Wing mirror snapped.
Discussion
While trying to re attach my passenger side mirror (after a spot of diy to stop it flapping) the bastard snapped clean off. So now have wing mirror in one hand and a bit of ali sticking out of my door. Anybody a, know where I can get a new one? b, get it sprayed, c, without having to wait 6 months, d how much and e, is their an alternative mirror I can use that will not make the car look like a max-power boy racer mobile.
jamesuk28 said:
While trying to re attach my passenger side mirror (after a spot of diy to stop it flapping) the bastard snapped clean off. So now have wing mirror in one hand and a bit of ali sticking out of my door. Anybody a, know where I can get a new one? b, get it sprayed, c, without having to wait 6 months, d how much and e, is their an alternative mirror I can use that will not make the car look like a max-power boy racer mobile.
I think the mirrors are from a Citroen XM so for speed maybe a trip to a froggy breakers might be best. Remember to save the rubber bands from you're old one
I've got 2 lefts and a right, brand new & unpainted you can strip one down and use the internal parts to repair your own...... saves painting
www.pistonheads.com/sales/detail.asp?i=23755&s=7
>> Edited by wizardofOZ on Tuesday 29th June 12:30
www.pistonheads.com/sales/detail.asp?i=23755&s=7
>> Edited by wizardofOZ on Tuesday 29th June 12:30
Replaced one of mine recently - It's a beggar of a job!
I suggest that you dispense with the self-tapping bolt (you'll never get it tight enough) and drill right through the ally casting in the mirror. Get a 2" long hex head socket bolt (s/s and a few washers, self-locking nut etc.)and bolt right through the 'tripod' and the mirror frame.
You'll still need 'X-ray' vision (even if you remove door panel), a gorilla to assist, universal jointed ratchet with long extension and ratchet ring spanner (for nut inside mirror housing) to get everything tighened up and in the end you'll probably have to use an undersize hex drive to enable you to get the spanners out after you've finished! The angles change as it gets tighter on the 'tripod'!
Honestly- the car's built around the mirrors - I think they were the first bits out of the parts bin! Allow about a day-and-a-half then double it!!
Alternatively you can convert to VW Corrado mirrors - see article on PH!
I suggest that you dispense with the self-tapping bolt (you'll never get it tight enough) and drill right through the ally casting in the mirror. Get a 2" long hex head socket bolt (s/s and a few washers, self-locking nut etc.)and bolt right through the 'tripod' and the mirror frame.
You'll still need 'X-ray' vision (even if you remove door panel), a gorilla to assist, universal jointed ratchet with long extension and ratchet ring spanner (for nut inside mirror housing) to get everything tighened up and in the end you'll probably have to use an undersize hex drive to enable you to get the spanners out after you've finished! The angles change as it gets tighter on the 'tripod'!
Honestly- the car's built around the mirrors - I think they were the first bits out of the parts bin! Allow about a day-and-a-half then double it!!
Alternatively you can convert to VW Corrado mirrors - see article on PH!
I've just this morning finished fitting Corrado mirrors to mine. Actually one was a Tamora, the other a Cerbera but whatever.
From Douglas Valley breakers, and I thought they were kidding when they said they could get me twice what I paid for the Corrado type for my old ones - even if they were busted.
Anyway, other than the wiring (I haven't bothered) they are a lot simpler to fit. The conversion blocks from TVR are rough as, and take a fair bit of rubbing and filling to get acceptable. Also the captive bolts were a bit hit and miss. My mirror bodies stood a good 5mm proud of the blocks with bolts fully tightened. Plenty of judicious Dremel work got them snug, but they weren't straight either so the mirrors git their mounting holes reamed out (ooer). Once a suitable length of 12mm rod was cut and Araldited into the blocks, and the less than perfect fit to the bodywork smoothed out with black sealant, they fitted a treat with a large washer and a nylock nut to hold 'em tight. The mirrors then just screw on, I used a couple of alloy allen bolts which hopefully will be sacrificial in any impacts.
Hassle, not entirely straighforward, but worth it in the end. They look smart.
From Douglas Valley breakers, and I thought they were kidding when they said they could get me twice what I paid for the Corrado type for my old ones - even if they were busted.
