Matching chassis paint
Discussion
I am just going through the horrific job of lying under the car cleaning the chassis up and then touching in any chipped areas.
The car when i got it had been waxoyled and i am not exagerating i must have spent 40 hrrs lying underneath and getting it off, i must have gone over it 5 times with degreaser. Well now its looking mint, really clean but obviously theres the usual loss of powder coat which i need to paint.
I'm going to
metal ready primer
por15
por15 tie coat primer
some sort of topcoat
The problem is the topcoat. What have you guys done on here? I want to match it the best i can.
I just spoke with a paint supplier and he said they can only sell me cellulose in a rattle can and that will not be strong enough for a chassis, he said it would just chip and peel away.
He said i could get sythentic paint but if its brushed on would leave brush marks, and i would need paint spraying equipment as they cant seel it in aerosol.
He did say though that i may be best off mixing white hammerite with a touch of black to get the grey colour. I have seen this done on here before.
So what have you guys done? By the end of the week i'll be ready for top coat.
Am just off outside now to start the s
t job (but better than cleaning chassis) of getting the por15 on.
The car when i got it had been waxoyled and i am not exagerating i must have spent 40 hrrs lying underneath and getting it off, i must have gone over it 5 times with degreaser. Well now its looking mint, really clean but obviously theres the usual loss of powder coat which i need to paint.
I'm going to
metal ready primer
por15
por15 tie coat primer
some sort of topcoat
The problem is the topcoat. What have you guys done on here? I want to match it the best i can.
I just spoke with a paint supplier and he said they can only sell me cellulose in a rattle can and that will not be strong enough for a chassis, he said it would just chip and peel away.
He said i could get sythentic paint but if its brushed on would leave brush marks, and i would need paint spraying equipment as they cant seel it in aerosol.
He did say though that i may be best off mixing white hammerite with a touch of black to get the grey colour. I have seen this done on here before.
So what have you guys done? By the end of the week i'll be ready for top coat.
Am just off outside now to start the s
t job (but better than cleaning chassis) of getting the por15 on.I personally prefer Rustoleum combi colour to POR, cheaper without any of the bullst. having said that you could probably use rustoleum over POR tie coat primer i suppose?? Rustoleum takes a bit longer to dry but it can be mixed in any Ral or BS4800 colour, close enough to match any TVR chassis colour??
Rustoleum has very good wetting out properties so doesn't leave brush marks.
http://www.rawlinspaints.com/Metal-Easy-Maintenanc...
N.
t. having said that you could probably use rustoleum over POR tie coat primer i suppose?? Rustoleum takes a bit longer to dry but it can be mixed in any Ral or BS4800 colour, close enough to match any TVR chassis colour??Rustoleum has very good wetting out properties so doesn't leave brush marks.
http://www.rawlinspaints.com/Metal-Easy-Maintenanc...
N.
Edited by heightswitch on Monday 14th November 18:27
st. Thats a shame, are you saying i could match the actual rust inhibitor with the chassis colour 
2 coats instead of the 4/5 im doing
I think i've done it anyway, applied 2 coats of por15 today and mixed up some white with black hammerite. I think i have a good match or am very close and a touch more black will do it. (I actually used a hell of a lot more black than i thought i would, i was literally pouring it in! ). Going to let it dry and see what its like.
So now just got to prime it with the tie coat primer and then topcoat.
What a st st horrible nasty job Still it will look mint when its done, taking my time as i want it to look nice and not like some touch ups ive seen.
t. Thats a shame, are you saying i could match the actual rust inhibitor with the chassis colour 2 coats instead of the 4/5 im doing I think i've done it anyway, applied 2 coats of por15 today and mixed up some white with black hammerite. I think i have a good match or am very close and a touch more black will do it. (I actually used a hell of a lot more black than i thought i would, i was literally pouring it in! ). Going to let it dry and see what its like.
So now just got to prime it with the tie coat primer and then topcoat.
What a s
t st horrible nasty job Still it will look mint when its done, taking my time as i want it to look nice and not like some touch ups ive seen.I had disappointing results with the POR + POR special primer + white/black Hammerite approach. It looks well enough when you have done it, but it chips horribly as soon as you actually drive the car.
My wishbones look a real mess now. Think I'm going to use stonechip or something on them next. Grrrr
Good luck!
My wishbones look a real mess now. Think I'm going to use stonechip or something on them next. Grrrr
Good luck!
Naybr said:
I had disappointing results with the POR + POR special primer + white/black Hammerite approach. It looks well enough when you have done it, but it chips horribly as soon as you actually drive the car.
My wishbones look a real mess now. Think I'm going to use stonechip or something on them next. Grrrr
Good luck!
