Uh oh, rad valve unstuck now won't go all the way back!
Discussion
Hi all,
I've just been looking at the problem rad valve in the boys room, the pin was gummed in solid so after a bit of persuasion with pliers and penetrating oil I got it out, now it won't go back in as far as it used to and I can't get the valve head back on - d'oh!

Now pushing it in gives about 3-4mm of spring, pulling it all the way out causes a leak - not great with a 5 year old in the room with a like of pulling things out!
So have I buggered things up? Any rapid fix suggestions? Hammer hasn't worked btw
The good news is that the rad is at least getting warm now.
Cheers,
Rob
(Hmmm, would probably have helped if I'd mentioned rad valve in the title, any mods out there?)
I've just been looking at the problem rad valve in the boys room, the pin was gummed in solid so after a bit of persuasion with pliers and penetrating oil I got it out, now it won't go back in as far as it used to and I can't get the valve head back on - d'oh!
Now pushing it in gives about 3-4mm of spring, pulling it all the way out causes a leak - not great with a 5 year old in the room with a like of pulling things out!
So have I buggered things up? Any rapid fix suggestions? Hammer hasn't worked btw

The good news is that the rad is at least getting warm now.
Cheers,
Rob
(Hmmm, would probably have helped if I'd mentioned rad valve in the title, any mods out there?)
Edited by B19GRR on Saturday 12th November 12:51
There's only one sure fix.
Buy new TRV valve.
Buy Fernox.
Drain system.
Fix on new TRV valve
Add fernox.
Refill system.
It's probably going to be cheaper and easier at the end of the day, plus you can fit/fix others at the same time, then just check round for leaks (compression joints need to be just tight enough but not too tight).
Buy new TRV valve.
Buy Fernox.
Drain system.
Fix on new TRV valve
Add fernox.
Refill system.
It's probably going to be cheaper and easier at the end of the day, plus you can fit/fix others at the same time, then just check round for leaks (compression joints need to be just tight enough but not too tight).
Globs said:
There's only one sure fix.
Buy new TRV valve.
Buy Fernox.
Drain system.
Fix on new TRV valve
Add fernox.
Refill system.
It's probably going to be cheaper and easier at the end of the day, plus you can fit/fix others at the same time, then just check round for leaks (compression joints need to be just tight enough but not too tight).
Buy new TRV valve.
Buy Fernox.
Drain system.
Fix on new TRV valve
Add fernox.
Refill system.
It's probably going to be cheaper and easier at the end of the day, plus you can fit/fix others at the same time, then just check round for leaks (compression joints need to be just tight enough but not too tight).
If the pin was in that state replacement is really the only option. Vandal-proof it until next summer then get it sorted. You may find that other TRVs are going to go that way soon as well. Globs said:
There's only one sure fix.
Buy new TRV valve.
Buy Fernox.
Drain system.
Fix on new TRV valve
Add fernox.
Refill system.
It's probably going to be cheaper and easier at the end of the day, plus you can fit/fix others at the same time, then just check round for leaks (compression joints need to be just tight enough but not too tight).
Or:Buy new TRV valve.
Buy Fernox.
Drain system.
Fix on new TRV valve
Add fernox.
Refill system.
It's probably going to be cheaper and easier at the end of the day, plus you can fit/fix others at the same time, then just check round for leaks (compression joints need to be just tight enough but not too tight).
What sort of system is it?
If it's sealed:
Turn off heating.
Drop the pressure by connecting a hose and draining a bit out until the gauge shows '0' and there is no water when you open a rad vent.
Close the other end of the rad.
Put old towel around pipe below rad.
Get new valve ready.
Loosen off nuts fully.
Quickly remove valve and fit new.
Tighten nuts.
Repressurise.
If it's a vented system:
Turn off heating.
Put speedfit cap over vent.
But bung/cork in header tank cold feed connector.
Close other end of rad etc....
It's a vented system, oil fired thing.
I tried fiddling with the other valve on this rad a while back and it just started leaking so I unfiddled it quickly!

I'm umming and ahhing a bit about filing a chamfer on to the end in case it's catching on a lip somewhere but it sounds like it should be very simple in there.
Cheers,
Rob
Arthur Jackson said:
r:
If it's a vented system:
Turn off heating.
Put speedfit cap over vent.
But bung/cork in header tank cold feed connector.
Close other end of rad etc....
What's this vent bit?If it's a vented system:
Turn off heating.
Put speedfit cap over vent.
But bung/cork in header tank cold feed connector.
Close other end of rad etc....
I tried fiddling with the other valve on this rad a while back and it just started leaking so I unfiddled it quickly!
Arthur Jackson said:
PS
For future reference, NEVER pull the pin up on a TRV. Push down HARD instead to break the seal with the seating and allow to spring back up.
Noted For future reference, NEVER pull the pin up on a TRV. Push down HARD instead to break the seal with the seating and allow to spring back up.

Globs said:
Inside it's just like any other water tap.
Push in - tap off, pull/spring out - top on.
The plastic bit contains the wax/whatever thermostatic thing.
So why won't it go any further in now? Push in - tap off, pull/spring out - top on.
The plastic bit contains the wax/whatever thermostatic thing.
I'm umming and ahhing a bit about filing a chamfer on to the end in case it's catching on a lip somewhere but it sounds like it should be very simple in there.Cheers,
Rob
B19GRR said:
Ah well, had some success with further hammer massaging and got the pin in enough to seat the valve control, so thanks all for your help, and mod for correcting my overly excited typing of title 
Cheers,
Rob
With the rads in my rental properties, I have never failed with the WD40 and the hammer routine, and wire wool on the pin, never fails to work.
Cheers,
Rob
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