CV Joint Classes.
Discussion
I have all four cv joints off ready to replace and thought I had found a good deal with my local motor factor who supplied 4 new with boots and fixings for £140 total. However they do not fit, all dimensions are good but there is simply not enough clearance for the bolts to fit so returned and refunded just now.
Can others help me with good part numbers please, there seems to be a lot of options in various resources.
The cv joints off the car are GKN 170699E 226 and are 108mm by 40mm 28 spline.
Looking on here I also get Interpart BJ 6062 and GKN 301174.
I also found Front Line FCB 2196.
The kit I bought but does not fit is Shaft Tec PJ53N.
Have you bought and fitted some and where from. I do not want to buy from a TVR specialist for obvious reason ££££.
Many thanks
David
Mine came from local motor supplies part no AMKTDL3018R - C.V. Joint: Ford Sierra Granada @ £36.98 + VAT less £5.00 for return of old joints. This included joint, boot and grease. It was a non stock part but available on next day delivery.
With the car in the air and wheels off changed diff oil at same time, so may need to order LS oil at same time.
Andy
With the car in the air and wheels off changed diff oil at same time, so may need to order LS oil at same time.
Andy
For those hunting for slack in the drivechain, I have to say the difference four new cv's make is really significant.
The drive is so much better now,I did not realise how much I was driving around the problemm.
Not a nice job fairly messy but well worth it.
The drive is so much better now,I did not realise how much I was driving around the problemm.
Not a nice job fairly messy but well worth it.
Edited by anonymous-user on Saturday 19th November 20:44
Are there any other "bits" that are needed at the same time beyond the CV joints and boots / gaiters?
Can the existing CV bolts be reused? What torque do they need nipping up to?
I've just emailed "jandrcvjoints.co.uk", "davemacprops.com" and "eurodriveshafts.com" to find out whether they have the appropriate parts.
Going by this - http://www.driveshaftstore.co.uk/index.php?prodid=... - it looks like it's also used on teh 3.0 litre Vauxhall Senator as well.
(I've been getting a regular knocking from my nearside rear when accelerating lightly in a straight line or when turning right so I'm assuming that's likely to be a CV Joint gone...)
Phil
(Excuse multiple edits to this message but I'm trying to assemble as much useful information into this single thread as possible so it's more use to people in future...)
Can the existing CV bolts be reused? What torque do they need nipping up to?
I've just emailed "jandrcvjoints.co.uk", "davemacprops.com" and "eurodriveshafts.com" to find out whether they have the appropriate parts.
Going by this - http://www.driveshaftstore.co.uk/index.php?prodid=... - it looks like it's also used on teh 3.0 litre Vauxhall Senator as well.
(I've been getting a regular knocking from my nearside rear when accelerating lightly in a straight line or when turning right so I'm assuming that's likely to be a CV Joint gone...)
Phil
(Excuse multiple edits to this message but I'm trying to assemble as much useful information into this single thread as possible so it's more use to people in future...)
Edited by Bassfiend on Monday 2nd January 20:46
Mine came as a pack with CV’s , grease, boots and new bolts. The Boots actually did not fit and the bolts were the wrong pitch, however I did buy cheap and not necessarily good quality. That said the actual CV’s look good quality and have transformed the drive take up.
I re used the old bolts and just cleaned everything with a rust remover; I did this to all the washers and the tabs that hold the boots also. I cleaned and inspected the old boots and re used.
You may need, new bolts and nuts for the lower hub, and upper hub bolts, I took my hubs off and cleaned them up.
I also got new brake calliper bolts as I took the callipers and disks off also.
When it is all apart change the diff oil, I had my exhaust off also but it was fairly good access.
I re used the old bolts and just cleaned everything with a rust remover; I did this to all the washers and the tabs that hold the boots also. I cleaned and inspected the old boots and re used.
You may need, new bolts and nuts for the lower hub, and upper hub bolts, I took my hubs off and cleaned them up.
I also got new brake calliper bolts as I took the callipers and disks off also.
When it is all apart change the diff oil, I had my exhaust off also but it was fairly good access.
Just to round off this thread with (hopefully) all the info anyone will need ...
Firstly, the Interpart CV joints that I got had CV Boots that had a shaped metal plate that clamps up against the CV joint itself. The original ones on there were completely flat. Due to the shaping of the plate, the three little "spreader" plates would no longer fit flat so I didn't refit them (they're not locking the bolts in position and appear to simply add clamping pressure to the boot).
Secondly you do need to remove the bottom two bolts that attach the hub carrier to the bottom wishbone - there isn't enough space to get the driveshaft out otherwise.
You *NEED* a bloody solid set of circlip pliers ... we broke the £7 Halfrauds specials and ended up using a set of needlenose pliers that we filed the ends down on to fit the circlip holes.
The driveshafts that came off had two circlips at either CV joint - one either side - whereas the new CV joints were supplied with only one circlip each. The old ones were thicker and more solid so were reused.
Also, in response to the comment about helping with shunting ... *DEFINITELY* ... mine shunts so much less it's unbelieveable! There was quite noticeable play of the old bearings on the shaft splines but the new ones seem solid.
Phil
Firstly, the Interpart CV joints that I got had CV Boots that had a shaped metal plate that clamps up against the CV joint itself. The original ones on there were completely flat. Due to the shaping of the plate, the three little "spreader" plates would no longer fit flat so I didn't refit them (they're not locking the bolts in position and appear to simply add clamping pressure to the boot).
Secondly you do need to remove the bottom two bolts that attach the hub carrier to the bottom wishbone - there isn't enough space to get the driveshaft out otherwise.
You *NEED* a bloody solid set of circlip pliers ... we broke the £7 Halfrauds specials and ended up using a set of needlenose pliers that we filed the ends down on to fit the circlip holes.
The driveshafts that came off had two circlips at either CV joint - one either side - whereas the new CV joints were supplied with only one circlip each. The old ones were thicker and more solid so were reused.
Also, in response to the comment about helping with shunting ... *DEFINITELY* ... mine shunts so much less it's unbelieveable! There was quite noticeable play of the old bearings on the shaft splines but the new ones seem solid.
Phil
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