Wedge master cyls - alternative fitments ?
Discussion
My master cyl, is weeping after puttin new seals in, even though brakes are better.
Almost impossible to get one here in NZ. Could get resleeved, but looking at alternatives
help please on you experiences, hope it's useful to all.
Original fitments
280i, 350i - Cortina 4/5 20.6mm dia = 13/16"
350i SD1 22.2mm
Others that may fit -
Landrover M90 have to mod servo mounting bigger diameter
Capri 2.8i 22.2m dia bigger
Sierra 22.2m dia bigger.
TR6 20.6 13/16" same dia. same as Vixens and M ?
Anything else ?
Almost impossible to get one here in NZ. Could get resleeved, but looking at alternatives
help please on you experiences, hope it's useful to all.
Original fitments
280i, 350i - Cortina 4/5 20.6mm dia = 13/16"
350i SD1 22.2mm
Others that may fit -
Landrover M90 have to mod servo mounting bigger diameter
Capri 2.8i 22.2m dia bigger
Sierra 22.2m dia bigger.
TR6 20.6 13/16" same dia. same as Vixens and M ?
Anything else ?
Thanks Guys.
Have found a place here that will re-sleeve, but they do say there is a small risk the cyl can
crack as a result. They say some types have quite thin castings.
I was trying to correlate all the 'standard' fits for wedges, and some of the alternate solutions
made by the more inventive amongst us....
For those of us in Oz and NZ, there might be slim chance that one of the Falcon master cyls (made by PBR) will fit. If I can confirm this will post it here.
Have found a place here that will re-sleeve, but they do say there is a small risk the cyl can
crack as a result. They say some types have quite thin castings.
I was trying to correlate all the 'standard' fits for wedges, and some of the alternate solutions
made by the more inventive amongst us....
For those of us in Oz and NZ, there might be slim chance that one of the Falcon master cyls (made by PBR) will fit. If I can confirm this will post it here.
Edited by RCK974X on Monday 12th December 08:44
I went down the alternative M/C route and got as far as getting a Land Rover M/C but could not get the Ford Sierra 2.0 brave servo that is required to make the upgrade work - they are getting hard to find unless you want to buy new which then becomes silly money IMO.
I've also had 2 M/Cs crack following the re-sleeving excercise which was a complete waste of money. It is far cheaper to buy new. In the end I bought a new seal kit and did the refurb job on myself before bleeding the system 3 times> I've resigned myself to the fact that to get a decent pedal you need to spend big money when in reality my car always stopped when I needed to!
I've also had 2 M/Cs crack following the re-sleeving excercise which was a complete waste of money. It is far cheaper to buy new. In the end I bought a new seal kit and did the refurb job on myself before bleeding the system 3 times> I've resigned myself to the fact that to get a decent pedal you need to spend big money when in reality my car always stopped when I needed to!
It might be worth having a sniff round this site.
http://www.mk3cortina.com/australia.htm
Mk3, 4 and 5 Cortinas were pretty much identical brakes-wise, other than drum size on larger-engined cars.
http://www.mk3cortina.com/australia.htm
Mk3, 4 and 5 Cortinas were pretty much identical brakes-wise, other than drum size on larger-engined cars.
Thanks again.
The Oz Cortina had the straight six 4.1 engine, photos on the web show a totally different mcyl, which was made by PBR as far as I know. That's something else to check on. The pics show a different kind of servo and mcyl looks quite long, so may be a blind ally.
Bugger to have the mcyl crack up TWICE...but that's why I was trying to get alternates sorted
Will email powertrack today and see if they have one.
One kitcar site suggests a Fiat 124 mcyl might fit (!!)
Any other suggestions for odd fitments ?
The Oz Cortina had the straight six 4.1 engine, photos on the web show a totally different mcyl, which was made by PBR as far as I know. That's something else to check on. The pics show a different kind of servo and mcyl looks quite long, so may be a blind ally.
Bugger to have the mcyl crack up TWICE...but that's why I was trying to get alternates sorted
Will email powertrack today and see if they have one.
One kitcar site suggests a Fiat 124 mcyl might fit (!!)
Any other suggestions for odd fitments ?
grahamw48 said:
Try the S series forum here as well.
I believe owners of those have used substitutes for original.(with Saab servo ?)
Thanks Graham, Yes I did scan that forum, some interesting stuff, and a similar problem I guess to the wedges.I believe owners of those have used substitutes for original.(with Saab servo ?)
I can't help but think that Girling would have made quite a few MC to the same overall pattern, but
it doesn't seem to work out that way !
I couldn't get one in the US and used Apple Hydraulic here to re-sleeve. They did a great job. Shipping would be dear I suppose.
Or re-sleeve locally and see if it takes. If it cracks, you'd be in the same boat with lot of incentive to find a replacement (easy for me to say).
Why are the seals not holding? Is the bore damaged? Mine was a bit pitted. Grady
Or re-sleeve locally and see if it takes. If it cracks, you'd be in the same boat with lot of incentive to find a replacement (easy for me to say).
Why are the seals not holding? Is the bore damaged? Mine was a bit pitted. Grady
Grady said:
... Or re-sleeve locally and see if it takes. If it cracks, you'd be in the same boat with lot of incentive to find a replacement (easy for me to say).
Why are the seals not holding? Is the bore damaged? Mine was a bit pitted. Grady
The brakes work a hell of a lot better than they did before (pedal sinking almost to bulkhead, pump furiously to stop...), but the bore is corroded right up to the old seal line. New seals are very slightly different, so get a slight weep every time brakes are applied, and then a little puddle under the servo. I guess seal isn't quite sitting on clean bore. Have thought about just putting a washer in to space it, but a bit concerned about safety etc...Why are the seals not holding? Is the bore damaged? Mine was a bit pitted. Grady
Does anyone know if pushrod adjustable ?
OK, so I'm up to ....
Original fitments
Pre Wedge, S3 to M ............TR6 ...............20.6mm...13/16
Late M ........................Cortina 4/5........20.6mm...13/16
Early wedge....................Cortina 4/5
Late wedge.....................TR7 - SD1 appears to be the same, but probably isn't
S series 1 ....................Fiesta servo, Sierra MCyl.. 22.2mm
S series 2 ....................SAAB
TR6 MC looks like it might fit to Cortina servo
TR7 MC will probably not fit, as it's Lockheed
Powertrack responded saying they don't have a new mcyl....so not sure what to do now...
Sleeving isn't cheap, Rimmers have a TR6 MC, so I'm wondering if it's worth a try.
Original fitments
Pre Wedge, S3 to M ............TR6 ...............20.6mm...13/16
Late M ........................Cortina 4/5........20.6mm...13/16
Early wedge....................Cortina 4/5
Late wedge.....................TR7 - SD1 appears to be the same, but probably isn't
S series 1 ....................Fiesta servo, Sierra MCyl.. 22.2mm
S series 2 ....................SAAB
TR6 MC looks like it might fit to Cortina servo
TR7 MC will probably not fit, as it's Lockheed
Powertrack responded saying they don't have a new mcyl....so not sure what to do now...
Sleeving isn't cheap, Rimmers have a TR6 MC, so I'm wondering if it's worth a try.
I have a late wedge ('89) and it's standard Ford Cortina (20.6mm). In fact I've just fitted a brand new m/c, about £50 from http://www.brakeparts.co.uk/ . I had a Land Rover defender m/c on before but it makes the pedal too hard. I did source a 2.0 Capri servo in order to upgrade that but fitting it would have involved cutting of the bulkhead, re-routing throttle cable etc. etc. so I resold it on ebay.
I've scouted around the web and found lots of pictures and even a brake catalogue ....and no
obvious matches...
That Saab MC does look very like the Cortina one, apart from those seals for the reservior.
Looks like the cast Sierra one is probably the nearest, if Cortina original can't be sourced.
Can't find any Aussie ones, unless the servo is changed to match.
I did look closely at the VN Commodore, as this is very neat, with pressure limiting valve already incorporated into the MC for 4 wheel disc. It's 15/16 bore, but different bolt spacing.
If I do find an alternate solution, I will let everyone know.
obvious matches...
That Saab MC does look very like the Cortina one, apart from those seals for the reservior.
Looks like the cast Sierra one is probably the nearest, if Cortina original can't be sourced.
Can't find any Aussie ones, unless the servo is changed to match.
I did look closely at the VN Commodore, as this is very neat, with pressure limiting valve already incorporated into the MC for 4 wheel disc. It's 15/16 bore, but different bolt spacing.
If I do find an alternate solution, I will let everyone know.
[quote=RCK974X]I've scouted around the web and found lots of pictures and even a brake catalogue ....and no
obvious matches...
That Saab MC does look very like the Cortina one, apart from those seals for the reservior.
Looks like the cast Sierra one is probably the nearest, if Cortina original can't be sourced.
Can't find any Aussie ones, unless the servo is changed to match.
I did look closely at the VN Commodore, as this is very neat, with pressure limiting valve already incorporated into the MC for 4 wheel disc. It's 15/16 bore, but different bolt spacing.
If I do find an alternate solution, I will let everyone know.
I've looked into this and came to the same conclusions. The big problem is not knowing what would work without shelling out loads on different setups to find the perfect match between pedal firmness, feel and actual stopping power. You could use the setup from a Griff/Chimp as a starting point or go straight to what's being used on a Tuscan/Cerb.
Personally I've never had any brake dramas as such but I made the point when the engine was out last year in changing my whole setup using braided hoses doing away with the copper, chaning the seals in the M/C and using high performance brake fluid on top of the vented discs and 4 pot calipers refurbed from the year before....
obvious matches...
That Saab MC does look very like the Cortina one, apart from those seals for the reservior.
Looks like the cast Sierra one is probably the nearest, if Cortina original can't be sourced.
Can't find any Aussie ones, unless the servo is changed to match.
I did look closely at the VN Commodore, as this is very neat, with pressure limiting valve already incorporated into the MC for 4 wheel disc. It's 15/16 bore, but different bolt spacing.
If I do find an alternate solution, I will let everyone know.
I've looked into this and came to the same conclusions. The big problem is not knowing what would work without shelling out loads on different setups to find the perfect match between pedal firmness, feel and actual stopping power. You could use the setup from a Griff/Chimp as a starting point or go straight to what's being used on a Tuscan/Cerb.
Personally I've never had any brake dramas as such but I made the point when the engine was out last year in changing my whole setup using braided hoses doing away with the copper, chaning the seals in the M/C and using high performance brake fluid on top of the vented discs and 4 pot calipers refurbed from the year before....
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