Help please, poor starting pinto when cold!
Discussion
Got a really annoying problem, 2.1 pinto with kent fr cam, electronic ignition, brand new fuel pump, Weber 32/36 dgav k and n filter. Running about 12deg advance. Runs fine when started and warm/hot.
But got trying to start it when cold and left over night!!!
Crank crank crank, churn churn cough. battery is brand new and uprated but after few seconds struggles to turn the thing, which feels like its kicking back like big old bikes.
Starter motor rebuilt and alternator too. All leads fine and good earth as meter shown little or no resitance anywhere.
Jump it from a running car and its spinning up fine and fires.
It is fitted to a Ginetta g26 so thought bad earth but meter readings seem fine?
Does jumping from another car improve the earth? Or is it just the running car is providing alternator amps for cranking?
Please help as gonna sell it soon if it doesn't start more reliable as enjoy using it but pain as it is.
But got trying to start it when cold and left over night!!!
Crank crank crank, churn churn cough. battery is brand new and uprated but after few seconds struggles to turn the thing, which feels like its kicking back like big old bikes.
Starter motor rebuilt and alternator too. All leads fine and good earth as meter shown little or no resitance anywhere.
Jump it from a running car and its spinning up fine and fires.
It is fitted to a Ginetta g26 so thought bad earth but meter readings seem fine?
Does jumping from another car improve the earth? Or is it just the running car is providing alternator amps for cranking?
Please help as gonna sell it soon if it doesn't start more reliable as enjoy using it but pain as it is.
If jump starting it off another car starts it fine then you have either a duff battery, the battery is too small,you have poor power leads or poor connections.
Where do you connect the jump leads?
If you connect them directly to the battery then the problem can only be the battery terminals or the battery itself.
Steve
Where do you connect the jump leads?
If you connect them directly to the battery then the problem can only be the battery terminals or the battery itself.
Steve
bigtalljim said:
All leads fine and good earth as meter shown little or no resitance anywhere.
It really needs an earth resistance meter (0.01 - 1 ohm) to check this. Best test would be to look at the voltage difference between the battery negative and the starter negative while cranking.thanks for info, interesting that earth lead should go to engine then chassis earth point, i've got one to each. May reconfigure that.
battery is brand new and uprated to 390a cold cranking.
But developments today. took air filter of carb, dismantled carb and was wet inside venturi, checked float level and adjusted that as think it was not closing properly and possible fouling the spring valve inside. My floats are 2 one each side of the power valve i think it is.
wound mixture right in and back out 2 turns. reassembled minus the air filter as cleaning it and it started 1st time with barely a second or two of cranking!!!!!
Does this mean my carb was flooding and the engine trying to compress fuel thus making it hard to crank over. Have heard of something called dieseling?
Starts fine now and adjusted mixture to run fine. May of been running far too rich? plus choke flaps bit sticky too.
will clean up filter and refit and see what its like later when its cold again.
arent old engines fun, knew i wanted a project but phew!
battery is brand new and uprated to 390a cold cranking.
But developments today. took air filter of carb, dismantled carb and was wet inside venturi, checked float level and adjusted that as think it was not closing properly and possible fouling the spring valve inside. My floats are 2 one each side of the power valve i think it is.
wound mixture right in and back out 2 turns. reassembled minus the air filter as cleaning it and it started 1st time with barely a second or two of cranking!!!!!
Does this mean my carb was flooding and the engine trying to compress fuel thus making it hard to crank over. Have heard of something called dieseling?
Starts fine now and adjusted mixture to run fine. May of been running far too rich? plus choke flaps bit sticky too.
will clean up filter and refit and see what its like later when its cold again.
arent old engines fun, knew i wanted a project but phew!
390 amps dosent sound that big.. im never sure its mesured in different ways but I just looked at a varta batery not that big but 690 EN amps and 74 amp hour !!
if you have an old type starter without a reduction gear on it they are very power hungry esp if you have a bit more compresion than standard, sounds like your battery isnt up to it!!! maybe get the bigest one that you can fit and a good brand like varta ....
if you have an old type starter without a reduction gear on it they are very power hungry esp if you have a bit more compresion than standard, sounds like your battery isnt up to it!!! maybe get the bigest one that you can fit and a good brand like varta ....
390A does sound pretty small.
And ensure you have a good batter earth cable from the battery itself, to relatively close to the starter on the block or bellhousing.
Yes anywhere on the block etc can do, but the OEM tend to bolt the earth close to the starter motor, or using one of it's actual fixing bolts for a reason.
And ensure you have a good batter earth cable from the battery itself, to relatively close to the starter on the block or bellhousing.
Yes anywhere on the block etc can do, but the OEM tend to bolt the earth close to the starter motor, or using one of it's actual fixing bolts for a reason.
believe it or not but that was upgraded battery on old one. Its the 085 model fitted to most fords. One with the square posts. My new one is top quality at 47Amp and 390 cold crank rating.
Would upgrade but size is important and bit of a squeeze in engine bay of Ginetta.
Earth straps go to bellhousing and chassis and starter is Lucas type reconditioned recently too. Was looking at the new high torque ones, bit pricey but are they worth the upgrade or is later sierra one better?
Seems that running too rich can cause problem cold starting as engine tries to squeeze wet fluid and compression goes right up and battery struggles. Wonderful thing forums lol
Any body fitted bigger amp battery with same external dimensions as 085 type?
Would upgrade but size is important and bit of a squeeze in engine bay of Ginetta.
Earth straps go to bellhousing and chassis and starter is Lucas type reconditioned recently too. Was looking at the new high torque ones, bit pricey but are they worth the upgrade or is later sierra one better?
Seems that running too rich can cause problem cold starting as engine tries to squeeze wet fluid and compression goes right up and battery struggles. Wonderful thing forums lol
Any body fitted bigger amp battery with same external dimensions as 085 type?
powerstroke said:
390 amps dosent sound that big.. im never sure its mesured in different ways but I just looked at a varta batery not that big but 690 EN amps and 74 amp hour !!
if you have an old type starter without a reduction gear on it they are very power hungry esp if you have a bit more compresion than standard, sounds like your battery isnt up to it!!! maybe get the bigest one that you can fit and a good brand like varta ....
Thats what I fitted after all the shenanigins of starter motor ,new battery leads ,hair pulling etc ,no troubles since kicks my 2.1 up every timeif you have an old type starter without a reduction gear on it they are very power hungry esp if you have a bit more compresion than standard, sounds like your battery isnt up to it!!! maybe get the bigest one that you can fit and a good brand like varta ....
You'd be surprised how few amps you need for an old engine - fuel injection takes a lot of juice.
You won't have filled the engine with petrol, it would take a lot more than the carb could supply. I'm normally an SU man, but from memory the A in DGAV signifies a water heated automatic choke?
they can be quite troublesome, and certainly I'd be more comfortable with a manual choke version. It sounds a lot like the trouble a friend of mine had with a 32/36 carb on a VW camper.
You won't have filled the engine with petrol, it would take a lot more than the carb could supply. I'm normally an SU man, but from memory the A in DGAV signifies a water heated automatic choke?
they can be quite troublesome, and certainly I'd be more comfortable with a manual choke version. It sounds a lot like the trouble a friend of mine had with a 32/36 carb on a VW camper.
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