HELP - Trying to get Diff back!
Discussion
Hi guys, have spent all afternoon trying to get my refurbished differential (GKN) back into my Griff (4.3). The car is on axle stands, and because the chassis rails are not as wide as the width of the diff across the drive flanges it is not a strait lift into place with the trolley jack!! I have tried angling it to get up above the rails but it would not quite make it, sliding off the jack at one point (thankfully I had some hi density foam around the area). The only way I can see now is to lift it on its side then once in the space turn it around with one flange over the rail and then slide it across and up? Any ideas please as I want to get it back together tomorrow (Sunday)?
All the best, Pete
All the best, Pete
You need to manipulate it in....
Basically -
start with the diff on its rear and drive flanges facing fore/aft
lift the nose in first and up / over / forwards on the chassis rail
the rear now has clearance to lift into the back of the chassis
lift the rear (still on its side) up into the chassis
then you can tilt & rotate allowing the drive flanges to locate in the chassis.
Once there the drive flanges dont allow the back to fall out - but make sure the nose is kept captive otherwise it will swing down on you like a wrecking ball
Basically -
start with the diff on its rear and drive flanges facing fore/aft
lift the nose in first and up / over / forwards on the chassis rail
the rear now has clearance to lift into the back of the chassis
lift the rear (still on its side) up into the chassis
then you can tilt & rotate allowing the drive flanges to locate in the chassis.
Once there the drive flanges dont allow the back to fall out - but make sure the nose is kept captive otherwise it will swing down on you like a wrecking ball

spend said:
You need to manipulate it in....
Basically -
start with the diff on its rear and drive flanges facing fore/aft
lift the nose in first and up / over / forwards on the chassis rail
the rear now has clearance to lift into the back of the chassis
lift the rear (still on its side) up into the chassis
then you can tilt & rotate allowing the drive flanges to locate in the chassis.
Once there the drive flanges dont allow the back to fall out - but make sure the nose is kept captive otherwise it will swing down on you like a wrecking ball
Spend, cheers mate. I have a pal coming over tomorrow morning to help, so shall use your method, all the best, PeteBasically -
start with the diff on its rear and drive flanges facing fore/aft
lift the nose in first and up / over / forwards on the chassis rail
the rear now has clearance to lift into the back of the chassis
lift the rear (still on its side) up into the chassis
then you can tilt & rotate allowing the drive flanges to locate in the chassis.
Once there the drive flanges dont allow the back to fall out - but make sure the nose is kept captive otherwise it will swing down on you like a wrecking ball

spend said:
You need to manipulate it in....
Basically -
start with the diff on its rear and drive flanges facing fore/aft
lift the nose in first and up / over / forwards on the chassis rail
the rear now has clearance to lift into the back of the chassis
lift the rear (still on its side) up into the chassis
then you can tilt & rotate allowing the drive flanges to locate in the chassis.
Once there the drive flanges dont allow the back to fall out - but make sure the nose is kept captive otherwise it will swing down on you like a wrecking ball
Have successfully refitted the differential today, could not have done it without a friend helping. We used 'Spends' method above (thank you) and a trolley jack with a piece of high density foam on it. A useful tip, to stop the diff dropping down at the front end I used a S/S rod (15mm dia) and pushed it through across the chassis rails and under the 'nose' of the diff, worked a treat and enabled me to carefully lift up the back with the trolley jack to locate the back top mounting. Hopefully get the front mountings all fixed up and prop back tomorrow and when my friend comes over on Tuesday get the exhaust fitted up. PeteBasically -
start with the diff on its rear and drive flanges facing fore/aft
lift the nose in first and up / over / forwards on the chassis rail
the rear now has clearance to lift into the back of the chassis
lift the rear (still on its side) up into the chassis
then you can tilt & rotate allowing the drive flanges to locate in the chassis.
Once there the drive flanges dont allow the back to fall out - but make sure the nose is kept captive otherwise it will swing down on you like a wrecking ball

I've popped mine in/out a couple of times single handed without problems. Taking your time & not rushing with that lump is probably the most important tip 
Quinny advocated using ratchet straps, but I only found them to gall when you tried to turn the diff so were more of a hindrence compared to bars & wood across the chassis. I think it does also depend a bit on which tail there is on your diff - mine is the very large finned version (they literaly wrap around the lower chassis xmember when fitted!).

Quinny advocated using ratchet straps, but I only found them to gall when you tried to turn the diff so were more of a hindrence compared to bars & wood across the chassis. I think it does also depend a bit on which tail there is on your diff - mine is the very large finned version (they literaly wrap around the lower chassis xmember when fitted!).
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