My wishbones look a real mess now. Think I'm going to use stonechip or something on them next. Grrrr
Good luck!
oh no really. I truly hope that mines ok i really can not (ever) do this again Bud im doing mine at the mo and what a job,been 4 weekends under the car and have just started to paint(back end only).what looks like good powder coat soon comes off take my word on this.Got my diff out and many bits stripped to gain access.have seen comments on here about the time it takes and i can not see how this job can be done in a couple of days.....so it cheers me up when i know im not the only one
Bud im doing mine at the mo and what a job,been 4 weekends under the car and have just started to paint(back end only).what looks like good powder coat soon comes off take my word on this.Got my diff out and many bits stripped to gain access.have seen comments on here about the time it takes and i can not see how this job can be done in a couple of days.....so it cheers me up when i know im not the only one
Today when lying under the car with por15 all over my face lying on damp tarmac i think someone could have died if something went wrong 
I have not done the diff area, i cleaned about 80% of the waxoyl off and i just cant get in there without a ramp, so i'll have to get it over to my mates when time allows.
I'm a bit worried about the comment above on the hammerite chipping I really dont see what else i could use which i can match the colour with, surely hammerite is harder than normal 2 pack paint i would imagine?
Mines been lowered back on its wheels now and is living in the garage with a 3kw heater in there to cure the tie coat properly (says it doesnt cure below 12deg) so i'm going to have a couple of days before the topcoat goes on.
I have not done the diff area, i cleaned about 80% of the waxoyl off and i just cant get in there without a ramp, so i'll have to get it over to my mates when time allows.
I'm a bit worried about the comment above on the hammerite chipping
I really dont see what else i could use which i can match the colour with, surely hammerite is harder than normal 2 pack paint i would imagine? Mines been lowered back on its wheels now and is living in the garage with a 3kw heater in there to cure the tie coat properly (says it doesnt cure below 12deg) so i'm going to have a couple of days before the topcoat goes on.
m3jappa said:
Today when lying under the car with por15 all over my face lying on damp tarmac i think someone could have died if something went wrong
I have not done the diff area, i cleaned about 80% of the waxoyl off and i just cant get in there without a ramp, so i'll have to get it over to my mates when time allows.
I'm a bit worried about the comment above on the hammerite chipping I really dont see what else i could use which i can match the colour with, surely hammerite is harder than normal 2 pack paint i would imagine?
Mines been lowered back on its wheels now and is living in the garage with a 3kw heater in there to cure the tie coat properly (says it doesnt cure below 12deg) so i'm going to have a couple of days before the topcoat goes on.
Im using por 15,and their white top coat.Hammerite is bad for chipping this i can vouch for,i think as long as you have protected the chassis the top coat is only for show.The whole paint system in por 15 cost 120 quid all in which i think is ok if it does the job.Will report back over the weekend when i have more paint onI have not done the diff area, i cleaned about 80% of the waxoyl off and i just cant get in there without a ramp, so i'll have to get it over to my mates when time allows.
I'm a bit worried about the comment above on the hammerite chipping
I really dont see what else i could use which i can match the colour with, surely hammerite is harder than normal 2 pack paint i would imagine? Mines been lowered back on its wheels now and is living in the garage with a 3kw heater in there to cure the tie coat properly (says it doesnt cure below 12deg) so i'm going to have a couple of days before the topcoat goes on.
Ps what is the tie coat like.....ive got this and am keen to know what finish it gives,it says that it sands smooth;).Did you have any issues with the por 15 rust coat flaking in any areas or was it shoddy prep work on my behalf.Had two small areas that when sanded did flake...but when 2nd coated were fine?
.Had two small areas that when sanded did flake...but when 2nd coated were fine?
The por15 seems to have gone on very well, the preperations was bordering excessive though. The tie coat seems ok, i do have a few runs where i was lying on my back so it was difficult to get on but they will sand out.
Are you using the hardnose stuff? I wanted to use it but need to match the colour to grey of the chassis and frosts told me i couldn't mix it with black
Infact i may call the people at por15 in the states and ask them direct as theres not much info here.
I will be seriously gutted if it stonechips.
I suppose an option i do have is to use the por15 chassis coat black i bought on the outriggers as these seem to be the only bits which actually get properly hit by stones. And then just touch in the other areas with the hammerite.
I really wanted to keep it all the same colour but its starting to look like its going to be a bit touch doing so.
Are you using the hardnose stuff? I wanted to use it but need to match the colour to grey of the chassis and frosts told me i couldn't mix it with black
Infact i may call the people at por15 in the states and ask them direct as theres not much info here.
I will be seriously gutted if it stonechips.
I suppose an option i do have is to use the por15 chassis coat black i bought on the outriggers as these seem to be the only bits which actually get properly hit by stones. And then just touch in the other areas with the hammerite.
