Replacing the starter motor...
Discussion
In a coupe of weekends time I shall be teaming up with my brother-in-law to replace my starter motor on my '98 Chim. Ever since I bought the car this time last year, she's had hot-start issues, especially when been stuck in traffic. And as I live in Central London, this is quite often! 
So, have got a new starter motor on order from www.paddockspares.com - £44 + VAT and p&P - bargain! Need to get the heat shielding ordered from mod-wise, and then the weekend after next we shall be changing them over.
Have read through the procedure in the bible, and my b-i-l knows what he's doing as he's an engineer, and is curently in the process of rebuilding an old motor bike - a Triton I believe.
So, any additional advise from anyone who has done this? All advise very welcome.
Cheers,
Ropey
So, have got a new starter motor on order from www.paddockspares.com - £44 + VAT and p&P - bargain! Need to get the heat shielding ordered from mod-wise, and then the weekend after next we shall be changing them over.
Have read through the procedure in the bible, and my b-i-l knows what he's doing as he's an engineer, and is curently in the process of rebuilding an old motor bike - a Triton I believe.
So, any additional advise from anyone who has done this? All advise very welcome.
Cheers,
Ropey
Well as Paddock seem to be a Landy specialist, the 1st thing for you have to worry about is 'is it going to fit'
I had a falling out with a local Landy parts bloke when I was after a new startermotor a few years ago, I even had the old one in my hand, told him I wanted one the same and he ordered one, he wasn't very happy when it arrived and on close inspection the bolt holes weren't even in the same place
The next nightmare you come up against is getting to the little bugger, unless you have a pit or a lift we found you had to jack the front up, axle stand the front, then jack the back up and axle stand that, you can then get under to the middle of the car
Then you've got to get it off, mine (remember this is TVR we're talking about so things can change) was held on with 3 allen head bolts and due to access a whole range of socketset/allen key/adaptors had to be used to get anywhere near the bolt heads
GOOD LUCK
I had a falling out with a local Landy parts bloke when I was after a new startermotor a few years ago, I even had the old one in my hand, told him I wanted one the same and he ordered one, he wasn't very happy when it arrived and on close inspection the bolt holes weren't even in the same place
The next nightmare you come up against is getting to the little bugger, unless you have a pit or a lift we found you had to jack the front up, axle stand the front, then jack the back up and axle stand that, you can then get under to the middle of the car
Then you've got to get it off, mine (remember this is TVR we're talking about so things can change) was held on with 3 allen head bolts and due to access a whole range of socketset/allen key/adaptors had to be used to get anywhere near the bolt heads
GOOD LUCK
I agree with raceboy.
One of the biggest issues is access. We managed to change it on my griff by just jacking the front up. However a LARGE selection of sockets, externder bars, joints and replacement knuckels will be required.
Apart from access it is a very easy job.
All the best.
Lake
One of the biggest issues is access. We managed to change it on my griff by just jacking the front up. However a LARGE selection of sockets, externder bars, joints and replacement knuckels will be required.
Apart from access it is a very easy job.
All the best.
Lake
Cheers chaps.
Interesting development here....
Just spoken to David at mod-wise, who said it might not be the starter motor at all! He had the same issue on his Griff and it turned out to be the wiring between the immoboliser and the starter motor. Aparently this is crap TVR wiring, and can't cope with the required current when hot!
When talking to my b-i-l last weekend he also thought it was odd, as the starter motor is nowhere near the exaust on my car, it runs down the other side. So he couldn't understand where the heat-soak was coming from.
Anyone else had this issue - and found the soluition to be wiring rather than the general perception of a knackered starter motor?
Anyway, David is meant to be sending me an explanation and how to rewire that bit in an email, so I will post it up when I receive it.
Bu**er - I hope Paddock Spares will take my starter motor back??
Cheers,
Ropey
Interesting development here....
Just spoken to David at mod-wise, who said it might not be the starter motor at all! He had the same issue on his Griff and it turned out to be the wiring between the immoboliser and the starter motor. Aparently this is crap TVR wiring, and can't cope with the required current when hot!
When talking to my b-i-l last weekend he also thought it was odd, as the starter motor is nowhere near the exaust on my car, it runs down the other side. So he couldn't understand where the heat-soak was coming from.
Anyone else had this issue - and found the soluition to be wiring rather than the general perception of a knackered starter motor?
Anyway, David is meant to be sending me an explanation and how to rewire that bit in an email, so I will post it up when I receive it.
Bu**er - I hope Paddock Spares will take my starter motor back??
Cheers,
Ropey
Changed mine for one of them a while back,
I pretty quick at the starter change now. had them on and off a few times
Easiest with two of you, Get car on axle stands on front, or up a ramp. Disconnect Battery - Bottom bolt)(maybe allen key type or bolthead) easy to do.
Teh top one is where you need a friend, use a combination of socket extensions and an elbow joint for it also, get the friend to guide you to teh bolt from through the top of the engine. Wrap new one in heat difflector reverse procedure to put new one back.
Although the paddock one is shorter so easier to put back.
BB
I pretty quick at the starter change now. had them on and off a few times
Easiest with two of you, Get car on axle stands on front, or up a ramp. Disconnect Battery - Bottom bolt)(maybe allen key type or bolthead) easy to do.
Teh top one is where you need a friend, use a combination of socket extensions and an elbow joint for it also, get the friend to guide you to teh bolt from through the top of the engine. Wrap new one in heat difflector reverse procedure to put new one back.
Although the paddock one is shorter so easier to put back.
BB
They do die quite easily..
