Discussion
Hullo
My girlfriend has her heart set on buying an original shape Freelander. I'd like some real world advice about these vehicles from owners. My main worry is fuel consumption, most internet sources suggest a combined economy in the high 30's to the gallon (Td4). Is this right or is this overly optimistic. What are the petrol ones like in this respect? Are there any expensive bits that are prone to failure?
My girlfriend has her heart set on buying an original shape Freelander. I'd like some real world advice about these vehicles from owners. My main worry is fuel consumption, most internet sources suggest a combined economy in the high 30's to the gallon (Td4). Is this right or is this overly optimistic. What are the petrol ones like in this respect? Are there any expensive bits that are prone to failure?
Mid to high 30s is realistic, TD4 Auto is the one to go for and avoid the petrol versions. The TD4 auto is generally a very reliable and fun car to drive... Also very capable off-road and brilliant for the snow.
Problem areas (google for details):
IRD Unit (though better on the Autos).
Viscous coupling
Engine breather filter (needs to be replaced at correct intervals)
Tyre wear
M
Problem areas (google for details):
IRD Unit (though better on the Autos).
Viscous coupling
Engine breather filter (needs to be replaced at correct intervals)
Tyre wear
M
Thanks for that. I have looked at various sources of information on the net, but it is better to find out what people's real experiences are. I like auto's but my gf doesn't for some reason (despite being an Aussie), have to convince her otherwise. I'm still a bit wary around modern diesels after my corsa packed in with terminal pump issues but I'll have to research the reliability of these (BMW) engines.
warch said:
Thanks for that. I have looked at various sources of information on the net, but it is better to find out what people's real experiences are. I like auto's but my gf doesn't for some reason (despite being an Aussie), have to convince her otherwise. I'm still a bit wary around modern diesels after my corsa packed in with terminal pump issues but I'll have to research the reliability of these (BMW) engines.
Engine should be bomb proof if maintained.We've had one from new, now 7 years and 83k miles later no major problems. Only things we have spent money on other than consumables are fuel pumps. There are couple of very minor 'must do' mods which can be done on the drive with little experience for about 40 - 50 quid each which make a huge difference to driveability:
1. Modified crank case breather. This gets crudded up and was not a service item originally, there's a modified part that BMW put on the 3 series, very worthwhile doing.
2. EGR blanking kit
3. Silicon hoses.
I'm not an expert with the spanners and the above were easy mods which made a difference in my opinion
warch said:
I assume these were the lift pumps which failed (assuming a TD4 is common rail and therefore lacks a distributor pump). I'm just been extra wary, the failure my last diesel had was a complete nightmare which would have cost thousands to put right.
There is a small fuel pump toward the rear which if I remember pumps fuel from the tank towards the front. This is not a big part or a big job.
The other was the high pressure fuel pump which was more of a big deal, that said it didn't fail completely I was just investigating a dirtier than usual engine bay and a slight fluid drop and it turns out there was a small leak on the high pressure fuel pump. New and fitted from LR its a big job approaching 1K, but at this age who takes their car to a main dealer? It was sorted by a diesel specialist who operates an exchange scheme, he took ours out and kept it to be refurb'd and replaced it with a refurb'd one. Cost was <£500.
The engine on these is nothing to be concerned about. As Camel Landy mentioned, you're or likely to see probs with the transmission than the engine, and even that is generally at high miles and is not the end of the world.
If the car has done more than 70K its almost certainly going to need a Viscous coupling replacement/refurbishment. Just had mine refurbed by Bell Engineering (£200).
The coupling becomes stiff with age and puts great strain on the IRD and rear diff, causing expensive damage if not attended to. It's also a very good idea to ensure the same type/diameter tyres are used front and rear to prevent constant loading on the coupling which locks when hot (design feature off-road) but not good on tarmac.
The coupling becomes stiff with age and puts great strain on the IRD and rear diff, causing expensive damage if not attended to. It's also a very good idea to ensure the same type/diameter tyres are used front and rear to prevent constant loading on the coupling which locks when hot (design feature off-road) but not good on tarmac.
The missus has an 06 Freelander td4 sport auto. I'd just point out that (perhaps depending on what age the car is) the auto seems to have higher CO2 emissions than the manual, and therefore a higher tax bracket. So, her 110bhp diesel landie is the same tax as my 400bhp Jag (and double that of my TVR!) That probably won't figure in your decision but be aware.
munky said:
The missus has an 06 Freelander td4 sport auto. I'd just point out that (perhaps depending on what age the car is) the auto seems to have higher CO2 emissions than the manual, and therefore a higher tax bracket. So, her 110bhp diesel landie is the same tax as my 400bhp Jag (and double that of my TVR!) That probably won't figure in your decision but be aware.
Thanks for that, I'd rather pay less tax, depends what the difference is I suppose, although I would prefer an auto reallySo on our 83k car what's the best approach to determine if the VCU needs attention to avoid it chewing the rest of the transmission?
Pugley said:
If the car has done more than 70K its almost certainly going to need a Viscous coupling replacement/refurbishment. Just had mine refurbed by Bell Engineering (£200).
The coupling becomes stiff with age and puts great strain on the IRD and rear diff, causing expensive damage if not attended to. It's also a very good idea to ensure the same type/diameter tyres are used front and rear to prevent constant loading on the coupling which locks when hot (design feature off-road) but not good on tarmac.
The coupling becomes stiff with age and puts great strain on the IRD and rear diff, causing expensive damage if not attended to. It's also a very good idea to ensure the same type/diameter tyres are used front and rear to prevent constant loading on the coupling which locks when hot (design feature off-road) but not good on tarmac.
Andychim400 said:
So on our 83k car what's the best approach to determine if the VCU needs attention to avoid it chewing the rest of the transmission?
