Baffled!!

[lazysprite]

Trying to refit the fuel tank in my Vixen S3 and I have found an ominous rattling noise from inside! Peering in through the fuel sender hole it appears a baffle is free to flop about inside.
I'd like to refix it to avoid it interfering with the sender float.. So how do I do this?

The tank hasn't been filled for at least 10 years, so grinding and welding is an option. My current plan is to cut an "inspection hole" in the top of the tank, Reattach the baffle - probably by brazing or blind rivets then put a closing panel back on top and smother the whole lot in a sealant.
My question is; where should the baffle fit relative to the stiffening "dinks" that run around the tank?
The inspection hole also means I can possibly treat the insides of the tank with some sort of anti-rust treatment and hoover any swarf out that falls in during cutting the hole. I could even fit an in-tank pump for the Fuel injection if I can find a bolt in part!
Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

[phillpot]

I've no doubt there are people who will weld used fuel tanks but, as a young apprentice mechanic technician, I had it drummed into me that you never ever weld a fuel tank no matter how long its been empty or how well its been cleaned/flushed.

I'd stick to screws and rivets (or make sure all my insurance is up to date)

[Hullygully]

Hi,
I had a new tank made for my Vixen S2 this summer - it's a fantastic(aluminium)replica of the original, and fitted immediately without fannying around - all for £200. Is it really worth messing around trying to fix an old tank? I'm sure there must be an engineer in your locality with the right skills and attitude to solve the problem....?

Mark

[RCK974X]

MY old tank was like that, with one baffle sat in the bottom of the tank....I got a new ally one from DG, when buying other stuff.

DANGER DANGER WILL ROBINSON !!!

Welding a used fuel tank is VERY VERY dodgy....
If you must however, (almost) fill it with sand and a little water before welding.

[Slow M]

RCK974X said:

MY old tank was like that, with one baffle sat in the bottom of the tank....I got a new ally one from DG, when buying other stuff.

DANGER DANGER WILL ROBINSON !!!

Welding a used fuel tank is VERY VERY dodgy....
If you must however, (almost) fill it with sand and a little water before welding.

I was taught to fill with water, almost up to the point of torch work. Most tanks can be soldered, after that.

I'd hate to be the one to have to get all of the sand out.

Jus' sayin'.

Best,
B.

[GAjon]

If your going to weld it, after washing it out, purge it with inert gas, Argon or whatever you can get.
Remember to wear earplugs for the first strike!

By the way I'd also purge it before cutting or drilling.

Edited by GAjon on Thursday 22 December 06:51

Edited by GAjon on Thursday 22 December 06:52

[Adrian@]

When I insert my turbo internals into Broadspeed Capri fuel tanks, my radiator man does the job ...I use 'tinned' steel parts, creating my own floor with all my parts on ...I rinse with out water for several days and then argon purge ....drill and cut out the floor of the tank, he solders my new parts in, 'tinning' any edges ...I have never had your problem....
Adrian@

[daza]

I also had my tank repaired, no problems, just find someone competent to carry out the repair.

Darren

[heightswitch]

The best amateur way to purge a fuel tank is to use your car exhaust fumes.
essentially fit tube to exhaust connect to tank neck and allow fumes to escape from sender hole. run engine for an hour or 2 and the dense noxious products of combution will purge any remaining fuel vapour from the tank.
N.

[ivanhoew]

i filled mine right up to the weld with water .no problems .

[RCK974X]

I don't know why, but the welder I used to employ for that sort of stuff said he always used sand and water. You're right, will make it a bugger to clean out afterwards. Oh well....

[stainless_steve]

GAjon said:

If your going to weld it, after washing it out, purge it with inert gas, Argon or whatever you can get.
Remember to wear earplugs for the first strike!

By the way I'd also purge it before cutting or drilling.

Edited by GAjon on Thursday 22 December 06:51

Edited by GAjon on Thursday 22 December 06:52

This is the best option

[Slow M]

Another trick, one that will come in handy for you at this time, is used for cleaning. Drop five large bolts, and five large nuts into the tank, and shake it around for a half hour, or until your arms fall off, whichever comes first. This will knock off any loose scale, fuel that's turned to varnish, rust, sediment ...

When you're done with that process, it's customary to flush with water several times, until you're confident that it's pretty well spotless.

Next, lay it in the Florida sunshine (sorry, but that's where I learned) for a few hours to evaporate any moisture. Follow with tank sealer. Good to go.

Best,
B.

P.S. Wear ear plugs, or prepare to go deaf.

[GAjon]

Slow M said:

Next, lay it in the Florida sunshine for a few hours to evaporate any moisture.

It'd be out for months waiting for the Manchester sunshine.

[RCK974X]

GAjon said:

It'd be out for months waiting for the Manchester sunshine.

As a Manchester refugee (Wythenshawe no less), I reckon the tank would probably get *wetter*

[GAjon]

Well, what a coincidence, I'm from Wythen- on- the-shore myself, Northern moor to be exact!

[Slow M]

RCK974X said:

As a Manchester refugee (Wythenshawe no less), I reckon the tank would probably get *wetter*

I've moved to Seattle, so I'm in the same boat ... uh, sorry.

All the best to all of you over the holidays.
B.