Changing the fuel pump - please check I won't kill myself

[wca]

My V8 has been converted to carbs but is still running the EFI high pressure fuel pump. I am planning on changing the pump and filter tomorrow (subject to weather). Can you just sanity check my work plan to make sure I am not trying anything fatal.

1) Disconnect battery
2) Axle stands under the rear
3) Remove one end of the fuel pipe shown in red nearest the fuel tank to drain the petrol (remember to have something to catch the petrol
4) Remove the old fuel pump (green), fuel filter (blue) and connecting hose.
5) Check the state of the fuel line from filter to engine and replace if required.
6) Stick the new fuel filter and pump where the old ones were and connect with new fuel hose fixed with jubilee clips
7) Leave for a while to let any spilt petrol evaporate and then try to start the engine.
8) Kick back with a beer and smile at a job well done.

Did I miss anything?
Is there anything else useful I could do while the fuel tank is empty?

If I don't add anything more to this thread by 5pm tomorrow you know it either rained or didn't work out that simple. ;-)

[350zwelgje]

Sounds logic and safe.

While at it I would check
- the swirlpot (take it off, rust treat it, check if no soldering/filters are rattling inside: if yes, rattle it out..).
- the fuel lines to the swirlpot as well, especially if they get 'disturbed' in the process.
- all under bonnet fuel line (not much with the carburettor)
- electrical connections to the pump, so it will pump in the right direction.....
Would advise a pre-fuel pump filter to safeguard it and filter the fuel when you put it back in.

Rob

[jmorgan]

Still not done mine but I had a sod of a time getting the hose from the tanks to swirl pot, large diameter pipe. I was working on the assumption I am going to badger that pipe in some way removing the lot so wanted everything there just in case.

Also I have metal outer on some of the pipes and pre sprayed with wd40 and it makes it more flexible for moving.

My swirl pot is rusting, so if it is not salvageable I have the alloy one and pre pump filter ready.

I have all the hose sizes to hand and a large jerry can to catch any fuel left. And three extinguishers.

While I have some of it apart I have buzzed out the wires to the pump and waggled them to make sure they are good. They are good.

[wca]

So clean the purple bit and add the extra filter where the little blue on is. Correct?




Is something like this suitable for the pre-filter (assuming I get it for the right size pipe)?

[350zwelgje]

Yes the pre-filter is in the right location. And the purple is the swirlpot.

You know this, but just as a reminder: to be very, very careful as petrol fumes can ignite so don't smoke , connect anything to the battery or battery chargers in the area, if possible no electrical tools (sparks in it because of the electro motors), inhaling is for addicts that snuff glue as well and the petrol fluid is poison..... Also many people are extra careful during the repair/work but forget all about this, start up the car and if unlucky, he presto a bonfire.....

Rob

[jagracer]

Why not leave the pump and fit a regulator before the carbs?

[wooly350i]

Could do with an inline fuel valve before pre filter and after high pressure filter for easy servicing of filters and pump,got mine from motor spares shop,john.

[jmorgan]

Don't forget, an empty fuel tank is fooking dangerous. If I am going to be fiddling away under there I am going to bung up the holes whilst I measure up.

[The Hatter]

I drained my tank by diconnecting the pipe between the fuel pump and the engine then used the ignition switch to control the fuel as it was being pumped into a can. Saves a sleeve full of fuel, the feed on the tank side of the pump is 1/2 bore and can flow at a fair old rate! You'd need to wedge the air meter flap open on an EFI, no probs with yours as it's been hotwired...

PS. for the 1/2 and 5/8 inch hose use oil cooler hose, it's generally fuel/oil hose (it certainly is when you buy fuel hose from Merlin Motorsport).

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

wca said:

You could replace all the coloured parts, with a 'redtop' fuel pump.
These are a low pressure pump suitable for carbs ratted for over 300 BHP so will provide enough fuel, they also have a built in easy to replace / clean filter.

I use one of these on the racer to feed my swirlpot, that then feeds the injection pump, as I run the car very low, so did not want the swirlpot below the tank.

[GV]

TVRleigh_BBWR said:

wca said:

You could replace all the coloured parts, with a 'redtop' fuel pump.
These are a low pressure pump suitable for carbs ratted for over 300 BHP so will provide enough fuel, they also have a built in easy to replace / clean filter.

I use one of these on the racer to feed my swirlpot, that then feeds the injection pump, as I run the car very low, so did not want the swirlpot below the tank.

I have a Red Top despite being a tad noisy they are good at what they have to do. I also have 2 fuel filters in line before hitting the carb.

