E46 Cabrio Fuses
Discussion
Hi all
Help!
I'm trying to locate a battery drain issue in my 2005 e46 M3 Cabrio. When I checked the fuses, I found some were wrong values and some may have been missing - like fuse 67 which is a "Thiefproofing system" fuse. Can anyone tell me which fuses should be missing?
I'm getting a constant draw of 250mA (using an in-line meter) on the 200A battery lead - which sounds too much (I've started to investigate after I had the old and a new replacement battery go flat). I've fitted a C-Tek charger and am currently plugging her in every night to keep her topped up.
So when I checked all the fuses, the only draw I see (after everything has gone to sleep) is 65mA for fuse 67 "Thiefproofing system" (which I think was originally missing) and 25mA from 68 "heated rear window" which is odd in itself. I've checked the wiring around the screen and all looks ok? Anyway... that's still only 100mA with 150mA not accounted for. I've found some audio leads and a switched live (badly done) taped up in the boot under the carpet trim and suspect that there's been a power amp in the boot at some point. Maybe there's some more audio hidden in the front drawing the 150mA from another fuse?? Needs further investigation. The only other unusual thing I've found is that when using a current clamp and not the meter, I can read 250mA on the + lead but 900mA on the - lead?? The clamp readings seem to be a bit over the place from 1 minute to the next, but there does seem to be this difference. I need to try and verify with the meter this coming weekend. But has anyone come across this?
Help!
I'm trying to locate a battery drain issue in my 2005 e46 M3 Cabrio. When I checked the fuses, I found some were wrong values and some may have been missing - like fuse 67 which is a "Thiefproofing system" fuse. Can anyone tell me which fuses should be missing?
I'm getting a constant draw of 250mA (using an in-line meter) on the 200A battery lead - which sounds too much (I've started to investigate after I had the old and a new replacement battery go flat). I've fitted a C-Tek charger and am currently plugging her in every night to keep her topped up.
So when I checked all the fuses, the only draw I see (after everything has gone to sleep) is 65mA for fuse 67 "Thiefproofing system" (which I think was originally missing) and 25mA from 68 "heated rear window" which is odd in itself. I've checked the wiring around the screen and all looks ok? Anyway... that's still only 100mA with 150mA not accounted for. I've found some audio leads and a switched live (badly done) taped up in the boot under the carpet trim and suspect that there's been a power amp in the boot at some point. Maybe there's some more audio hidden in the front drawing the 150mA from another fuse?? Needs further investigation. The only other unusual thing I've found is that when using a current clamp and not the meter, I can read 250mA on the + lead but 900mA on the - lead?? The clamp readings seem to be a bit over the place from 1 minute to the next, but there does seem to be this difference. I need to try and verify with the meter this coming weekend. But has anyone come across this?
E30M3SE said:
Yes, I would have thought so.
Has that car ever had or currently have a Tracker fitted to it?
As in my experience, old trackers this is a likely cause of any drain.
An old tracker causing problems with its own internal bettery is what I think. However I don't have any paperwork so don't know if one is fitted. Not to sure how you go about finding out?? Guess I need to speak to BMW and maybe phone around a few of the tracker companies.Has that car ever had or currently have a Tracker fitted to it?
As in my experience, old trackers this is a likely cause of any drain.
I did have another question... the 40mA... do I have to have the car all locked up and alarmed? Or can I have the boot and a door open and not alarmed? I've pulled out the boot courtesy lights and switched off the courtesy lights inside so there should be no draw from these.
The way I do this is to take a screw driver and push it against the door latch until it locks in place, (simulate door latch hitting the stricker as it shuts) same with the boot this shuts the micro switches and fools the car in to thinking doors and boot are closed.
Alarm off.
IIRC the all came with Trackers from the dealer, it may not be 'active' now but if it's wired into the car it is still a drain. It is a bit of a hunt around job, drivers under dash or behind a rear 'door' card, look for not standard (wrapped in PVC tape rather than cloth) wires.
ETA, to then allow closing of the doors and boot just pull the handle and latch will release.
Alarm off.
IIRC the all came with Trackers from the dealer, it may not be 'active' now but if it's wired into the car it is still a drain. It is a bit of a hunt around job, drivers under dash or behind a rear 'door' card, look for not standard (wrapped in PVC tape rather than cloth) wires.
ETA, to then allow closing of the doors and boot just pull the handle and latch will release.
E30M3SE said:
The way I do this is to take a screw driver and push it against the door latch until it locks in place, (simulate door latch hitting the stricker as it shuts) same with the boot this shuts the micro switches and fools the car in to thinking doors and boot are closed.
Alarm off.
IIRC the all came with Trackers from the dealer, it may not be 'active' now but if it's wired into the car it is still a drain. It is a bit of a hunt around job, drivers under dash or behind a rear 'door' card, look for not standard (wrapped in PVC tape rather than cloth) wires.
ETA, to then allow closing of the doors and boot just pull the handle and latch will release.
Thanks for the really good info. Will have another go this weekend. Are the tracker units always inside the car? I ask because lots of the wiring under the bonet is taped and I did notice a tiny peel on one of the groups of wires when having a nose about.Alarm off.
IIRC the all came with Trackers from the dealer, it may not be 'active' now but if it's wired into the car it is still a drain. It is a bit of a hunt around job, drivers under dash or behind a rear 'door' card, look for not standard (wrapped in PVC tape rather than cloth) wires.
ETA, to then allow closing of the doors and boot just pull the handle and latch will release.
B3Svert said:
Interesting topic and interesting reply re. Tracker as I was also going to suggest this. Once you find the tracker though, how do you go about removing it safely and properly?
Removing the + supply should be sufficient, although I'd probably remove the gnd as well.On my last car, I had a tracker fitted from new. I sold it and bought it back some 6 years later. I phoned tracket to see if it was still active to which they told me that after 5 years, it would need to be serviced before they would bring it back on line. I'm guessing this would be to replace the battery and check it was all working ok. So I suspect that some do go rougue from time to time.
B3Svert said:
Interesting topic and interesting reply re. Tracker as I was also going to suggest this. Once you find the tracker though, how do you go about removing it safely and properly?
Trace wires back to source, disconnect, remove and bin, although the above will be sufficent.Edited by E30M3SE on Tuesday 10th January 14:32
Gassing Station | BMW General | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff