E30 M3 - buying guides/info?
Discussion
An E30 M3 is a scratch i need to itch at some point, i've heard about S14net and E30 zone, but are there any good buyers guides available ?(dont mind buying a re-print)
a few questions also spring to mind if anyone can help
road tax- how much per annum?
structural rot- any major probs with them?
any electrical gremlins or expensive issues to be wary of ?, obviously assuming no engine woes etc.
would only be a summer road toy, low mileage use, no trackday use needed, i cant see these cars getting cheaper though only gaining value for nice ones so dont want to hang around too long wishing!
a few questions also spring to mind if anyone can help
road tax- how much per annum?
structural rot- any major probs with them?
any electrical gremlins or expensive issues to be wary of ?, obviously assuming no engine woes etc.
would only be a summer road toy, low mileage use, no trackday use needed, i cant see these cars getting cheaper though only gaining value for nice ones so dont want to hang around too long wishing!
its not about the performance, have liked them since the good old days when they were new and also in touring cars! its a classic and something to polish/summer runs thats all. have a 900kg T70 replica with about 450-500bhp for speed! have always liked classic cars, and of its era it certainly is one.
driving one would be a start though, not bad advice, ideally a good un so i can compare to anything thats out there. seen some at 5k, seen some at 50k, bound to be a world of difference in them with those prices.
driving one would be a start though, not bad advice, ideally a good un so i can compare to anything thats out there. seen some at 5k, seen some at 50k, bound to be a world of difference in them with those prices.
i've had a 530d sport which handled beautifully for a large car, as all the reports said it would, and the E30 M3 always had great reviews of its handling. performance- its 20-25yrs old technology so wont be anything like a modern car. 2-3k miles a yr in summer would do me, and maintaining it to a decent standard to keep its value where possible. wouldnt say no to something that had undergone refurbishment if needed, and pay a little more for quality rather than buying a dog needing thousands spent.
GarryA said:
I've owned both so feel qualified to do so.
Really? Stick to the diesel would be my advise so. Btw, I've driven both, even when the M3 was new too and neither are comparable bar the fact that both carry a roundel on the bonnet, thus my original comment. So what a diesel modern or otherwise has got to do with buying an E30 M3 is beyond me.
What I was saying was that people get carried away with the hype by Evo mag / YouTube etc etc spend a shed load of money on one and the cars really are not all that.
A Sport Evo is probably worth having but then they are as much as a GT3 911 so you'd really have to want one.
O/P if you go for one, get it fully checked out by a body shop as the major rot will be under the bodykit and wheel arch liners so get it endoscoped. Sills, wing bottoms, slam panels, floor, boot (number plate area), battery tray (in boot)
Check the passenger side inner wing as the exhaust manifold runs close to it and can burn the paint off leading to rot.
Engines quite good, check coolant system (2 speed fan) and heater matrix / solenoid in cab as can leak all over carpet, sump gaskets can fail, the heavy plenum can force the throttle bodies away from the head leading to idling and over run issues (upgrade to M5 gaskets) ignore scare stories of the cam chain snapping at 100k miles, listen for it, it should have been upgraded to e36 tensioner anyway.
Exhaust system if original (they can last 20yrs) is £2k. Eisenmann make a nice one, so do Supersprint.
The electrics are not a problem, if any, the over complex window / headlight washer system if specced. (washer electrics pack up and the wipers seize).
A Sport Evo is probably worth having but then they are as much as a GT3 911 so you'd really have to want one.
O/P if you go for one, get it fully checked out by a body shop as the major rot will be under the bodykit and wheel arch liners so get it endoscoped. Sills, wing bottoms, slam panels, floor, boot (number plate area), battery tray (in boot)
Check the passenger side inner wing as the exhaust manifold runs close to it and can burn the paint off leading to rot.
Engines quite good, check coolant system (2 speed fan) and heater matrix / solenoid in cab as can leak all over carpet, sump gaskets can fail, the heavy plenum can force the throttle bodies away from the head leading to idling and over run issues (upgrade to M5 gaskets) ignore scare stories of the cam chain snapping at 100k miles, listen for it, it should have been upgraded to e36 tensioner anyway.
Exhaust system if original (they can last 20yrs) is £2k. Eisenmann make a nice one, so do Supersprint.
The electrics are not a problem, if any, the over complex window / headlight washer system if specced. (washer electrics pack up and the wipers seize).
Edited by GarryA on Monday 19th December 21:40
Op, I was looking for one back in '05 and failed to get the car I wanted at a price I was happy to pay, now even more difficult as prices have increased by what seems like a 100%. My advise is do buy one if that's what you want, a true classic if there ever was one. But buy the very best you can afford and don't be put off buying an early standard 200bhp car as they offer the best value imo. Join the relevant clubs too, there you just may find right car for your budget.
GarryA said:
What I was saying was that people get carried away with the hype by Evo mag / YouTube etc etc spend a shed load of money on one and the cars really are not all that.
A Sport Evo is probably worth having but then they are as much as a GT3 911 so you'd really have to want one.
O/P if you go for one, get it fully checked out by a body shop as the major rot will be under the bodykit and wheel arch liners so get it endoscoped. Sills, wing bottoms, slam panels, floor, boot (number plate area), battery tray (in boot)
Check the passenger side inner wing as the exhaust manifold runs close to it and can burn the paint off leading to rot.
