Brake pad part numbers

[R0162]

I did a search but came up with nothing, can anybody please tell me some part numbers for the Pagid and the Ferrodo brake pads.
In case i can not source them are there any other options, which are similarly as good.

[Craighb]

I've recently changed mine to EBC Red Stuff pads - they have been good for road/fast road use so far.
Front Pads DP3036C
Rear Pads DP3043C

[XLRONYX]

I started a thread asking about the right Ferodo number a while back, but it didn't generate any solid leads. Based on the catalog picture and dimensions I thought FRP3083 looked like the right part number.

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

Jeff

[Hollowpockets]

I just bought the Pagids from Jetstream, you can buy them direct from pagids website which has them listed under noble m12, Jetstream are can do a better price though.

[5paulmv]

fitted with ebc yellows all round they work great bear in mind my car has no brake servos fitted so feel is all at pedal

[R0162]

i have yellowstuff fitted at the moment, the stopping power is good but nothing to impress, thats why i am looking at pagids and Ferrodo.

[R0162]

I went on to the Pagid website, they only have pads for the 2.5 listed up to year 2002, are they the same pads on a 2004 3R?

[coolchris]

I ordered some of these for my 2.5.When I got them they were nothing like the pads in the car they had no bracket with the holes at the top for the pins to go through.
Apparantly the very early cars used a different pad set up.So the ones they list will not fit your car.I have found a company that do a good rate on ferodo 2500s only £15 more for a set than yellowstuff.they are called camskill (front pads number is FRP3083H rears are FRP3083HS.Hope that helps

cheers
Chris

[R0162]

That is a great help Chris, thank you..i think i will go for the Ferrodo then, seems they are a lot cheaper and still very good for the cars which are focussed for road use with the odd track day.
I assume the performance will still be a big step up from the yellow stuff? i found with the yellow stuff that the initial bite is quite weak, you have to apply plenty of pressure to get any real performance out of them but if i put too much pressure they just lock up.

[R0162]

Out of interest, is it ok to have Ds2500 on the front and yellow stuff on the rear, or is it not adviseable?
I assume the front brakes do more than the rear with regards to stopping, so i'm assuming tht its more important to have better pads on the front, or is it the other way round?

[coolchris]

Hi Chris

All the reports I have heard on the ferodos have been really good.As you know I asked for the opinions of yellowstuff on here some say there good others say dont go there but I have heard nothing but good feedback on the ferodos.
I think you will find that they will wear less than the yellowstuff and it says on the camskill site that there is no bedding in process just put in and drive as normal.If you go on to the site click on the products section then you will see a search bar top right hand side just put in the part number and it will come up with the pads.
With regards to having different pads at each end I dont know what difference it makes to be honest at the end of the day some people have different brands of tyres at each end somaybe it would be ok to have the ferodos on the front and yellowstuff on back?

Chris

[R0162]

Cheers again Chris, when i phoned camskill they asked me if my name was Chris, i was like wtf.. then i realised they thought i was you..

Can anybody else confirm if its ok to run Ferrodo DS2500 on the front and EBc yellowstuff on the back? I would be interested in finding out the science behind it, i.e if it works or why it would not work.

[anotherdom]

Yes, it would work however the compounds will provide different mu (coeffecient of friction) at different temperatures and your brake balance will shift as temperatures change. That's the theory, but I'm not convinced you'll feel this on the road?

Dom.

[R0162]

Cheers for that info Dom, thats what i'm wondering with regards to one set of pads working differently to the others with regards to heat and bite etc.. whats on my mind is that i was thinking that the front brakes word harder than the backs, so in effect the fronts would get hotter faster, and therefore using the same pads front and back the fronts may be at optimal temp/friction but the backs may not, or vice versa, the backs are running optimally but the fronts are too hot.
As i always do i like to find out how things work and somtimes try different things to get a bit of real world data, tahts why i was playing with the theory of yellowstuff on the back and Ds2500 front, i am wondering is having different pads front and back may actually work better than the same all round. so i'm going to give it a try, It also works cheaper for me because i already have the yellowstuff on the back which are bed in..lol

Just wondered if anybody had tried anything like this before, i.e. Ds3000 front and Ds2500 rear etc..

[playalistic]

A lot of people with big break upgrades to front axle only usually run a different and more agressive rear pad to help with the balance. I'd recommend having a read of this (and some of the other theory) stuff at Stoptech:

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technica...

[R0162]

Thanks for that info, that helps explain a lot, i think i understand how it all works now.

So when you brake more weight transfers to the front, meaning that the back gets light, having too much braking force on the back when it is in this temporary light condition is what causes the brakes to lock up, and likewise the front can accept much greater braking force without locking up due to the additional weight.

So it is a matter of getting that balance, it seems that if you improve the deceleration in general, then even more weight is transfered to the front, meaning that it would be more important to have better braking torque on the front and less braking torque on the back, so if i am not mistaken my theory on having better pads front than rear may be well founded.

Now i have read that article it explains why i was getting lockup on the rear wheels, the brake balance is out, under heavy braking there was too much braking torque on the rear wheels in relation to the weight over the rear wheels, or maybe the yellowstuff are just prone to lock up with their progressive bite and higher compressibility demanding more force at the pedal.

In theory it seems the combination may work, the DS2500 are less compressible material and offer better initial bite so less pedal force needed, wheraes the yellowstuff which are more compressible demand more pedal force and will be producing less braking torque in relation. Theory aside I will give it a go and see how it translates to real world data.