Daytime Long Exposures - How?
Discussion
Folks,
I want to get into daytime long exposure shots of water/clouds in the new year, something new to practice with the camera! I want to get that glass like, still water effect.
I'd be looking at aiming for shots like these:

Nohaval Cove Long Exposure by dd80photo, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/silvcurl09/6175821109...
I've been researching and it seems like a 10 Stop or similar ND filter would be the best option for really long (possibly up to a few minutes) exposures of the ocean but would also be practical for shorter exposures on waterfalls/rivers as well.
Does that sound about right, or should I look at different ND filters as a beginner to daytime long shots? My camera is a 550D and I'd be using the 18-55 (58mm) kit lens.
In terms of 10 stops, what do people recommend. B+W ND110, HiTech Pro, Lee Big Stopper? I have also looked at welding glass as a cheap way to practice first, but fancy a good filter as well. I know Lee Big Stoppers seem to be like gold dust to actually buy, but are they worth the extra cash?
Thoughts?
I want to get into daytime long exposure shots of water/clouds in the new year, something new to practice with the camera! I want to get that glass like, still water effect.
I'd be looking at aiming for shots like these:

Nohaval Cove Long Exposure by dd80photo, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/silvcurl09/6175821109...
I've been researching and it seems like a 10 Stop or similar ND filter would be the best option for really long (possibly up to a few minutes) exposures of the ocean but would also be practical for shorter exposures on waterfalls/rivers as well.
Does that sound about right, or should I look at different ND filters as a beginner to daytime long shots? My camera is a 550D and I'd be using the 18-55 (58mm) kit lens.
In terms of 10 stops, what do people recommend. B+W ND110, HiTech Pro, Lee Big Stopper? I have also looked at welding glass as a cheap way to practice first, but fancy a good filter as well. I know Lee Big Stoppers seem to be like gold dust to actually buy, but are they worth the extra cash?
Thoughts?

markmullen said:
I've got the Hitech Pro Stop but my Big Stopper has just arrived (after 7 months on back order). You're welcome to borrow it if you want to have a go and we'll do a deal if you like it.
You couldn't do me a favour could you Mark, would it be possible to post a shot taken with the Hitech Pro 10 stop without any colour correction? I'm convinced mine is faulty! Thanks

markmullen said:
I've got the Hitech Pro Stop but my Big Stopper has just arrived (after 7 months on back order). You're welcome to borrow it if you want to have a go and we'll do a deal if you like it.
Mark, have you considered what the potential might be for using both of them at the same time? I'm thinking of the challenge of a bright sunny day obviously.Might need the mains adapter to power the camera for the exposure period though.
I'm guessing that most sensors would not welcome the strain.
lloyd h said:
You couldn't do me a favour could you Mark, would it be possible to post a shot taken with the Hitech Pro 10 stop without any colour correction? I'm convinced mine is faulty!
Thanks
Will do, I'm at work at the moment and have a family party tonight but will post one up ASAP.Thanks

LongQ said:
Mark, have you considered what the potential might be for using both of them at the same time? I'm thinking of the challenge of a bright sunny day obviously.
Might need the mains adapter to power the camera for the exposure period though.
I'm guessing that most sensors would not welcome the strain.
Might need the mains adapter to power the camera for the exposure period though.
I'm guessing that most sensors would not welcome the strain.
I struggle with having the patience for a 10 stop exposure, stacked 10 stoppers would be a bridge too far I think!markmullen said:
LongQ said:
Mark, have you considered what the potential might be for using both of them at the same time? I'm thinking of the challenge of a bright sunny day obviously.
Might need the mains adapter to power the camera for the exposure period though.
I'm guessing that most sensors would not welcome the strain.
Might need the mains adapter to power the camera for the exposure period though.
I'm guessing that most sensors would not welcome the strain.
I struggle with having the patience for a 10 stop exposure, stacked 10 stoppers would be a bridge too far I think!But it may not be so bad if you have a view from home that would be suitable subject matter. You could probably just set the exposure going in the morning as you leave for work and then stop it when you get home. That might be long enough.

Edited by LongQ on Thursday 29th December 20:34
markmullen said:
lloyd h said:
You couldn't do me a favour could you Mark, would it be possible to post a shot taken with the Hitech Pro 10 stop without any colour correction? I'm convinced mine is faulty!
Thanks
Will do, I'm at work at the moment and have a family party tonight but will post one up ASAP.Thanks

LongQ said:
Mark, have you considered what the potential might be for using both of them at the same time? I'm thinking of the challenge of a bright sunny day obviously.
Might need the mains adapter to power the camera for the exposure period though.
I'm guessing that most sensors would not welcome the strain.
Might need the mains adapter to power the camera for the exposure period though.
I'm guessing that most sensors would not welcome the strain.
I struggle with having the patience for a 10 stop exposure, stacked 10 stoppers would be a bridge too far I think!I've a Lee Big Stopper and it does cause a colour cast when shooting,
As Shot

_DSC3963 - Version 2 by J.F.T, on Flickr
Corrected,

Colden Clough by J.F.T, on Flickr
They do take a bit of getting used to.
As Shot

_DSC3963 - Version 2 by J.F.T, on Flickr
Corrected,

Colden Clough by J.F.T, on Flickr
They do take a bit of getting used to.
As I have understood it the colour cast is fundamentally a WB correction assuming that the effect is consistent across the frame. It's a bit like shooting though tinted glass in a car or a building with heat resistant tints or even some sort of coloured glass used for architectural effect.
WB correction seems to work in those circumstances.
Capture One software has a facility to analyze the Colour Castr of a lens (or, by inference, a lens/filter combination or, I suppose, anything similar) and apply adjustments either as a one-off analysis or saved as a profile for future use. I would assume that it could be very useful for dealing with the colour cast issues from total frame filters (maybe not grads though) which are at least consistent in their toning.
WB correction seems to work in those circumstances.
Capture One software has a facility to analyze the Colour Castr of a lens (or, by inference, a lens/filter combination or, I suppose, anything similar) and apply adjustments either as a one-off analysis or saved as a profile for future use. I would assume that it could be very useful for dealing with the colour cast issues from total frame filters (maybe not grads though) which are at least consistent in their toning.
RobDickinson said:
What do you do for colour correction?
That pic above I selected a bit of white in the river as my WB reference and went from there, otherwise just play with the WB settings.Having just deleted 3 pics from Flickr trying to post those you can rule out any notion of knowing what I'm doing,

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