[wca]

It has all been fitted and I am not dead yet.

I eventually managed to remove the original swirl chamber, fuel pump and filter.


Cleaned the swirl chamber and painted with rust proofer. Fitted a reducer, an in line valve, an in line filter, a new pump, a new big fuel filter and another valve.


This took far longer than expected but it was my first ever attempt at something more complex than washing the car.

Lessons learnt
1) Tools are never where you put them when you are stuck under the car on a roller tray.
2) Nuts and bolts stick like they never want to be free but once they are free they run away and hide.
3) People in Blackpool have double jointed hands with extra long fingers to reach the various nuts and bolts in TVRs
4) People before me working on TVRs felt one bolt was often enough and the other bolt hole was for ventilation.
5) No, that nut doesn't fit that bolt and the jubilee clip is the wrong size
6) Europarts may only be 5 minutes down the road but it still eats 45 minutes of your time when you have to get the extra bits.
7) No, that nut doesn't fit that bolt and the jubilee clip is the wrong size
8) Europarts may only be 5 minutes down the road but it still eats 45 minutes of your time when you have to get the extra bits.
9) Petrol fumes get better as the day goes on.
10) You can tell the difference between WD40 and Petrol when they drip in your eye
11) No, that nut doesn't fit that bolt and the jubilee clip is the wrong size
12) You can tell the difference between mud and rust when they drip in your eye
13) Europarts may only be 5 minutes down the road but it still eats 45 minutes of your time when you have to get the extra bits.
14) My petrol can doesn't have a pouring nozzle so I can't get any fuel back into the car to test it.
15) Beer is quite nice at the end of the day.

Tomorrow I will put some fuel in the car and see if anything works. Hopefully it won't leak and hopefully if it does the stop valves I added will make it easier.

[jmorgan]

wca said:

I
10) You can tell the difference between WD40 and Petrol when they drip in your eye

12) You can tell the difference between mud and rust when they drip in your eye

I forgot to mention goggles. I usually wear them under the car now when doing certain things, sorry......

[mrzigazaga]

Sounds like your getting into owning a TVR after all..Soon you will be slapping yourself at ever thinking of using it as a donor car!!..You will be smiling in your sleep soon..By the way is that a low pressure fuel pump as im sure you wouldnt need a high pressure filter after the pump..Maybe just another in-line..Just a thought..Keep up the good work..At this rate your'll be coming to the next BBWF..

[wca]

Don't worry, I have learned that one the hard way.

Petrol drip - ow!
I won't stick my head there again.

Spray WD40 to loosen a nut and then slide under to look if it is moving - ow!
Stick some safety glasses on.

Rust falls on the lens and I feel smug until I move and it slide off the glasses and into my eye - ow!

I actually knocked the mud into my eye while removing the safety glasses I was wearing to scratch my nose - ow!

Now why do people refer to me as World Class Accident?

[vampire222]

World class adventurer

[Wedg1e]

wca said:

Don't worry, I have learned that one the hard way.

Petrol drip - ow!
I won't stick my head there again.

Spray WD40 to loosen a nut and then slide under to look if it is moving - ow!
Stick some safety glasses on.

Rust falls on the lens and I feel smug until I move and it slide off the glasses and into my eye - ow!

I actually knocked the mud into my eye while removing the safety glasses I was wearing to scratch my nose - ow!

Now why do people refer to me as World Class Accident?

I find bloody PPE causes more accidents than it prevents. Wear safety specs, stick head in tight space, snag specs, jerk head, ow.

Wear hard hat, approach low hanging pipe or lintel that you just 'know' you'd fit underneath, however hard hat makes you taller... bang, ow.

Wear safety harmess, get tangled up in the fecking thing every two minutes....

And let's not get started on the furgling risk assessments, method statements, safety plan, trained first aider, COSHH, PASMA, confined space, breathing apparatus, MEWP...

When all's said and done, there will have been a shagging sight more said than done...

[jmorgan]

When I am on my back looking up and prodding some chassis I find it does the job admirabley compared to the eyeball self defence which is "argh, ow, rub rub try to sit up bang head bang head... at least that bit felt solid... ow ow....."

[wca]

It might be worth mentioning that my 'safety' glasses were actually a pair of sub glasses I found under the seat while cleaning the interior.

[mrzigazaga]

Health and what?..It takes 100 men to screw a screw in these days..1 to hold it and 99 to turn the wall...Head banging is ok if your playing some heavy metal..But if your head banging heavy metal its a different story!!..This is the way forward!!