First problem with my new wedge

[vampire222]

Hey guys,

Got my wedge today and while driving (in rain) it stalled on me and wont start. The noise when restarting is the same as normal only it wont fire up anymore.

So i think it might be out of fuel? Or the fuel pump is dead? Whats the best way to find out, i'm gonna try that tomorrow.

The lights/radio/etc all work on the battery and the voltmeter says 11~ volt

I'll obviously also try jumping it.

-Not overheated
-No forewarning or anything before this

Edited by vampire222 on Tuesday 29th November 22:32

[blaineuk]

Is it a v6/8, 280/350/400?

[vampire222]

oops 1986 V8 350i

[blaineuk]

You should hear the fuel pump run when the starter motor is going? But may be worth putting some petrol in before you do too much.

[Lean Machine]

Put some petrol in and try again. The petrol gauge in these cars is not very accurate, it may have run out. I always carry an empty fuel can in the boot in case it runs out. If it's run out of fuel it will take a little while to start because the fuel has to reach the engine. If it still won't start, check that there is a spark at the HT leads. If there is then it must be a fault on the fuel side such as petrol pump or injectors etc. Like any other car you have to decide if it is electrical or fuel fault and take it from there. Did it stall when it was running? Are you sure there is no security system like alarm or engine cut out?
Try a few different things and you might get lucky. Good luck.
Tony.

[vampire222]

Lean Machine said:

Put some petrol in and try again. The petrol gauge in these cars is not very accurate, it may have run out. I always carry an empty fuel can in the boot in case it runs out. If it's run out of fuel it will take a little while to start because the fuel has to reach the engine. If it still won't start, check that there is a spark at the HT leads. If there is then it must be a fault on the fuel side such as petrol pump or injectors etc. Like any other car you have to decide if it is electrical or fuel fault and take it from there. Did it stall when it was running? Are you sure there is no security system like alarm or engine cut out?
Try a few different things and you might get lucky. Good luck.
Tony.

Yep i was driving along at like 30mph.

It does have an alarm but it's not armed, that's a good tip to check though! I think (hope) it's the fuel level.

The fuel gauge was jumping a bit so not exactly giving me much confidence lol. Can i just take one of the spark plugs out on the lead and see if it sparks outside the engine?

[mrzigazaga]

vampire222 said:

Can i just take one of the spark plugs out on the lead and see if it sparks outside the engine?

Why not?..Once you have established that the fuel pump is working and you have fuel in the tanks..Check the coil as well..You can pull the lead out and rest it over it to see if theres a healthy spark when its cranked..Check main fuses as well..Hopefully you just need fuel..Ziga

Edited by mrzigazaga on Wednesday 30th November 00:10

[dixiebabes]

She has probably been introduced to an M5 or something.

the biatch.

Dix

[Aeroflop]

vampire222 said:

Can i just take one of the spark plugs out on the lead and see if it sparks outside the engine?

Just remember to ground the plug.

[wooly350i]

And don't kill yaself by holding the plug and don't hold the lead tightly or without well insulated grips,it don't arf put one up you if you choose the dodgy method!

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

wooly350i said:

And don't kill yaself by holding the plug and don't hold the lead tightly or without well insulated grips,it don't arf put one up you if you choose the dodgy method!

Even worse if you have coil packs

[350zwelgje]

Had this on several occasions (cutting out while driving):
- once the king lead from the coil to the distributor had jumped off...
- another was that the bullet connector (black and white cable coming from the amplifier on the distributor) in the area of the air flow meter had disconnected. Reconnected and taped for security, no issues since. This provides a signal to the ECU, if not present it won't fire the injectors.

Rob

[KelWedge]

Fuel gauges jumping up and down is standard, check you have fuel pumping, any idiot jacked the car up recently and part cut the cable to the fuel pump with trolly jack !! that was my problem after I had some tyres changed.

[vampire222]

I'll risk getting laughed at but...

Does the ECU have some kind of error code system, and where is it located?

[350zwelgje]

It has an ECU that is way too old for modern type fault codes/readers (something exists, but 'standard' type of tests of sensors etc. normally do the trick and ignition is independent of ECU). It is located under the dash on top of a flap on the passenger side, where also the relays are located.

Rob

[cello297]

Lean Machine said:

Put some petrol in and try again. The petrol gauge in these cars is not very accurate, it may have run out. I always carry an empty fuel can in the boot in case it runs out. If it's run out of fuel it will take a little while to start because the fuel has to reach the engine. If it still won't start, check that there is a spark at the HT leads. If there is then it must be a fault on the fuel side such as petrol pump or injectors etc. Like any other car you have to decide if it is electrical or fuel fault and take it from there. Did it stall when it was running? Are you sure there is no security system like alarm or engine cut out?
Try a few different things and you might get lucky. Good luck.
Tony.

Or conversely... a full fuel can??

Shane

[honestjohntoo]

vampire222 said:

I'll risk getting laughed at but...

All you need is information, then you'll be the one who is laughing! Click here

The majority of your component locations will be similar to this.

[voltage_maxx]

Interesting, there IS a diagnostic socket! I have seen this on my car and wondered.......

I do further wonder what information comes out of that diagnostic socket and what's needed to read it! Can't imagine it being of a particularly 'high level'.

[honestjohntoo]

voltage_maxx said:

I do further wonder what information comes out of that diagnostic socket and what's needed to read it!

1 Coil Negative, to examine coil and amplifier function, and engine running signal

2 and 3 Hall effect sensor, to measure crank speed (ie - rpm)

4 Coil Positive, to verify 12volt feed to ignition and to measure battery voltage

5 Alternator output voltage, to test regulator and rectifier charging functions

7 A good engine earth, to reference all the above.

Rover dealership workshops certainly had a magic box that did the diagnosis. Never seen one myself.

Mind you, if one had the ability, a voltmeter with tacho function plus an oscilloscope and test procedures would be a fair substitute.

Someone hereabouts may know all this and tell us how?

[plushuit]

vampire222 said:

Got my wedge today and while driving (in rain) it stalled on me and wont start. The noise when restarting is the same as normal only it wont fire up anymore.
So i think it might be out of fuel? Or the fuel pump is dead? Whats the best way to find out, i'm gonna try that tomorrow. The lights/radio/etc all work on the battery and the voltmeter says 11~ volt. I'll obviously also try jumping it. -Not overheated -No forewarning or anything before this

Petrol engines are simple. If you have fuel and spark, combustion happens. If it doesn't, one of them is missing. I have a fuel pressure gauge permanently installed. This not only allows me to trim the fuel pressure (FSE) but at a glance, (with ignition on and the AFM flap deflected) I know which genre of problem I have. Saves a lot of time.

These fellows are right, The first thing you must do is find out which of the two, fuel or spark, you are missing. Of the two, it is easier to check the spark. However, you are not going to see a itsy bitsy tiny blue spark unless you are in a darkened place, ideally with someone else turning the ignition. Remove one of the longer leads, insert a spare plug and prop the lead/plug with the electrode touching the plenum or a valve cover screw (manifolds are often too rusty to provide a decent earth). Then turn over the engine and look for your spark. If you have one, it is a fuel problem, if you don't it is a ignition problem.

What were the symptoms when it stalled? A fuel delivery failure will normally express itself with briefly stumbling running and then stalling. A spark delivery failure can be like that (bad cap or rotor or dying coil) or very sudden (a wire).

BTW, if you have run out of fuel, trying to start the car will do more than simply run down you battery. It will run the fuel pump without fuel. It takes only a little of that to burn out an EFI fuel pump.

l.

P.S. 11 volts is LOW..probably reflecting your attempts to start.