Elementary techniques
Discussion
Hello all.
I have recently bought a Fisher Fury with a fireblade engine, that needs a little work.
It needs a new front clam (which I have), the handbrake doesn't work and there are electrical issues: indicators, oil/water temp.
I'm a complete novice to any sort of mechanical work, but am looking forward to getting stuck in!
If any of you have a spare few minutes I would be grateful if you would give me some advice on how to go about a few things... I haven't got many tools at the moment, but am going to build up a collection as required.
1) I have a new front clam for the car, and need to cut holes for the headlights. They are 17 cm in diameter. What is the best way to do this? I was thinking of cutting a piece of cardboard to the right size, then drilling a hole in the fibreglass to start, and cutting round the cardboard with a jig saw.
2)I need to attach a couple of pieces of wood perpendicular to the bonnet, behind the wheels to stop mud being flicked up into the engine bay. What is the best way to attach this? On the old bonnet, it looked like it had been stuck on with some scraps of fibreglass tape. How easy is it to do this?
3)best glue to attach a metal grill to the bonnet in front of the radiator?
4) I have cut the headlight wires where they were previously soldered together to get them out. Are there any waterproof plugs on the market to join the wires together again, so I don't have to cut them in the future to take the lights off?
Thanks in advance for your help
I have recently bought a Fisher Fury with a fireblade engine, that needs a little work.
It needs a new front clam (which I have), the handbrake doesn't work and there are electrical issues: indicators, oil/water temp.
I'm a complete novice to any sort of mechanical work, but am looking forward to getting stuck in!
If any of you have a spare few minutes I would be grateful if you would give me some advice on how to go about a few things... I haven't got many tools at the moment, but am going to build up a collection as required.
1) I have a new front clam for the car, and need to cut holes for the headlights. They are 17 cm in diameter. What is the best way to do this? I was thinking of cutting a piece of cardboard to the right size, then drilling a hole in the fibreglass to start, and cutting round the cardboard with a jig saw.
2)I need to attach a couple of pieces of wood perpendicular to the bonnet, behind the wheels to stop mud being flicked up into the engine bay. What is the best way to attach this? On the old bonnet, it looked like it had been stuck on with some scraps of fibreglass tape. How easy is it to do this?
3)best glue to attach a metal grill to the bonnet in front of the radiator?
4) I have cut the headlight wires where they were previously soldered together to get them out. Are there any waterproof plugs on the market to join the wires together again, so I don't have to cut them in the future to take the lights off?
Thanks in advance for your help
1) I'd cover the area with masking tape, then mark out where you want the light to be, cut the hole out using a hole saw smaller than the finished diameter you require, then using patience and a hand file, i'd file the hole to size. This will minimize the chances of chipped gelcoat.
2) A bonding product such as Worth Bond and Seal should do the trick, although you may be better making the inner arch guard from something like aluminium rather than wood.
I'm not sure on the other points.
2) A bonding product such as Worth Bond and Seal should do the trick, although you may be better making the inner arch guard from something like aluminium rather than wood.
I'm not sure on the other points.
vexed said:
1) I have a new front clam for the car, and need to cut holes for the headlights. They are 17 cm in diameter. What is the best way to do this? I was thinking of cutting a piece of cardboard to the right size, then drilling a hole in the fibreglass to start, and cutting round the cardboard with a jig saw.
No - you'll never get a clean enough and accurate enough hole by cutting around a cardboard template. Instead:- Scribe or mark the circle you want to cut out, directly onto the fibreglass.
- Drill a hole to start, then use a jigsaw to enlarge it, but keep well inside the line of the final hole you want to create.
- To get smooth, accurate edge to the final hole, I'd personally use an abrasive 'flapper' wheel mounted in a drill. Much faster than Red16's file, but you need to be careful not to overdo it, 'cos it can be too fast!
- Be aware that cutting fibreglass creates lots of very nasty dust, that you don't want to get in your clothes or lungs, so use suitable protective/disposable clothing and (more importantly) a face mask.
vexed said:
2)I need to attach a couple of pieces of wood perpendicular to the bonnet, behind the wheels to stop mud being flicked up into the engine bay. What is the best way to attach this? On the old bonnet, it looked like it had been stuck on with some scraps of fibreglass tape. How easy is it to do this?
Yes, fibreglass will do, and it's pretty easy once you've cut your 'deflector' panels to the proile of the underside of the bonnet. Use cardboard templates and a flexible curve, or a 'mouse' (a pen/pencil with rod attached at 90 degrees, that allows you to draw a line onto a cardboard template, offset from the curve you're copying).Personally, I'd use a sheet of aluminium or fibreglass (or carbon fibre, if you're rich and want a sheet material that you can buy 'off the shelf') rather than wood, mind you.
And make sure the fibreglass you are bonding to is clean and free from contamination (was it down with water first, then wipe with acetone, then rought the area you're bonding to with a bit of sandpaper to provide a better key).
You can buy fibreglass kits from Halfords and other motor factors - they're over-priced, but probably convenient for the amount of material you'll be using.
vexed said:
3)best glue to attach a metal grill to the bonnet in front of the radiator?
Fibreglass, again. Or if you want something less permanent, you could use 'Sikaflex' (a tough 'silicone' type sealant... but note the inverted commas; a pedant will be along shortly to tell me it's actually polyurethane, not silicone), which is available form marine chandlers and fibreglass suppliers.vexed said:
4) I have cut the headlight wires where they were previously soldered together to get them out. Are there any waterproof plugs on the market to join the wires together again, so I don't have to cut them in the future to take the lights off?
Yes, there are plenty of specialist suppliers of plugs and connectors that will be able to supply what you require. Google 'automotive electircal supplies'http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/category/Electrical/Ter...
down the page for make yourself a multiplug kit
also supply almost everything else you need!
down the page for make yourself a multiplug kit
also supply almost everything else you need!
2)I need to attach a couple of pieces of wood perpendicular to the bonnet, behind the wheels to stop mud being flicked up into the engine bay. What is the best way to attach this? On the old bonnet, it looked like it had been stuck on with some scraps of fibreglass tape. How easy is it to do this?
dont use wood!!!
the "old" sylva fury and phoenix came without any splashshields. it was up to the builder do anything.
some have realized it with fibreglass to the bonnet (like it was done later factorywise from fisher). you can also rivet an L-shaped alloy bar on the end of the sill (red marked in picture below) and fix an alloy-shield with DZUS fasteners on those bracket (green marked). that would be the easiest thing to do.
dont use wood!!!
the "old" sylva fury and phoenix came without any splashshields. it was up to the builder do anything.
some have realized it with fibreglass to the bonnet (like it was done later factorywise from fisher). you can also rivet an L-shaped alloy bar on the end of the sill (red marked in picture below) and fix an alloy-shield with DZUS fasteners on those bracket (green marked). that would be the easiest thing to do.
I would stick with your plan to fit the shield to the front clip. This will then move it all out of the way when the clip is open.
You can also make a panel lengthways and sculpt the bottom edge around the suspension. This will reduce the amount of dirt being thrown inboard onto the engine. It will also give strength to the panel you are already proposing.
Make a cardboard template and trim it until happy with the shape. Lay it on a board and draw round it. Lay polythene over the board and lay up some GF over it to the desired thickness. When it has gone off trim to shape and bond into the clip.
See the same on this Ultima.
Use PU sealant for the grill. It will hold well but offer the possibility of getting it out again if needs be.
Steve
You can also make a panel lengthways and sculpt the bottom edge around the suspension. This will reduce the amount of dirt being thrown inboard onto the engine. It will also give strength to the panel you are already proposing.
Make a cardboard template and trim it until happy with the shape. Lay it on a board and draw round it. Lay polythene over the board and lay up some GF over it to the desired thickness. When it has gone off trim to shape and bond into the clip.
See the same on this Ultima.
Use PU sealant for the grill. It will hold well but offer the possibility of getting it out again if needs be.
Steve
Excellent, thankyou all very much for the posts. This is exactly the kind of practical advice I need! I'm sure I will have more questions coming up in this thread....
I will ditch the idea of wood and consider fibreglass/aluminium instead. Would aluminium be held securely if I bonded it on with fibreglass?
I will ditch the idea of wood and consider fibreglass/aluminium instead. Would aluminium be held securely if I bonded it on with fibreglass?
vexed said:
.....Would aluminium be held securely if I bonded it on with fibreglass?
Yes, provided you gave it a 'Key' either heavy scratching of the ali surface or a number of small holes.I still think the GF will make a better job.
The ali you use will likely need painting which will involve first using an etch primer whereas the finished GF mod along with the underside of the clip can be sprayed with something like Hammerite Stone Chip Paint. Stonechip has been used on the Ultima in the picture and is the technique we use on all our kitcar builds.
Steve
I've noticed that the old front clam had some ventilation holes cut out towards the back of the clam. Is this a good idea for the new clam?
I'm going to see if I can get away without cutting a hole for the airbox in the top of the clam, as I've swapped the original honda airbox for a foam intake.
I'm going to see if I can get away without cutting a hole for the airbox in the top of the clam, as I've swapped the original honda airbox for a foam intake.
vexed said:
I've noticed that the old front clam had some ventilation holes cut out towards the back of the clam. Is this a good idea for the new clam?
I'm going to see if I can get away without cutting a hole for the airbox in the top of the clam, as I've swapped the original honda airbox for a foam intake.
You need a way for air entering the engine compartment (e.g. via the radiator) to escape. If air can't easily get out then you get little airflow and things start overheating.I'm going to see if I can get away without cutting a hole for the airbox in the top of the clam, as I've swapped the original honda airbox for a foam intake.
Foam air filters in a hot engine compartment are a good way to reduce engine power, unless they are enclosed and ducted to a cool air source of air.
Hi all
Many thanks for all the advice above- I have finished most of the stuff above along with the hundred and one other things I came across when I was looking closely at the car!
I am pretty much ready to take the car back on the road with a view to some track days soon, but have hit a new snag.
When I rev the engine, with any more than gentle pressure on the accelerator, when the revs climb the engine sounds like it becoming starved of fuel, and the revs stop rising. On the road the car drives fine when used gently, but with any more brisk acceleration the same happens.
I have changed almost all the fuel line, the 'in line filter' and the filter in the fuel pump. There is also a fuel flow rate regulator in the line- adjusting this does not seem to make any difference. With or without the foam filter on the car in the garage, the same happens when it is revved.
Any ideas?
Should the 'in line' air filter constantly be filled with fuel? It is when the fuel pump is off, but when the pump is running, there is a trace of fuel at the bottom of the filter only.
Do you need to flush fuel lines through after changing? My impression was that on petrol engines there was no need.
Thanks again for answering my ignorant questions!
Edit- I should say that there were no such problems before I started working on the car. I changed the filters and fuel line because they were looking tatty- not to try and solve this problem!
Many thanks for all the advice above- I have finished most of the stuff above along with the hundred and one other things I came across when I was looking closely at the car!
I am pretty much ready to take the car back on the road with a view to some track days soon, but have hit a new snag.
When I rev the engine, with any more than gentle pressure on the accelerator, when the revs climb the engine sounds like it becoming starved of fuel, and the revs stop rising. On the road the car drives fine when used gently, but with any more brisk acceleration the same happens.
I have changed almost all the fuel line, the 'in line filter' and the filter in the fuel pump. There is also a fuel flow rate regulator in the line- adjusting this does not seem to make any difference. With or without the foam filter on the car in the garage, the same happens when it is revved.
Any ideas?
Should the 'in line' air filter constantly be filled with fuel? It is when the fuel pump is off, but when the pump is running, there is a trace of fuel at the bottom of the filter only.
Do you need to flush fuel lines through after changing? My impression was that on petrol engines there was no need.
Thanks again for answering my ignorant questions!
Edit- I should say that there were no such problems before I started working on the car. I changed the filters and fuel line because they were looking tatty- not to try and solve this problem!
Edited by vexed on Friday 20th January 17:09
Gassing Station | Kit Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff