heater control valve

[ausi steve]

My 1976 3000m's Smiths remote heater valve needs repairing as it leaks, any suggestions as to where the parts can be sourced from or do I need a new valve complete, if so where can I obtain one?
Are the internals of other Smiths valves transferable into my valve body?
I live in Perth West Aust where TVR's are rare so I need PH help at times.
Cheers

[ATE399J]

Does it look like this?

http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?q=triumph+heater+va...

Then you have your answer. But the best bet is to contact Steve Read or Adrian Venn and I'm sure they'll be able to sent you the correct bit

[phillpot]

ausi steve said:

remote heater valve

This one is a popular alternative on the later S Series cars and I've fitted one on my Taimar rather than the flappy thing that's supposed to divert air passed or through the heater radiator

Or there's this one?

[RCK974X]

There's several Smiths ones from Triumphs, Leylands, old Land Rover etc, probably any will work. I think they are all cable operated, and for 1/2" (ish) pipe. Some are threaded on one side (Triumph Saloons and TR4,5,6).

You may even find one in older Holdens, inside the heater box ?

Fords tended to block off the matrix rather than use a valve (at least from what I remember !)

I've only ever taken one apart and it would not seal afterwards... get a whole unit, it's a lot less messing about.

Edited by RCK974X on Thursday 15th December 20:49

[Adrian@]

phillpot said:

This one is a popular alternative on the later S Series cars and I've fitted one on my Taimar rather than the flappy thing that's supposed to divert air passed or through the heater radiator

Or there's this one?

Mike, Neither the Taimar or S has a heater valve....but given that you have added one you might need to add some kind of restricted by-pass (as the M has) to allow water flow through the auto choke once this is switched off, or that will not operate and the engine will close down. The 'flappy' thing will need the foam sealing strips replacing and the heater control cable setting correctly (to enable a fully closing off of any air that might by-pass the matrix which then forms a dilution of warm air) to get proper hot air. For most people the main issue is of poor air flow (which I know you have done my conversion for a heater motor which is almost a must these days) that said sealing the OE motor system is almost impossible.
Adrian@

And as with most things I have the exactly the correct valve if the OP wants exactly the original.

[phillpot]

Adrian@ said:

Neither the Taimar or the S has a heater valve......

....... to allow water flow through the auto choke once this is switched off

My S has one and every other S i've seen (we are talking S Series not 3000S or Vixen S)

That's if you've still got an "auto choke"

Edited by phillpot on Friday 16th December 09:49

[Adrian@]

phillpot said:

My S has one and every other S i've seen (we are talking S Series not 3000S or Vixen S)

That's if you've still got an "auto choke"

I tried to be clear (and I thought you were too, in your referring to the later S Series) BUT THEN you bounce up with My S...... on the classic forum !!....me tooooo
Adrian@
Don't get me on to getting rid of auto chokes either...they are the simplest of system to understand and work prefectly well with a couple of minutes setting up ...unless a silly filter is added.
ALMOST as easy as getting the heater system working correctly !!

Steve, I have replied to your mail..

Edited by Adrian@ on Friday 16th December 11:46

[RCK974X]

Steve,


As a past master of the "kit car fixup job", If you can't find a valve in the short term, you can use a 1/2" washing machine plumbing valve. They are typically 1/4 turn on-off ball valve type.

Not pretty, not permanent, but it will give you a working solution.

Only other suggestion is a happy few hours down the scrappers/junkyard taking heaters to bits.

[ausi steve]

Thanks to all who replied, AV is going to supply a replacement in the new year.