Discussion
My Father had an E24 635csi for many, many years. Great car with real road presence.
Anyway, yes rust is probably the biggest issue. Front & rear wings, along with the sills are normally the first places they'll start going.
Also check the auto transmission engages and changes cleanly. The Six can sound a big tappety at idle, but should be silky smooth under load without any smoke.
Anyway, yes rust is probably the biggest issue. Front & rear wings, along with the sills are normally the first places they'll start going.
Also check the auto transmission engages and changes cleanly. The Six can sound a big tappety at idle, but should be silky smooth under load without any smoke.
check out bigcoupe.com for more info, but yes rust is the killer. Get a torch and have a good look at the front inner wings right up at the top and towards the front. Check all jacking points and around the rear lights, sunroof and rear windows. Steering box mounts can crack which would be revealed by vague or notchy feel. If possible check out condition of brake and fuel pipes as they rust. Otherwise be realistic about the age and whatever the mileage is but if its sound and you like it, go for it.
Rust has already been covered. But check. Inner wings (look down the side of the engine) and outer wings, especially around the point where the bumper attaches to the body. Also check sills, around the front & rear screens, around the rear lights, wheel arches etc etc.
Wheels: if it is on the original TRX alloys, consider changing to imperial wheels. Metric tyres are circa £370 plus VAT per corner!
Wheel wobble: get it up to 50-60mph and check for wheel wobble. Very common. Can be a number of things, but control arm bushes was the problem on mine.
Gearbox: if auto, check it works in all modes and check it kicks down as it should.
Ideally, buy one that has been used regularly - the M30 engine is very reliable, but doesn't like not being used.
And obviously, service history - the more the better - ideally by someone who knows their onions.
I'm sure there's loads more, but this will do for starters...
ETA: bigcoupe.com is a mine of information
And this is good too: http://www.unixnerd.demon.co.uk/bmw.html
Wheels: if it is on the original TRX alloys, consider changing to imperial wheels. Metric tyres are circa £370 plus VAT per corner!
Wheel wobble: get it up to 50-60mph and check for wheel wobble. Very common. Can be a number of things, but control arm bushes was the problem on mine.
Gearbox: if auto, check it works in all modes and check it kicks down as it should.
Ideally, buy one that has been used regularly - the M30 engine is very reliable, but doesn't like not being used.
And obviously, service history - the more the better - ideally by someone who knows their onions.
I'm sure there's loads more, but this will do for starters...
ETA: bigcoupe.com is a mine of information
And this is good too: http://www.unixnerd.demon.co.uk/bmw.html
Edited by Gruber on Thursday 8th December 15:24
Gruber said:
...around the point where the bumper attaches to the body...
That's a good point. Get your head under the front of the car and have a good look behind the spoiler / front valance. There's a lot of metal forming box sections and brackets that is largely unprotected from the elements. I would imagine there are a fair number of rust traps here.Similarly, use a torch to inspect behind the headlamps and around the radiator. You can do this from above as well, with the bonnet open.
Not my car is it? Haha mines on ebay finishing in 3 hours.
Highlines (like mine) can be more desirable.
Obviously everyone would like a manual but they are much rarer and therefore much dearer.
Also the auto box on these cars are smooth and a great drive.
As above, rust in the wings is the major issue (inner and outer wings). Also the subframes can snap at the steering box joint. Suspension components need replacing every 4-5 years depending on use. Other than that, one that has been properly looked after, well serviced etc is what you want.
Highlines (like mine) can be more desirable.
Obviously everyone would like a manual but they are much rarer and therefore much dearer.
Also the auto box on these cars are smooth and a great drive.
As above, rust in the wings is the major issue (inner and outer wings). Also the subframes can snap at the steering box joint. Suspension components need replacing every 4-5 years depending on use. Other than that, one that has been properly looked after, well serviced etc is what you want.
bluestreak56 said:
Not my car is it? Haha mines on ebay finishing in 3 hours.
Highlines (like mine) can be more desirable.
Obviously everyone would like a manual but they are much rarer and therefore much dearer.
Also the auto box on these cars are smooth and a great drive.
As above, rust in the wings is the major issue (inner and outer wings). Also the subframes can snap at the steering box joint. Suspension components need replacing every 4-5 years depending on use. Other than that, one that has been properly looked after, well serviced etc is what you want.
Funnily enough - it is! Good to see you're a pistonheader!Highlines (like mine) can be more desirable.
Obviously everyone would like a manual but they are much rarer and therefore much dearer.
Also the auto box on these cars are smooth and a great drive.
As above, rust in the wings is the major issue (inner and outer wings). Also the subframes can snap at the steering box joint. Suspension components need replacing every 4-5 years depending on use. Other than that, one that has been properly looked after, well serviced etc is what you want.
Missed the end of the auction so can't see it now. Did it go?
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