Hot start problem on ST185 GT-Four

[squareflops]

Struggling to find an answer to this guys. I've read about 4000 threads on the same issue but that's the problem, seems to be 4000 different suggestions also. If I give you the symptoms who knows some one may know the answer or at least narrow it down.

I haven't replaced/modified anything just prior that would create the issue so my thinking is something has failed.

When it's cold it's fine, no issues at all, starts perfectly. When hot it trys to start, sometimes I can 'catch' it on the throttle as it splutters momentarily, if I miss that chance though - game over. The solution comes (the first time it did this was on Vixpys dyno )was to remove the fuel pump relay, spin the car over for a good 5/6 seconds with throttle wide open then replace the relay with the engine still turning and it fires up fine and runs as normal.

I've got a few ideas from the common issues I've read through but if anyone's got suggestions I'd appreciate hearing them. Hi to anyone from the GT4OC btw - know there's a few of us on here. Shame I'm not a member right now.

Cheers all..

[littleredrooster]

Hot starting problems are often related to incorrect (i.e. tight) valve clearances.

[Buff Mchugelarge]

Not sure if it's of any help but if it was a BMW it would be the crank Sensor.

[squareflops]

littleredrooster said:

Hot starting problems are often related to incorrect (i.e. tight) valve clearances.

4001.

Surely not something that would create a fine one day / not the next situation though I wouldn't have thought. Plus the head was skimmed and rebuilt about a year ago so I'm relatively confident that's all pretty dialed. Who knows though!

Edited by squareflops on Saturday 31st December 16:00

[squareflops]

All helps Buff, probably should be on the cards of small things to replace as a matter of course in this situation.

[magpie215]

could it be the ECU coolant temp sensor?

telling ecu it is cold when in fact its warm so dumping too much fuel in.

is the exhaust smoke black when it fires up warm?

[squareflops]

Sounds viable, It does give out a black puff when it fires.

I'll contact Mr T and order/replace all the sensors. Which probably won't help at all

[magpie215]

have you done a diagnostic check?

paperclip method

ETA

if you do not know how
http://www.gtfours.co.uk/

menu on left 2nd down check error codes. basically bridge contact e1 and te1 in the diagnostic port( lh side of engine bay) and turn ignition so instruments power up but do not start the car.

check engine light will blink out codes in a morse code fashion

i.e * * * pause * * * * would be code 34

a steady flashing means no stored codes

Edited by magpie215 on Saturday 31st December 16:34

[squareflops]

Ahh I'd forgotten about that. Never put much faith in the diagnostic but will try that too. Good thinking Magpie

EDIT: Same Magpie from the OC who ran the Caldina? (hence the 215?) If so met you up at FW

I'm Squarepants with the white Lightweight

Cheers

Edited by squareflops on Saturday 31st December 16:57

[AmitG]

squareflops said:

littleredrooster said:

Hot starting problems are often related to incorrect (i.e. tight) valve clearances.

4001.

Surely not something that would create a fine one day / not the next situation though I wouldn't have thought. Plus the head was skimmed and rebuilt about a year ago so I'm relatively confident that's all pretty dialed. Who knows though!

I had exactly the same symptoms on one of my cars (Jaguar XJ8) and the problem was indeed valve clearances. The engine had been recently rebuilt and something had not been done correctly. A lot of work for the garage to put right (under warranty). The symptoms started to manifest themselves a few months after the rebuild.

Different engine I know, but the principle is the same.

Not sure if this would show up on a compression test...?

[squareflops]

Fair enough Amit - I recently had a comp test done and I'm not suer if that would show up either. It did read 190 across all 4 cylinders (Mr T quoted 192 from factory) so comp is definitely good. I'd really prefer not to pull the top end apart though

[magpie215]

squareflops said:

EDIT: Same Magpie from the OC who ran the Caldina? (hence the 215?) If so met you up at FW

I'm Squarepants with the white Lightweight

Cheers

Edited by squareflops on Saturday 31st December 16:57

The very same

Edited by magpie215 on Saturday 31st December 18:02

[LuS1fer]

Have you checked the engine earth strap? Only the one on my Golf appeared intact but the battery would turn and then stop but would then go again. Luckily it soon fell off but I'd already bought a new battery...

[MartG]

I'm not sure if the 3S-GTE engine has the same cold start system as my 4A-GZE, but I had a similar issue which turned out to be the coolant temp sensor for the cold start system triggering the cold start injector ( used to richen the mix ) even when the engine was warm

[magpie215]

MartG said:

I'm not sure if the 3S-GTE engine has the same cold start system as my 4A-GZE, but I had a similar issue which turned out to be the coolant temp sensor for the cold start system triggering the cold start injector ( used to richen the mix ) even when the engine was warm

yes I was thinking along those lines (post 6) iirc on the coolant elbow there is a specific sensor for the cold start system.

[squareflops]

Hmm that could be the culprit as the symptoms tie in with that potential cause, flooding on start up etc.

Think first port of call is to replace that. I've got a Golpher rad and seem to recall something being mentioned re the temp sender. I'll investigate.

Good to talk to you again Magpie

Cheers Mart & Lus