Anyway, other than the wiring (I haven't bothered) they are a lot simpler to fit. The conversion blocks from TVR are rough as, and take a fair bit of rubbing and filling to get acceptable. Also the captive bolts were a bit hit and miss. My mirror bodies stood a good 5mm proud of the blocks with bolts fully tightened. Plenty of judicious Dremel work got them snug, but they weren't straight either so the mirrors git their mounting holes reamed out (ooer). Once a suitable length of 12mm rod was cut and Araldited into the blocks, and the less than perfect fit to the bodywork smoothed out with black sealant, they fitted a treat with a large washer and a nylock nut to hold 'em tight. The mirrors then just screw on, I used a couple of alloy allen bolts which hopefully will be sacrificial in any impacts.
Hassle, not entirely straighforward, but worth it in the end. They look smart.
jamesuk28 said:
£240? For a fu ing wing mirror. I think i may go down the ferrari tesstarossa route and make my Chim the single mirror version
Well if it's over £130 for one for my wife's Mazda it's not really a surprise to me that one for a Chim, with a unique door opening mechanism built in, costs that much!
Wake up and smell the coffee. The last "wing mirror" replacement I had was £750, for a Porsche - or was it, well a 944. However that was 12 years ago, and I'm sure things have gone down since then.
Why do so many people who post on here expect £100K performance, for ten bob cost?
Carry on slagging dealers for being expensive and delivering poor service, but take a look in the mirror from time to time and ask, can I afford to run the 12K Chim thats really a 40K sports car???.
All IMHO of course, and I'm sure some property developers out there would disagree, but hey, thats business when they decide to tear the backside out of a deal............ its just the way things are...no hard feelings mate.
Why do so many people who post on here expect £100K performance, for ten bob cost?
Carry on slagging dealers for being expensive and delivering poor service, but take a look in the mirror from time to time and ask, can I afford to run the 12K Chim thats really a 40K sports car???.
All IMHO of course, and I'm sure some property developers out there would disagree, but hey, thats business when they decide to tear the backside out of a deal............ its just the way things are...no hard feelings mate.
Daftlad who rattled your cage anyway? I was only asking about saving a couple of quid seen as I have spent £4000 on the car since september.
Calm down sweetheart and don't get so worked up. Whats the matter did a nasty property developer screw you on a deal, or something?
>> Edited by jamesuk28 on Friday 2nd July 00:05
Calm down sweetheart and don't get so worked up. Whats the matter did a nasty property developer screw you on a deal, or something?
>> Edited by jamesuk28 on Friday 2nd July 00:05
When I snapped my drivers mnirror off, I managed to purchase a new cast stem from my local TVR dealer, who confirmed the shaft is indeed a Citroen item. I can also confirm it is a real pig to fit as the grub screw that retains it to the hump on the door, is hidden between the stem and the trough in the door. I cut an allen key down and then tightened this with a 3.2mm spanner.
>> Edited by oldred on Friday 2nd July 10:25
>> Edited by oldred on Friday 2nd July 10:28
>> Edited by oldred on Friday 2nd July 10:29
>> Edited by oldred on Friday 2nd July 10:25
>> Edited by oldred on Friday 2nd July 10:28
>> Edited by oldred on Friday 2nd July 10:29
oldred said:
When I snapped my drivers mnirror off, I managed to purchase a new cast stem from my local TVR dealer, who confirmed the shaft is indeed a Citroen item. I can also confirm it is a real pig to fit as the grub screw that retains it to the hump on the door, is hidden between the stem and the trough in the door. I cut an allen key down and then tightened this with a 3.2mm spanner.
>> Edited by oldred on Friday 2nd July 10:25
>> Edited by oldred on Friday 2nd July 10:28
>> Edited by oldred on Friday 2nd July 10:29
Nope there's an easier way, push up the collar on the stem, then put a screwdriver across the tripod and the whole thing will uncrew out of the door.
When you've rebuilt/replaced the mirror repeat the process (remember to twist the mirror round on the wire anticlockwise about 10 turns so it unwinds when you screw it in).
If your mirror is in the wrong place when it's tight unscrew it out of the door and adjust the grubscrew/collar left or right acordingly
OZ
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