I really wanted to keep it all the same colour but its starting to look like its going to be a bit touch doing so.
Edited by m3jappa on Tuesday 15th November 22:07
Yes bud thats what im using.The prep takes ages and has driven me mad,but like you say its worth it to have a good chassis.Im also using frosts and they have been very good so far.I did look into other products all of which were hard to get hold of,so i know where you are coming from.If i were you i would use por 15 top coats and mix it yourself,then try a test area.
I know mate, 2 pairs of hands and all that
I have sent por15 an email asking. I would try the mixing of their paints but im avverse to ordering more stuff i wont use. I already have st loads of the bilt hamber stuff here, i didn't get on well with their rust remover product, if it got on the powdercoat i couldn't get it off making even more work
I have so much random paint stuff its silly
I have sent por15 an email asking. I would try the mixing of their paints but im avverse to ordering more stuff i wont use. I already have s
t loads of the bilt hamber stuff here, i didn't get on well with their rust remover product, if it got on the powdercoat i couldn't get it off making even more work I have so much random paint stuff its silly
m3jappa said:
I know mate, 2 pairs of hands and all that
I have sent por15 an email asking. I would try the mixing of their paints but im avverse to ordering more stuff i wont use. I already have st loads of the bilt hamber stuff here, i didn't get on well with their rust remover product, if it got on the powdercoat i couldn't get it off making even more work
I have so much random paint stuff its silly
I have so much random stuff periodI have sent por15 an email asking. I would try the mixing of their paints but im avverse to ordering more stuff i wont use. I already have s
t loads of the bilt hamber stuff here, i didn't get on well with their rust remover product, if it got on the powdercoat i couldn't get it off making even more work I have so much random paint stuff its silly
Well i have come to the decision that the best thing to do will be to do the outriggers and anywhere prone to chips that i'm going to use the chassis coat black from por15. I'll then touch in the other random chipped bits (which look like they have been done by things like spanners slipping tbh) with my mixed hammerite.
I do have potentially a major problem though.
I have put the tie coat primer on over the por15. I left it for 2 days (one day with a heater on in the garage) and while i can nicely sand it smooth i can chip it off with a finger nail. I spoke to por15 and they say it 'should be fine' they tell me its a high build primer so it doesnt provide any protection from chips.
So now i'm terrified i'll have to remove all the primer,which will take 5 times longer than it took to get it on. I've done a couple of test areas with both types of topcoat so tomorrow i'll see if they have gone off and provide protection well enough.
I do have potentially a major problem though.
I have put the tie coat primer on over the por15. I left it for 2 days (one day with a heater on in the garage) and while i can nicely sand it smooth i can chip it off with a finger nail. I spoke to por15 and they say it 'should be fine' they tell me its a high build primer so it doesnt provide any protection from chips.
So now i'm terrified i'll have to remove all the primer,which will take 5 times longer than it took to get it on. I've done a couple of test areas with both types of topcoat so tomorrow i'll see if they have gone off and provide protection well enough.
Well, i have left it for a couple of days to see what happens.
It is definately going harder, maybe its just the weather.
I spoke to por15 technical in the states and he told me its just meant as a tie coat so its not meant to be hard, apparantly scraping it off with a nail is acceptable. I also suppose no primer actually goes that hard, its just for the paint to stick to then the paint does the protection.
I dunno, its a bit worrying, especially when i tried to get it off properly it would take literally weeks so getting it all off and back to the por15 coat is not an option.
I tried a test sample of the topcoat and thats similar in that its taking days to harden. Por15 do say upto 96hrs to cure, its been about 72 now and is getting much much harder so i think it will be ok.
I'm getting up early tomorrow and getting out and getting the thing done, i 'll put some pics up when its done, its definately going to look good initially
It is definately going harder, maybe its just the weather.
I spoke to por15 technical in the states and he told me its just meant as a tie coat so its not meant to be hard, apparantly scraping it off with a nail is acceptable. I also suppose no primer actually goes that hard, its just for the paint to stick to then the paint does the protection.
I dunno, its a bit worrying, especially when i tried to get it off properly it would take literally weeks
so getting it all off and back to the por15 coat is not an option.I tried a test sample of the topcoat and thats similar in that its taking days to harden. Por15 do say upto 96hrs to cure, its been about 72 now and is getting much much harder so i think it will be ok.
I'm getting up early tomorrow and getting out and getting the thing done, i 'll put some pics up when its done, its definately going to look good initially
I read these thread with interest every year and hats off to you guys who go to these lengths. I work on the basis that something easy is something I will do more frequesntly so once a year I usually just pick off any flaking poweder coat and rub back any rust then Hammerite it with a special tin of white mixed with a touch of black which I keep in the garage.
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