Before I start hunting for the main fuse...

[unclepockets]

Today I made the schoolboy error of telling somebody how reliable the Chim has been, it rewarded me at lunchtime with reminding me what its battery warning light looks like and all the auxillary gauges have packed up, before I start looking for the main fuse in the dark using a torch would it be worth looking at the fuse box? I'm just a bit confused by the auxillary gauges not working otherwise I'd be tempted to say main fuse straight away (or could this still be possible?)

So the charge rate shows its not charging, the charge light is on constantly and the fuel/oil pressure/time/temp guages don't work, the battery is healthy with plenty of power.

I understand that the main fuse could be anywhere but usually near the starter/engine mount or near the battery itself (I couldnt see anything inside) but where is the normal fusebox located?

[Goaty Bill]

Similar question here a couple days ago;
Big Fuse location.

To summarise, taking into account your post;
If the main fuse goes, the battery dies.
If you pop a new battery in, everything is 'normal' until the batter dies again.
Looks like you have another problem, and heading for the fusebox is probably your first port of call.

There are far better TVR sparkys than me here, but that is a start.

[spend]

unclepockets said:

So the charge rate shows its not charging, the charge light is on constantly and the fuel/oil pressure/time/temp guages don't work, the battery is healthy with plenty of power.

ETA: Don't know why I bother

Edited by spend on Tuesday 13th December 23:47

[unclepockets]

Thanks Spend, if it makes any difference I forgot to mention that my car is a '95 4.0, the charge rate was checked with a multi meter at the battery.

I will check the fuses tomorrow but I've not actually been using the car much over the last few months and I can't recall seeing a fusebox near the battery, just the ECU and relays and the car is now stuck at work so I couldn't look at it after work, is the fusebox likely to be near the battery? for some reason I'm thinking that its behind the passenger seat but not having the car 'to hand' I can't have a quick look.

Thanks for all advice.

[Chimpandtonic]

Back fed bulbs & excited coils

Someone needs to revisit the basics of every automotive charging circuit employed since the 1930's.

The principles are always the same and it's all about something known as "potential difference".

The charge light just indicates a potential difference across the bulb.

Think of the charge light as a pair of balance scales between the ignition circuit and the charging circuit.

If both circuits have the same voltage then there is no potential difference across the bulb and it will not light.

This is irrespective of whether there is 0v on both circuits (ignition off, engine stationary) or 12v on both circuits (14v when charging).

As soon as the smallest potential difference is present between the both sides of the bulb it will start to glow, it will then get brighter as the potential difference increases.

If the two circuits show a potential difference i.e. ignition switched on but engine stationary or ignition switched on and engine running but not charging, then obviously the bulb will light.

This latter condition is clearly a fault which should be investigated before you get stranded.

I can't see how an led or incandescent bulb would make any difference to the ancient & well understood principles of potential difference.

As a matter of cause replace your feeble strip fuse with the more robust midi fuse type and then do a charge test on the alternator for peace of mind.

https://delta.securesslhost.net/~shenglt/catalog/p...

Good luck with it, do the above & I bet your light goes out.

Edited by Chimpandtonic on Tuesday 13th December 23:36

[Ribol]

Chimpandtonic said:

Someone needs to revisit the basics of every automotive charging circuit employed since the 1930's.

If you are going to start a post/sermon with that tone at least know something about the subject.

Cars used to have dynamos, be positive earth, charged DC and had external regulators, then the 70s arrived.

Car then changed to alternators, negative earth, charged AC, had internal regulators and rectifiers - in short nothing like the early days.

But you were right about a bulb having two connections though

[unclepockets]

Well that was fun, spent lunchtime crawling under the car and replacing the old strip fuse with a midi fuse, the old fuse was ok but whilst I was there...

So now the car doesn't start, it started ok then gradually misfired down to nothing and won't start, there is fuel being pumped out (checked the flow) and a spark, I'm stumped now.

Oh and the aux guages and the blower motor don't work and the fuse for that circuit is fine

Think I'll replace the plugs as a couple look a bit iffy.

Edited by unclepockets on Wednesday 14th December 13:55

[M@H]

Hmmm I know you said it was ok, but that does sound like fuel starvation to me - is the rail definately at decent psi?

[unclepockets]

Right with new spark plugs it appears to be running smoothly, a mate checked the charge rate as I didn't have a multi-meter with me and he said its only just charging, he (he's a mechanic but I'm not) seems to think theres an ignition feed issue somewhere behind the dash so the non running appears as I thought it might, to be unconnected with the non-charging fault.

I think I might park the old girl back up, save my pennies towards a nice Leven dash and kill two birds with one stone when the weather is more agreeable