Door studs and washers / cone packers

[jellison]

Hi Anyone know where i can get one of these (only have 3 of the 4) to attach the door to the hinges.

One side of one of the washers has a cone shape to mate to the indentation in the door.



Cheers
Jelly

[Adrian@]

Surely the coned plate has only become 'coned' and deformed as it has been done up.
Adrian@
Edited to say... that the hex plate is a bespoke 'nut' and the cone effect is from contact with the fibreglass and that rather than de-forming by being done up it is forced out by the rust against the door shell, where the centre is air dried and the damp rusty part has rotted away, leaving it cone shaped.
Between myself and Richard Carter we have replaced the hinges on his 2a.

Edited by Adrian@ on Monday 2nd January 14:36

[jellison]

I'm pretty sure the domed / coned shaped bit is solid metal and madet o fit and indentation on the door.

[Adrian@]

I have just looked at the doors and there is no signs of that...these are a floating items in the round hole and the door shell is in as good as could be expected for 40 year old glass fibre (also any cone into a glass fibre hole would allow it to burst out). The old internals to the door/hinge points are rusted to next to nothing (and now copied in S/S), but are not out of shape either around the holes. (we most likely need a TVR expert and I will make a call in the morning and ask the question)
Adrian@

[phillpot]

Should the dome/cone prove correct shouldn't be difficult to produce?

cut out of flat, place on a suitable sized socket, rest ball pein hammer on centre hole and whack with a large copper mallet


Can't help thinking Adrian's right though, would TVr really have gone to the trouble of making a fancy washer or used a piece of flat plate? from my (very limited) experience of TVR's they didn't spend a shilling when sixpence would do!

[terenceb]

Jon.I think you'll find that the above reply's are correct. Only ever used to make them for CMS whilst we were building THOSE cars.

[jellison]

think you are now write from an upload via Griff144.

Have to make one. The 4 hinges need a verys careful clean bead blast not sand. Hope they can come back.

These stainless ones. Just in case are these avalible still? Any idea on price?

Also the felt stuff to go round the windows, is this possible to get hold of?

[heightswitch]

jellison said:

think you are now write from an upload via Griff144.

Have to make one. The 4 hinges need a verys careful clean bead blast not sand. Hope they can come back.

These stainless ones. Just in case are these avalible still? Any idea on price?

Also the felt stuff to go round the windows, is this possible to get hold of?

Jelly. alot of the stuff for the window trimming can be gotten from woolies trim.
The coned pieces you have photos of look relatively easy to make flat plate with large hole and spacer with correct reamed hole, weld spacer to flat plate from underneath then turn the required taper onto the spacer on a lathe.

N.

[jellison]

Cheers Neil.

Good one on Woolies, I'll check that.

I might as well ask if anyone on here (Adrian?) do you have 1 of these studs with the steel plate washers on each side to secure into the Door/hinge (one less thing to have to fab!!!

[Adrian@]

Hi,
I rarely work on the earlier cars..although that seems to changing, as another friend has just bought one, a Griff 200..but with M series parts I always make additional items, I did not, so I cannot help you here...Re the window seals ..The OE item is a White canvas seal (which is obsolete), glued in, and due to the shallow height of the alloy extrusion, rubber versions from the seal are too tall...(Vixens/early M's have the inner upright part of the door extrusion in the same profile), I have a black canvas runner that does that job, if you get stuck.
Adrian@

[RCK974X]

Another idea ...

On my Vixen, the window frame assy. has a very shallow frame by the quarterlight. I used the Woolies solid window channel (Ref 51) and carefully sliced it with a Stanley knife, and then glued it in.

works well....