Erratic oil pressure
Erratic oil pressure
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gerradiuk

Original Poster:

1,669 posts

224 months

Sunday 27th November 2011
quotequote all
Ok I changed the oil & filter, I now have the gauge giving me some erratic readings, it shows a steady 50psi when stone cold ( used to be 60-65psi), 38 -40psi when hot (90 -95 water temp)at idle,used to be solid 40-42psi. It is slow to increase when revved also slow to drop down & only shows approx 50psi hot @ 3000rpm used to be 60-70psi?

I expected the pressure to be higher as I have used 5 -40w Fully syn oil & believe that it had Mobil 1 0-40w, I say I believe because I am beginning to think that the 5-40w I have put in was thinner than the stuff the oil that came out .

2 questions probably off track but here goes, I filled the engine to what I thought was full, left it over night & it showed it was under so I topped up again to a smiggen over the level, there was some improvement.
This car has had an extra Oil cooler fitted along with the original ,will I need to put more than the standard amount in even though the dipstick shows full??

The other question is ,the filter that I took off was smaller than the new replacement, the replacement is a Land Rover V8 filter PH5443, would this make any difference ? Still cannot understand why the gauge is slow to react though ??

gruffalo

8,150 posts

255 months

Sunday 27th November 2011
quotequote all
With the weather getting colder I find it take a little longer for the oil to warm up enough to thin out so it gets down the very thiter half an hour in slow tn pipe to the gauge. Gauge reacts much quicker after half an hour in traffic.

I did an oil change recently and put a 5-30 oil in for the winter, that shaved 5-10psi off my hot running pressure from the 15-50 I used for the summer.

Gazzab

21,637 posts

311 months

Sunday 27th November 2011
quotequote all
Do you prime the filter??

gerradiuk

Original Poster:

1,669 posts

224 months

Sunday 27th November 2011
quotequote all
Hi gruff yes it is colder but I went the other way & have put in a heavier oil in as opposed to lighter oil as you have ,so would have expected the opposite really.
Gaz , yes I did fill the filter right up , it overflowed as I screwed it on it was brimming?
I think my usual trick of not getting my arms covered in hot oil when removing the old filter may have backfired here, I always pierce the old filter so the old oil drains out of the old filter so its a lot cleaner to take off...
Any thoughts about if extra oil capacity maybe needed for the extra oil cooler ?
The slow gauge is a new one though ?

gruffalo

8,150 posts

255 months

Sunday 27th November 2011
quotequote all
gruffalo said:
With the weather getting colder I find it take a little longer for the oil to warm up enough to thin out so it gets down the very thiter half an hour in slow tn pipe to the gauge. Gauge reacts much quicker after half an hour in traffic.

I did an oil change recently and put a 5-30 oil in for the winter, that shaved 5-10psi off my hot running pressure from the 15-50 I used for the summer.
I hate this chuffing key board.

Gauge being slow can be caused by think oil finding it hard to get down the pipe to the gauge, mine is slow to react to rev changes until properly hot.

ridds

8,372 posts

273 months

Sunday 27th November 2011
quotequote all
What make filter and oil?

Depending on extra cooler fitment you may also have an air lock in that.

gerradiuk

Original Poster:

1,669 posts

224 months

Sunday 27th November 2011
quotequote all
Ridds the filter is a fram PH5443
Oil is Silkolene/Titan Race Pro S 5W-40 so far I put in just under 7 litres.




ukkid35

6,411 posts

202 months

Sunday 27th November 2011
quotequote all
Fram do not have a good reputation, I would change it and see if this cures the problem.

gruffalo

8,150 posts

255 months

Sunday 27th November 2011
quotequote all
ukkid35 said:
Fram do not have a good reputation, I would change it and see if this cures the problem.
agree with this, many have had problems with these, go get one from a LandRover main dealer to ensure top quality.

HardToLove

520 posts

229 months

Sunday 27th November 2011
quotequote all
Well its all fun , just to confuse things a little bit more here is a PRO fram thread

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

Anyone mentioned the relief valve spring or when was it last changed ?
GL

ukkid35

6,411 posts

202 months

Monday 28th November 2011
quotequote all
Although this is somewhat out of date, it is still very interesting and useful

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/german...

gerradiuk

Original Poster:

1,669 posts

224 months

Monday 28th November 2011
quotequote all
Hi Guys, Thanks for all the input so far!

hardtolove thanks for that but I have read through your link & UKkid's , after reading UK's I googled some more & was surprised at how bad Fram's build quality or lack of it ie: cardboard ends etc have just bought a Cooper Fiamm filter from E bay. So when it arrives this week we will see. H?love I have also taken on board your advice re oil relief spring & have one on its way to me as well.
I will change the filter 1st out of curiosity as I must admit that i have used Fram for years & no apparent problem before so it will be interesting to see.
Thanks again will post results later in week or week end .

JensenA

5,671 posts

259 months

Wednesday 4th January 2012
quotequote all
Sounds like the Pressure relieve valve isn't working. leave the spring out, so anything that has snapped or broken can be forced out.

spongy

2,236 posts

190 months

Wednesday 4th January 2012
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Check the old spring to see if a coil has snapped off,hence the length differance.If it has this may be jammed in there somewhere...or jammed the valve.

Tanguero

4,535 posts

230 months

Wednesday 4th January 2012
quotequote all
Can you move the relief valve piston (with a magnet) once you have taken the spring out? It should slide out of the housing easily.