Engines quite good, check coolant system (2 speed fan) and heater matrix / solenoid in cab as can leak all over carpet, sump gaskets can fail, the heavy plenum can force the throttle bodies away from the head leading to idling and over run issues (upgrade to M5 gaskets) ignore scare stories of the cam chain snapping at 100k miles, listen for it, it should have been upgraded to e36 tensioner anyway.
Exhaust system if original (they can last 20yrs) is £2k. Eisenmann make a nice one, so do Supersprint.
The electrics are not a problem, if any, the over complex window / headlight washer system if specced. (washer electrics pack up and the wipers seize).
thats helpful thanks. are they generally rotten if used regularly in the uk? ideally one thats not seen uk winter road use would be a priority! what about one from the US of A? loads for sale on s14net that have been in drier climes! dont know if you could get one onto uk roads easily tho.
A Sport Evo is probably worth having but then they are as much as a GT3 911 so you'd really have to want one.
O/P if you go for one, get it fully checked out by a body shop as the major rot will be under the bodykit and wheel arch liners so get it endoscoped. Sills, wing bottoms, slam panels, floor, boot (number plate area), battery tray (in boot)
Check the passenger side inner wing as the exhaust manifold runs close to it and can burn the paint off leading to rot.
Engines quite good, check coolant system (2 speed fan) and heater matrix / solenoid in cab as can leak all over carpet, sump gaskets can fail, the heavy plenum can force the throttle bodies away from the head leading to idling and over run issues (upgrade to M5 gaskets) ignore scare stories of the cam chain snapping at 100k miles, listen for it, it should have been upgraded to e36 tensioner anyway.
Exhaust system if original (they can last 20yrs) is £2k. Eisenmann make a nice one, so do Supersprint.
The electrics are not a problem, if any, the over complex window / headlight washer system if specced. (washer electrics pack up and the wipers seize).
thats helpful thanks. are they generally rotten if used regularly in the uk? ideally one thats not seen uk winter road use would be a priority! what about one from the US of A? loads for sale on s14net that have been in drier climes! dont know if you could get one onto uk roads easily tho.
Edited by GarryA on Monday 19th December 21:40
Johnboy Mac said:
Op, I was looking for one back in '05 and failed to get the car I wanted at a price I was happy to pay, now even more difficult as prices have increased by what seems like a 100%. My advise is do buy one if that's what you want, a true classic if there ever was one. But buy the very best you can afford and don't be put off buying an early standard 200bhp car as they offer the best value imo. Join the relevant clubs too, there you just may find right car for your budget.
club/forum you'd recommend? if you were buying now, and looking for something rot free/or at least sorted *(major rust work is my main fear along with engine rebuild cost) what sort of budget is realistic to get a decent car as opposed to someone elses project?i also think that something reasonably standard and pristine is a long term value car, might not go up a vast amount but also shouldnt lose any value which would be nice.
You shouldn't be having to rebuild the engine if its been looked after. They can slap at bit at cold but thats ok, being left idling is not good as petrol seeps past the bores into the sump, it looks like the oil os not going down but its actually filling up ever so slowly with fuel.
Unless you buy one that you know is good, you will s
t yourself when you take the bumpers, sideskirts, wings and interior carpet out I guarantee it.
If the scuttle has ever been blocked in the past (elephants trunk) then you will find the sound deadening soaked behind the dash that will have then started to rot out the firewall.
Unless you buy one that you know is good, you will s
t yourself when you take the bumpers, sideskirts, wings and interior carpet out I guarantee it. If the scuttle has ever been blocked in the past (elephants trunk) then you will find the sound deadening soaked behind the dash that will have then started to rot out the firewall.
When I restored My Sport Evo, It was because the scuttle panel was rotten. The more you dig the deeper the problem.
The rear portion of my front wheel arch (where it meets the sill) were rotten also.
The only way you will find this is by removing the sill extension and front wing, and then poke with a screwdriver through the seem sealer(the devils work that stuff) hides a multitude of sins.
Check number plate lights for rust, rear arches etc.... All the usual stuff for a 20 year old car as you would imagine.
The engines are almost bullet proof. Just make sure they have been serviced regularly, like any engine.
Ask the owner if he has ragged it prior to the oil temp reaching 75 degrees centigrade. This is the optimum temp before you should redline them.
Buy on condition rather than mileage. Check panel lines for signs of accident damage, a lot will have seen a ditch or two in their time.
Prices are subjective...
£10k< will be on the ropey side to say the least
£12k> will be needing some remedial work doing soon rather than later.
£15k> will be ok
£20k> Your into the EVOII models
£30k> Sport Evo models
Just my humble opinion you understand. Others may differ.
The rear portion of my front wheel arch (where it meets the sill) were rotten also.
The only way you will find this is by removing the sill extension and front wing, and then poke with a screwdriver through the seem sealer(the devils work that stuff) hides a multitude of sins.
Check number plate lights for rust, rear arches etc.... All the usual stuff for a 20 year old car as you would imagine.
The engines are almost bullet proof. Just make sure they have been serviced regularly, like any engine.
Ask the owner if he has ragged it prior to the oil temp reaching 75 degrees centigrade. This is the optimum temp before you should redline them.
Buy on condition rather than mileage. Check panel lines for signs of accident damage, a lot will have seen a ditch or two in their time.
Prices are subjective...
£10k< will be on the ropey side to say the least
£12k> will be needing some remedial work doing soon rather than later.
£15k> will be ok
£20k> Your into the EVOII models
£30k> Sport Evo models
Just my humble opinion you understand. Others may differ.
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