sooner or later, separate the PUR from the glass (and/or channel). Unless the glass (and channel) has had some form of adhesion promoter applied to it.
IME, a coat of primer not only minimises this risk, but short of that channel corroding, eliminates it.
Oz2 said:
Well I decided I would make a new channel, it was quite easy I just cut off the channels that the nylon ball fit into and welded a new steel channel for the glass to fit onto and sicaflexed it in.
All you need to remember is to smear the balls with vasolene before putting it in!!!!!!
You can't get away with that line without someone noticingAll you need to remember is to smear the balls with vasolene before putting it in!!!!!!

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