Suspension rebuild starts
Discussion
Loaded my chimaera onto my new lift and started to dismantle my suspension. so far chassis does not look to bad, cannot see any corrosion. NSF wishbones look pretty poor so shot blast and powder. OSF looks like someone has had a go at some time.Bad leak from sump have got new gasket to go in but found all bolts half a turn loose. More pics to follow.





Edited by dickythediver on Tuesday 27th December 00:14
Hi Peter, Thanks for that, when I have all the suspension out of the way I will get in and replace the gasket, have bought new studs for it as well. Fmily away for a few days so can crack on without interuption!! NSF hopefully the worst side is coming to bits slowly, bolts are seized on shocker and wishbone so probably causing a stiff ride. What bearings did you use powerflex or rubber?
I used Superfex supplied by Jools at the time although you can get advice from SH as there are different levels of hardness.
Also buy a new set of bolts, makes life easier for the little outlay.
I also renewed all 4 corners brake lines in braided, new rear calipers and hand brake cable, all areas I don't want to revisit!


Since then I've done the chassis front end, looks much better now and surprisingly no rust, (outriggers still to be done!).
Also buy a new set of bolts, makes life easier for the little outlay.
I also renewed all 4 corners brake lines in braided, new rear calipers and hand brake cable, all areas I don't want to revisit!


Since then I've done the chassis front end, looks much better now and surprisingly no rust, (outriggers still to be done!).
Found these on YouTube.... Might help a bit
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cCDZmaqrtQ&fea...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XagYNTSCcA&fea...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cCDZmaqrtQ&fea...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XagYNTSCcA&fea...
Hi all, Just an update on my suspension refurb and a question. Have managed to dismantle the front O.K. All a bit stiff and rusty. Only major problems were seized bolt in bottom of shock absorber had to cut either side of the bolt to get it out of the wishbone. The top ball joint seems impossible to remove so will take to engineering works to have them do along with the bushs. Now onto rear suspension and the question have loosened all bolts off but do not know whether to remove the hub from drive shaft or leave attached. I would like to remove it so as to clean up and paint. Is it adivisable to remove and if yes how? Is it just a case of removing the 6 allen headed bolts? Thanks Richard.
The only way to fully remove the driveshaft from the rear hub is to undo the 42mm (think it's this size) nut on the shaft end. If you do remove it you will need to replace it and torque it back up, not an easy job. Your best bet is to remove the hub along with the drive shaft by removing the Allen bolts where the driveshaft connects to the diff.
Hope this helps
Chris
Hope this helps
Chris
dickythediver said:
Hi all, Just an update on my suspension refurb and a question. Have managed to dismantle the front O.K. All a bit stiff and rusty. Only major problems were seized bolt in bottom of shock absorber had to cut either side of the bolt to get it out of the wishbone. The top ball joint seems impossible to remove so will take to engineering works to have them do along with the bushs. Now onto rear suspension and the question have loosened all bolts off but do not know whether to remove the hub from drive shaft or leave attached. I would like to remove it so as to clean up and paint. Is it adivisable to remove and if yes how? Is it just a case of removing the 6 allen headed bolts? Thanks Richard.
I think you maybe confusing terms twixt hub removal & the upright assembly?Undoing the 6 driveshaft allen bolts will enable you to remove the upright + hub from the car. Unless you wish to renew the wheel bearings there is no need to split the hub from the upright (scaffold bar or impact wrench on that hig 42mm nyloc).
For access if you are cleaning the chassis, and preventative maintainance its a no brainer to remove driveshafts IMHO. You can reassemble all the bolts so they dont come loose, as well as inspecting CV joints/boots/grease on them, and get better access to chassis if you are cleaning / painting (every little extra access helps).
Hi Dave and ssppgg, Thanks for the info. All I want to do is remove the pyramid and hub assy to clear access to the chassis and get the pyramid and hub onto the bench for a clean up and paint. I take it from what you are saying Dave if I remove the 6 Allen headed bolts from the flange at the back of the hub the drive shaft will come away at that point leaving it still attached to the diff. Unfortunately I cannot see any info on this. Thanks for your help Richard.
dickythediver said:
Hi Lunablack, Was there supposed to be a link on your mail? Thanks Richard.
Ooopshttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m4eZzsYmDcg&fea...
dickythediver said:
I take it from what you are saying Dave if I remove the 6 Allen headed bolts from the flange at the back of the hub the drive shaft will come away at that point leaving it still attached to the diff. Unfortunately I cannot see any info on this. Thanks for your help Richard.
Yes that's what I thought I had said, you still have to disconnect everything else linking the car to that 1/4 - ie brake caliper, wishbones. Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff





