exhaust manifold blowing
exhaust manifold blowing
Author
Discussion

Meatball

Original Poster:

1,638 posts

241 months

Thursday 22nd December 2011
quotequote all
How would i check if the exhaust manifold is blowing from the 4 to 1? as i fitted new gaskets, arp bolts and nordlocks 2 years ago.
Thanks

SSPPGG

2,120 posts

233 months

Thursday 22nd December 2011
quotequote all
listen?

SILICONEKID340HP

14,997 posts

262 months

Thursday 22nd December 2011
quotequote all
Sit it on a flat surface ,fill with water ,then watch it drip out around the welds..

Meatball

Original Poster:

1,638 posts

241 months

Thursday 22nd December 2011
quotequote all
SILICONEKID340HP said:
Sit it on a flat surface ,fill with water ,then watch it drip out around the welds..
ta...the joys of using exhaust wrap.

Goaty Bill

1,779 posts

182 months

Thursday 22nd December 2011
quotequote all
SILICONEKID340HP said:
Sit it on a flat surface ,fill with water ,then watch it drip out around the welds..
A typical plumbers answer biggrin

But essentially a correct one.

SILICONEKID340HP

14,997 posts

262 months

Thursday 22nd December 2011
quotequote all
Goaty Bill said:
SILICONEKID340HP said:
Sit it on a flat surface ,fill with water ,then watch it drip out around the welds..
A typical plumbers answer biggrin

But essentially a correct one.
Its a good idea to do this before re fitting the manifolds ,saves alot of heartache blood sweat and tears....

Alexdaredevilz

5,697 posts

210 months

Thursday 22nd December 2011
quotequote all
I thought you were selling up meatball?

Meatball

Original Poster:

1,638 posts

241 months

Thursday 22nd December 2011
quotequote all
Alexdaredevilz said:
I thought you were selling up meatball?
I am or i should say tried to,ive just moved and used the car for the first time in a while and noticed the blow...then the OCD too over.

Chimpandtonic

9,637 posts

210 months

Thursday 22nd December 2011
quotequote all
Don't assume the combination of ARP bolts and Nordlocks are the definitive answer to blowing manifold gaskets.

I fitted the ARP & Nordlock kit from ACT about two years ago just like the OP.

Move on two years & I fitted an ACT Y piece, this required using a ratchet strap to pull the manifolds together & in turn promoted a very slight manifold blow.

On investigation I found most of my ARP bolts were loose, despite the Nordlock washers.

If you were supplied the zinc coated steel Nordlocks like me, it could be you need stainless ones.

Apparently the stainless ARP bolts are too hard for the standard Nordlocks to work correctly.

Only stainless Nordlocks are hard enough bite into the ARP bolts.

Ideally I should have removed the manifolds and replaced the gaskets, but the blow was very slight & as we know replacing manifold gaskets on these cars is not a fun job.

So I gave the bolts a tweak & hoped for the best.

I was lucky, tightening my ARP bolts completely solved the very slight manifold blow & 1000 miles later they are still good.

My advice is to check the tightness of those ARP bolts and don't just assume your Nordlocks are working correctly.

Meatball

Original Poster:

1,638 posts

241 months

Thursday 22nd December 2011
quotequote all
Chimpandtonic said:
Don't assume the combination of ARP bolts and Nordlocks are the definitive answer to blowing manifold gaskets.

I fitted the ARP & Nordlock kit from ACT about two years ago just like the OP.

Move on two years & I fitted an ACT Y piece, this required using a ratchet strap to pull the manifolds together & in turn promoted a very slight manifold blow.

On investigation I found most of my ARP bolts were loose, despite the Nordlock washers.

If you were supplied the zinc coated steel Nordlocks like me, it could be you need stainless ones.

Apparently the stainless ARP bolts are too hard for the standard Nordlocks to work correctly.

Only stainless Nordlocks are hard enough bite into the ARP bolts.

Ideally I should have removed the manifolds and replaced the gaskets, but the blow was very slight & as we know replacing manifold gaskets on these cars is not a fun job.

So I gave the bolts a tweak & hoped for the best.

I was lucky, tightening my ARP bolts completely solved the very slight manifold blow & 1000 miles later they are still good.

My advice is to check the tightness of those ARP bolts and don't just assume your Nordlocks are working correctly.
I agree, i initally had to nip up the arp`s 6 months ago as they had as you mentioned worked loose.
in the back of my mind im thinking it could be when the bolts worked loose and i may of trashed the gasket?.
Either way the manifold has got to come off - crap there goes the knuckles again.

Chimpandtonic

9,637 posts

210 months

Thursday 22nd December 2011
quotequote all
Meatball said:
I agree, i initally had to nip up the arp`s 6 months ago as they had as you mentioned worked loose.
in the back of my mind im thinking it could be when the bolts worked loose and i may of trashed the gasket?.
Either way the manifold has got to come off - crap there goes the knuckles again.
At least the smaller heads of the ARP bolts will make a nasty job a bit easier this time.

Perhaps it's worth getting stainless Nordlocks this time? I think that's what I'll do when the time comes.

Good luck with it Meatball.

roseytvr

1,790 posts

209 months

Thursday 22nd December 2011
quotequote all
Meatball
Before you take the manifolds off to check them get hold of a stethescope and put a length of hose on it and go around all of the manifold joints and welds - you will soon pick up where its blowing. For the sake of a tenner you may safe yourself some hassle.
Ian

Dickie Dastardly

727 posts

197 months

Thursday 22nd December 2011
quotequote all
I blanked off the end of each manifold inlet with gaffer tape then plugged the Y piece end with a plumbers 4" pipe bung. I then attached a small rubber tube to the pipe bung and blew into it - the leak was instantly apparent. If you spay some soapy water over the area this will confirm for sure (I have pictures of this but can't get them them to upload - sorry). For whats it's worth I had already removed, inspected and refitted the manifolds believing the fault to be the gaskets, I now know the area the manifolds normally crack is not visible

The only saving grace is once you've removed the manifolds once the next time is a relative dawdle!!

Richard