Discussion
Yes there's a fuse, there's a photo of a v8 fuse panel and the diagram in the manual in this thread
If you look behind the glovebox you should find it there, when you take the carpet panel down half a range rover will fall out, somewhere in that mess is the fuel pump relay (there should be two metal cased relays in the engine loom, one powers the ECU, the other the fuel pump)
If you look behind the glovebox you should find it there, when you take the carpet panel down half a range rover will fall out, somewhere in that mess is the fuel pump relay (there should be two metal cased relays in the engine loom, one powers the ECU, the other the fuel pump)
Interestingly the fuel pump primed and the car started today when i applied a local 12 v power connection to the pump but stopped running when i removed it I then checked the fuses and they are all fine. Can anyone advise where I find the fuel pump relay. I have checked under the dash by the ECU but none of them are marked up. I am presuming that it can't be the immobiliser as the car started fine with the local power applied to the pump.
bigV8 said:
I am presuming that it can't be the immobiliser as the car started fine with the local power applied to the pump.
I don't quite know why you think that - I would say this points to an immobiliser problem.You could identify the ecu output to the fuel pump and see if it is live at the ecu - if it is I guess the immobiliser is in between that and the pump somewhere.
Aside from the connector between the engine loom and the car loom V8S/chim/griff/rangerover looms should all be the same.
They all look like this except cars with out cats (most v8Ses) won't have the lambda sensors or the purge valve. I'd expect the imobiliser to be cut into one of the wires controlling the fuel pump relay (either the white and slate 12v feed from the ingition switch (could be any colour at all the other side of the body loom connector) or the blue and purple one to the ecu) rather than the power to the pump.
They all look like this except cars with out cats (most v8Ses) won't have the lambda sensors or the purge valve. I'd expect the imobiliser to be cut into one of the wires controlling the fuel pump relay (either the white and slate 12v feed from the ingition switch (could be any colour at all the other side of the body loom connector) or the blue and purple one to the ecu) rather than the power to the pump.
The fuel pump relay is one of two metal-cased relays on flying leads close to the ECU. The ECU pulls one side of the coil low to operate the pump; the other side of the coil has a fused 12V supply. The power for the pump comes into pin 30 via a fused 12V supply. The relay connects this to pin 87 when it operates. On cat equipped cars, it also connects it to pin 87a which powers the lambda sensor heaters. From pin 87 the supply goes forward to the inertia cutoff switch on the front of the passenger's footwell, and then back to the pump +ve terminal. The pump -ve terminal is permanently earthed.
Over the years I've had problems with every fuse, relay, socket, wire and switch involved at some time or other. The only way to track problems like that down is to start with a basic understanding of what is supposed to be connected to what, measure what's happening at the relay and then follow the path to the pump until you find where the power stops.
In the meantime, you might find it very useful to have a fused wire long enough to reach from the battery +ve to the pump +ve, with a croc clip on the battery end and the right size spade on the other. (You will probably find it is a 9mm spade not 6mm.) By connecting this you can bypass the whole dratted mess and run the pump to get you home.
Over the years I've had problems with every fuse, relay, socket, wire and switch involved at some time or other. The only way to track problems like that down is to start with a basic understanding of what is supposed to be connected to what, measure what's happening at the relay and then follow the path to the pump until you find where the power stops.
In the meantime, you might find it very useful to have a fused wire long enough to reach from the battery +ve to the pump +ve, with a croc clip on the battery end and the right size spade on the other. (You will probably find it is a 9mm spade not 6mm.) By connecting this you can bypass the whole dratted mess and run the pump to get you home.
Just thought I would update. I left the car in storage over the winter. Found out what the problem was to why the fuel pump would not prime. The fuel pump interia switch safety release had popped out. When it was pushed back in it started up on the button. Have to remember in future always look for simple solution first
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