Replacement will be OK if you use the Prestolite RTC6061N unit. This has two lucas connections - use the larger one.
You need 2 x 6" extensions and a 8mm IIRC hex bit.
Use both extensions for the top bolt and only one for the bottom.
Do NOT use the heat shield for 2 reasons if it moves it can cause sparks as it's got a foil coating and can therefore start a fire and secondly it'll only help to retain the heat longer.
I replaced mine with this unit - turns faster and all OK - after a few months it was starting to turn extremely slow when hot. I've now added a 2M+ length of
10mm braided cable. This I've routed direct from the battery terminal to the bottom flange bolt mounting on the starter. Not a perfect solution but definately an improvement.
Good luck.
Replacement will be OK if you use the Prestolite RTC6061N unit. This has two lucas connections - use the larger one.
You need 2 x 6" extensions and a 8mm IIRC hex bit.
Use both extensions for the top bolt and only one for the bottom.
Do NOT use the heat shield for 2 reasons if it moves it can cause sparks as it's got a foil coating and can therefore start a fire and secondly it'll only help to retain the heat longer.
I replaced mine with this unit - turns faster and all OK - after a few months it was starting to turn extremely slow when hot. I've now added a 2M+ length of
10mm braided cable. This I've routed direct from the battery terminal to the bottom flange bolt mounting on the starter. Not a perfect solution but definately an improvement.
Good luck.
5ltr-chim said:
Do NOT use the heat shield for 2 reasons if it moves it can cause sparks as it's got a foil coating and can therefore start a fire and secondly it'll only help to retain the heat longer.
I replaced mine with this unit - turns faster and all OK - after a few months it was starting to turn extremely slow when hot. I've now added a 2M+ length of
10mm braided cable. This I've routed direct from the battery terminal to the bottom flange bolt mounting on the starter. Not a perfect solution but definately an improvement.
Good luck.
My Heat shield is held in place nicely with Ligorretes(sp?) so no chance of touching said wires..
Must say mine does seem to spin slower when hot.. was thinking of doing like you and uprateing the cable, where did u source some from, Halfrauds.
BB
Ballistic Banana said:
Do NOT use the heat shield for 2 reasons if it moves it can cause sparks as it's got a foil coating and can therefore start a fire and secondly it'll only help to retain the heat longer.
I replaced mine with this unit - turns faster and all OK - after a few months it was starting to turn extremely slow when hot. I've now added a 2M+ length of
10mm braided cable. This I've routed direct from the battery terminal to the bottom flange bolt mounting on the starter. Not a perfect solution but definately an improvement.
Good luck.
My Heat shield is held in place nicely with Ligorretes(sp?) so no chance of touching said wires..
Must say mine does seem to spin slower when hot.. was thinking of doing like you and uprateing the cable, where did u source some from, Halfrauds.
BB
Vehicle Wiring Products is your best bet for electrical bits, cable etc.... 01159 305454.
Ian
Doubt if it's any use to you but it was : Thames Valley Electro Diesel - Hyperion Way , Reading as most places like halfwits only sell short ready made lengths.
- checking receipt it was 8mm (get 3M minimum). Ensure you attach the ends well - mine felt as if I'd soldered them ok but after a lot of struggling to get through an existing grommet in the bulkhead I had to resolder in situ with blowtorch and plumbers solder!.
Just to finish off this thread too - I took David Beer's advise (and kit that he sent me!) and did a touch of rewiring on Saturday, rather than replacing the starter motor.
David can probably give a better explanation, but basically, wired in a relay into the starter wiring in the passenger footwell, allowing the ignition to switch the relay, which then lets current pass directly from the battery to the starter motor.
The rewiring itself was very easy, and took about 5 minutes.
As much as I could test this on Saturday I did, but not entirely convinced I got it hot enough. I guess the real test is when I go to France this weekend. Fingers crossed this has sorted the hot-start issue!
Thanks David for getting the kit to me so quickly, and for explaining things about 16 times! You are a true gent.
Will let you all know if it worked in a couple of weeks time.
Cheers,
Ropey
David can probably give a better explanation, but basically, wired in a relay into the starter wiring in the passenger footwell, allowing the ignition to switch the relay, which then lets current pass directly from the battery to the starter motor.
The rewiring itself was very easy, and took about 5 minutes.
As much as I could test this on Saturday I did, but not entirely convinced I got it hot enough. I guess the real test is when I go to France this weekend. Fingers crossed this has sorted the hot-start issue!
Thanks David for getting the kit to me so quickly, and for explaining things about 16 times! You are a true gent.
Will let you all know if it worked in a couple of weeks time.
Cheers,
Ropey
ropey said:
Just to finish off this thread too - I took David Beer's advise (and kit that he sent me!) and did a touch of rewiring on Saturday, rather than replacing the starter motor.
David can probably give a better explanation, but basically, wired in a relay into the starter wiring in the passenger footwell, allowing the ignition to switch the relay, which then lets current pass directly from the battery to the starter motor.
The rewiring itself was very easy, and took about 5 minutes.
As much as I could test this on Saturday I did, but not entirely convinced I got it hot enough. I guess the real test is when I go to France this weekend. Fingers crossed this has sorted the hot-start issue!
Thanks David for getting the kit to me so quickly, and for explaining things about 16 times! You are a true gent.
Will let you all know if it worked in a couple of weeks time.
Cheers,
Ropey
did it work Ropey? or was it the starter in the end?
Cheers
Nik
www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?t=114186&f=13&h=0 Thats where the reply WAS. Hope this worked as it my first "copy link jobbie, if not im sure someone can help.
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