I imagine a knackered viscous coupling would cause backlash through the steering like an old landrover does on tarmac in 4wd (old landrovers haven't got a centre diff and get transmission wind up on sealed surfaces)Pugley said:
If the car has done more than 70K its almost certainly going to need a Viscous coupling replacement/refurbishment. Just had mine refurbed by Bell Engineering (£200).
The coupling becomes stiff with age and puts great strain on the IRD and rear diff, causing expensive damage if not attended to. It's also a very good idea to ensure the same type/diameter tyres are used front and rear to prevent constant loading on the coupling which locks when hot (design feature off-road) but not good on tarmac.
The coupling becomes stiff with age and puts great strain on the IRD and rear diff, causing expensive damage if not attended to. It's also a very good idea to ensure the same type/diameter tyres are used front and rear to prevent constant loading on the coupling which locks when hot (design feature off-road) but not good on tarmac.
As others have said, check the drivetrain for VCU failure, some can go forever, others fail early.
Mine failed at 45k and took the ird, propshaft, vcu and rear diff mounts out. Costly.
Otherwise, keep it serviced, ive just bought a full service kit from a LR dealer off ebay.
Genuine, oil, air, pollon, fuel filter, crankcase breather filter and new battery for the keys. £94 delivered. Bargin! Throw in castrol oil and i can do the service for £150 on the driveway.
EGR blanking kit is about £25-50. Silicone hoses are about £110. They burst with age and oil contamination from the EGR. One of mine let go while "making progress with an A3 at typical audi motorway distance from my rear bumper. One second i could see him, next i huge wall of black smoke!
Both to fit them you need a flat head screwdriver and a Allen key set. 6mm iirc.
Check the rear compartment in the boot, if the carpet below the jack and toolkit is wet, you need a new rear door seal, cheap to buy and easy to fit.
Tyres with the most tread go to the back of the car! If you need new tyres, dont fit budgets, get a good quality make and make sure they are M+S rated. I spend £650 on 4 new michelion synchrones last may, ive covered 16k since then and the fronts are still at 6.4mm the backs are almost brand new.
You havent spoke of a budget and wither you need a 3 or 5 door.
For 00-03 models, the trim goes S-GS-ES. ES has all the toys you want/need.
If going for 04-06, the trims are E,S,SE,HSE. I have a SE and its extremely well equiped.
Mine failed at 45k and took the ird, propshaft, vcu and rear diff mounts out. Costly.
Otherwise, keep it serviced, ive just bought a full service kit from a LR dealer off ebay.
Genuine, oil, air, pollon, fuel filter, crankcase breather filter and new battery for the keys. £94 delivered. Bargin! Throw in castrol oil and i can do the service for £150 on the driveway.
EGR blanking kit is about £25-50. Silicone hoses are about £110. They burst with age and oil contamination from the EGR. One of mine let go while "making progress with an A3 at typical audi motorway distance from my rear bumper. One second i could see him, next i huge wall of black smoke!
Both to fit them you need a flat head screwdriver and a Allen key set. 6mm iirc.
Check the rear compartment in the boot, if the carpet below the jack and toolkit is wet, you need a new rear door seal, cheap to buy and easy to fit.
Tyres with the most tread go to the back of the car! If you need new tyres, dont fit budgets, get a good quality make and make sure they are M+S rated. I spend £650 on 4 new michelion synchrones last may, ive covered 16k since then and the fronts are still at 6.4mm the backs are almost brand new.
You havent spoke of a budget and wither you need a 3 or 5 door.
For 00-03 models, the trim goes S-GS-ES. ES has all the toys you want/need.
If going for 04-06, the trims are E,S,SE,HSE. I have a SE and its extremely well equiped.
warch said:
munky said:
The missus has an 06 Freelander td4 sport auto. I'd just point out that (perhaps depending on what age the car is) the auto seems to have higher CO2 emissions than the manual, and therefore a higher tax bracket. So, her 110bhp diesel landie is the same tax as my 400bhp Jag (and double that of my TVR!) That probably won't figure in your decision but be aware.
Thanks for that, I'd rather pay less tax, depends what the difference is I suppose, although I would prefer an auto reallyTD4 Manual is tax band K, which is £260 for a year
TD4 Auto, if registered before 23rd march 2006, is also band K so £260.
TD4 Auto, if registered after 23rd march 2006, it is band L which is £445.
I seem to recall the missus' auto Freelander was registered 30th March, which is rather annoying as you can imagine!
IIRC with the Freelander 2 they managed to get the CO2 figure down for the auto, so back into band K.
munky said:
warch said:
munky said:
The missus has an 06 Freelander td4 sport auto. I'd just point out that (perhaps depending on what age the car is) the auto seems to have higher CO2 emissions than the manual, and therefore a higher tax bracket. So, her 110bhp diesel landie is the same tax as my 400bhp Jag (and double that of my TVR!) That probably won't figure in your decision but be aware.
Thanks for that, I'd rather pay less tax, depends what the difference is I suppose, although I would prefer an auto reallyTD4 Manual is tax band K, which is £260 for a year
TD4 Auto, if registered before 23rd march 2006, is also band K so £260.
TD4 Auto, if registered after 23rd march 2006, it is band L which is £445.
I seem to recall the missus' auto Freelander was registered 30th March, which is rather annoying as you can imagine!
IIRC with the Freelander 2 they managed to get the CO2 figure down for the auto, so back into band K.
warch said:
Thanks for all the info guys, there's no way I'm paying £400 plus a year to tax anything, so I'm glad you mentioned it, might buy an earlier version of the auto though.
Just get one a few days older than ours. Just double checked and reg date is 27th march.. 4 days too late, would you believe it!!Gassing Station | Land Rover | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff