Oil- you tell your indy it needs 10w40, they stick 5w30 ...
Discussion
This could go on and on. Most people are convinced their car needs 5w30 fully synthetic, convincing themselves that more expensive oil will somehow make the car last longer or go faster.
Truth is, whether it's a petrol or a diesel, turbo or not, 10w40 semi is fine for 90% of vehicles up to 9-10k miles, in our climate.
Truth is, whether it's a petrol or a diesel, turbo or not, 10w40 semi is fine for 90% of vehicles up to 9-10k miles, in our climate.
Astra Dan said:
This could go on and on. Most people are convinced their car needs 5w30 fully synthetic, convincing themselves that more expensive oil will somehow make the car last longer or go faster.
Truth is, whether it's a petrol or a diesel, turbo or not, 10w40 semi is fine for 90% of vehicles up to 9-10k miles, in our climate.
I've seen the damage done to a turbo Saab which used semi not full synthetic. I'd be happier spending a few pounds extra on oil rather than £500+ when the turbo goes. Truth is, whether it's a petrol or a diesel, turbo or not, 10w40 semi is fine for 90% of vehicles up to 9-10k miles, in our climate.
Leicesterdave said:
Out of interest though- why does the manufacturer state different oil viscosity for different temperatures? What 'damage', in theory, will the 5w30 do at temperatures above 10c?
well, it's a bit thinner so in theory, in hot weather, if it gets hot (say, after a thrash down the m'way and then stuck in traffic) it'll get too thin (the polymers or something in multigrade oil change when it heats up to change it's viscosity, how runny it is) and won't lubricate and protect the engine properly. If it where non-synthetic I would also say you are in danger of overheating the oil, but I don't think that's a problem for you with fully synthetic. It'd have to get very hot, say 120+.I don't think it'll be a problem unless you are entering the car into LeMans.
varsas said:
well, it's a bit thinner so in theory, in hot weather, if it gets hot (say, after a thrash down the m'way and then stuck in traffic) it'll get too thin (the polymers or something in multigrade oil change when it heats up to change it's viscosity, how runny it is) and won't lubricate and protect the engine properly. If it where non-synthetic I would also say you are in danger of overheating the oil, but I don't think that's a problem for you with fully synthetic. It'd have to get very hot, say 120+.
I don't think it'll be a problem unless you are entering the car into LeMans.
Thanks for this. Still a pain considering I paid for this. Wish I had the know how to do it myself.I don't think it'll be a problem unless you are entering the car into LeMans.
rscott said:
I've seen the damage done to a turbo Saab which used semi not full synthetic. I'd be happier spending a few pounds extra on oil rather than £500+ when the turbo goes.
My understanding is that it's not the oil affecting the turbo, but causing sludge to build up in the sump, which then blocks the strainer and causes starvation...It is the oil, but it's not the viscosity.
Leicesterdave said:
varsas said:
well, it's a bit thinner so in theory, in hot weather, if it gets hot (say, after a thrash down the m'way and then stuck in traffic) it'll get too thin (the polymers or something in multigrade oil change when it heats up to change it's viscosity, how runny it is) and won't lubricate and protect the engine properly. If it where non-synthetic I would also say you are in danger of overheating the oil, but I don't think that's a problem for you with fully synthetic. It'd have to get very hot, say 120+.
I don't think it'll be a problem unless you are entering the car into LeMans.
Thanks for this. Still a pain considering I paid for this. Wish I had the know how to do it myself.I don't think it'll be a problem unless you are entering the car into LeMans.
The only way to learn is to get stuck in. You'll make mistakes and it'll be frustrating but it's worth it, it's mostly only nuts and bolts. As for changing the oil; getting the car up in the air safely is the most difficult part.
steveo3002 said:
if you asked for xx to be used then go back and ask them to sort it
typical sort of thing id get from a garage so i perfer to roll about in the street and diy it
I didn't ask per se- Seeing as I don't trust anyone, I stated in question that it needs 10w40. Guy mumbled yes, probably but we'll check, don't worry.typical sort of thing id get from a garage so i perfer to roll about in the street and diy it
They checked alright! It seems though, that it should do no harm.
Leicesterdave said:
Out of interest though- why does the manufacturer state different oil viscosity for different temperatures? What 'damage', in theory, will the 5w30 do at temperatures above 10c?
Isn't that what 5W30 means? A viscosity of "5" at high temperature and "30" and low temperature (for some given predetermined values of "high" and "low". So presumably a viscosity of "5" is too low for the engine and will cause excessive wear? I doubt it'll make a significant difference though, in reality. It's not as if they're miles apart.
kambites said:
Leicesterdave said:
Out of interest though- why does the manufacturer state different oil viscosity for different temperatures? What 'damage', in theory, will the 5w30 do at temperatures above 10c?
Isn't that what 5W30 means? A viscosity of "5" at high temperature and "30" and low temperature (for some given predetermined values of "high" and "low". So presumably a viscosity of "5" is too low for the engine and will cause excessive wear? I doubt it'll make a significant difference though, in reality. It's not as if they're miles apart.
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