Overheating Tamora
Discussion
Hi,
I'd appreciate some thoughts on the cooling system (2002 Tamora). Recently overheated (water temp read 112deg) after being stuck in heavy traffic and just as I parked up the car sprayed coolant everywhere. Looks like the expansion tank cap gave way (I believe there's a one-way valve built into it); the car is drivable and showing no signs of leaks after topping up the coolant level. I've ordered a replacement expansion tank cap which should arrive soon.
However even before this happened, the water temp was getting hot very easily. The oil seems ok, always around 70 and up to 80 max when in traffic.
At the moment it's at the point where it's not practical to drive it as it literally only takes a couple of minutes in traffic before the water temp goes to around 100deg - 106 deg. At this point, if I find a clear bit of road to get up to 40-50mph the temps quickly settle back down to around 80 - 90 deg and if there's no clear road I turn it off to be safe. The fan is kicking in around 90-94 deg everytime.
I'm planning a trip to either TVR Power / Str8six / RG in a couple of months time from France for the service and to look at what can be done to the cooling system. Is the aluminium rad that the parts websites offer an upgrade over the factory fit unit? Is it worth looking at installing a more capable fan?
Any general thoughts on fixes / upgrades that would sort this? Has anyone else had similar issues with overheating so easily in traffic?
I read an older post recently where the owner said the car (Tamora) had been sitting / crawling in traffic for two hours and the water temp didn't go above 94.... makes me wonder what's wrong with mine!
I'd appreciate some thoughts on the cooling system (2002 Tamora). Recently overheated (water temp read 112deg) after being stuck in heavy traffic and just as I parked up the car sprayed coolant everywhere. Looks like the expansion tank cap gave way (I believe there's a one-way valve built into it); the car is drivable and showing no signs of leaks after topping up the coolant level. I've ordered a replacement expansion tank cap which should arrive soon.
However even before this happened, the water temp was getting hot very easily. The oil seems ok, always around 70 and up to 80 max when in traffic.
At the moment it's at the point where it's not practical to drive it as it literally only takes a couple of minutes in traffic before the water temp goes to around 100deg - 106 deg. At this point, if I find a clear bit of road to get up to 40-50mph the temps quickly settle back down to around 80 - 90 deg and if there's no clear road I turn it off to be safe. The fan is kicking in around 90-94 deg everytime.
I'm planning a trip to either TVR Power / Str8six / RG in a couple of months time from France for the service and to look at what can be done to the cooling system. Is the aluminium rad that the parts websites offer an upgrade over the factory fit unit? Is it worth looking at installing a more capable fan?
Any general thoughts on fixes / upgrades that would sort this? Has anyone else had similar issues with overheating so easily in traffic?
I read an older post recently where the owner said the car (Tamora) had been sitting / crawling in traffic for two hours and the water temp didn't go above 94.... makes me wonder what's wrong with mine!
Hi, What's the idle speed? Have you tried picking up the revs to 1200ish when in traffic and, as the previous, are both fans working? Do you get plenty of heat from the heater at idle or does this blow luke warm?
Re your other post I don't think you would "fry" anything using the Anderson, the flat battery being connected should help to dull down the effect.
Interested to find out,as I am sure you are.
Cheers, J
Re your other post I don't think you would "fry" anything using the Anderson, the flat battery being connected should help to dull down the effect.
Interested to find out,as I am sure you are.
Cheers, J
Idle speed when warm is about 700-750. I haven't tried going to 1200 in traffic, will give it a go when I jump start it (battery's dead following the issue in my other post). I think from the last dive that both fans are kicking in but will double check this...
Should've mentioned that this overheating is when the outside air temp is around 2deg C, so in summer it would be worse.
Funny you mention idle speed, it's another thing I'm going to get looked at when I get back to the UK. When starting from cold, I need to give it a very slight amount of gas every time now for it to keep ticking over. It wants to idle around 550 rpm and doesn't manage it until water gets to about 30-35deg (oil can be low, about 5-10deg). It idles fine when warm. It feels like the engine isn't getting enough fuel when cold and that it should be idling at higher revs when cold.... case of the ECU needing re-mapping to give more fuel on start-up? I always follow the general rules on keeping revs down until up to normal temp etc.
Should've mentioned that this overheating is when the outside air temp is around 2deg C, so in summer it would be worse.
Funny you mention idle speed, it's another thing I'm going to get looked at when I get back to the UK. When starting from cold, I need to give it a very slight amount of gas every time now for it to keep ticking over. It wants to idle around 550 rpm and doesn't manage it until water gets to about 30-35deg (oil can be low, about 5-10deg). It idles fine when warm. It feels like the engine isn't getting enough fuel when cold and that it should be idling at higher revs when cold.... case of the ECU needing re-mapping to give more fuel on start-up? I always follow the general rules on keeping revs down until up to normal temp etc.
Morning Allan
Been an aero space engineer I guess you've done the usual checks??? Looked for any leaks etc had the thermostat out and checked to see if it’s operating correctly. As suggested…are the fans switching on and off??
If air has got into the system due to a leak this will obviously have an effect air is in the system etc. As for the thermo state this is situated in the front top right side of the engine and feeds in to the top return hose of the water expansion tank. Get it out and have a look at the gen condition. It should be closed when cold. Boil the kettle pour the water in to a glass, drop the thermostat in and it should open. If it doesn't its knackered. Then it’s a case of down to the local auto centre they’ll get the temp off the thermostat off the stamping on the stat itself and should be able to match to the one you require. I think they are a ford Granada but don't quote me on this, but somebody will be a long to correct me shortly. Or alternatively buy it via the usual TVR dealership array.
Fan wise: 1st fan will come on at 90*C and the second @94*c if not check the wiring/connections to the rad then work your way back a long the cable looking for any chaffing etc.
Hope this helps
Buzz
Been an aero space engineer I guess you've done the usual checks??? Looked for any leaks etc had the thermostat out and checked to see if it’s operating correctly. As suggested…are the fans switching on and off??
If air has got into the system due to a leak this will obviously have an effect air is in the system etc. As for the thermo state this is situated in the front top right side of the engine and feeds in to the top return hose of the water expansion tank. Get it out and have a look at the gen condition. It should be closed when cold. Boil the kettle pour the water in to a glass, drop the thermostat in and it should open. If it doesn't its knackered. Then it’s a case of down to the local auto centre they’ll get the temp off the thermostat off the stamping on the stat itself and should be able to match to the one you require. I think they are a ford Granada but don't quote me on this, but somebody will be a long to correct me shortly. Or alternatively buy it via the usual TVR dealership array.
Fan wise: 1st fan will come on at 90*C and the second @94*c if not check the wiring/connections to the rad then work your way back a long the cable looking for any chaffing etc.
Hope this helps
Buzz
The question has already been asked about whether your fans are kicking in. If they are not kicking in, check the connector to the coolant temperature sensor, as it's orientated in such a way that condensation runs into the connector and corrodes it.
If it is this connector at fault, after repair put heat shrink sleeving over the connector to keep it dry.
If it is this connector at fault, after repair put heat shrink sleeving over the connector to keep it dry.
LeeT350c said:
You might find the following thread useful:http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I had a similar issue with my Cerbera this week.
I checked the thermostat and it was ok, then ordered a new water temp sensor from TVR Power and it looks like it's sorted, fans are kicking in again at roughly 92 and 94 and after filling up with coolant again as the last lot spewed out of the expansion tank the temperature seems stable reaching 96ish and then falling back to mid eighties while stationery.
I checked the thermostat and it was ok, then ordered a new water temp sensor from TVR Power and it looks like it's sorted, fans are kicking in again at roughly 92 and 94 and after filling up with coolant again as the last lot spewed out of the expansion tank the temperature seems stable reaching 96ish and then falling back to mid eighties while stationery.
Buzz et al.... sorry for not yet completing the picture on this post but travelling a lot the last two weeks put a stop to rectifying the over-heating issues along with the F-RAM warning I mentioned in my other post.
I left the car after the last issue (car at work, F-RAM warning, then fog lights & dash POD wouldn't go off, couldn't find the fuse so battery totally drained). Now I think the battery might be permanently dead.
Just tried to jump start using the Clarke jump start pack I have via the anderson connector (this has worked a couple of times before) but I couldn't even get the doors to open!
I left the battery pack connected for 5-10mins, but still nothing. Strangley though, when disconnecting the anderson connector the alarm went off... I take it the alarm is powered by the main car battery?
Changed the key fob batteries but still no joy getting in. Problem after problem at the moment...
As I'm in france and no one will post the standard battery on all the TVR parts sites... can anyone recommend an alternative battery that I can pick up in France? From some forum searching it seems you need to be careful about physical dimensions / lip around the base?
Once I can get into it I'll post some feedback regarding the over-heating... thanks for all the advice above!
I left the car after the last issue (car at work, F-RAM warning, then fog lights & dash POD wouldn't go off, couldn't find the fuse so battery totally drained). Now I think the battery might be permanently dead.
Just tried to jump start using the Clarke jump start pack I have via the anderson connector (this has worked a couple of times before) but I couldn't even get the doors to open!
I left the battery pack connected for 5-10mins, but still nothing. Strangley though, when disconnecting the anderson connector the alarm went off... I take it the alarm is powered by the main car battery?
Changed the key fob batteries but still no joy getting in. Problem after problem at the moment...
As I'm in france and no one will post the standard battery on all the TVR parts sites... can anyone recommend an alternative battery that I can pick up in France? From some forum searching it seems you need to be careful about physical dimensions / lip around the base?
Once I can get into it I'll post some feedback regarding the over-heating... thanks for all the advice above!
The good news is the battery is not dead. It has responded well to treatment on the end of a C-Tek battery conditioner.
Well, we got in the car today (I'm helping Allan to try and fix this!)
The dash stays powered up, so the battery has been disconnected again.
Is this a syptom of just having to re-seat the ribbon connectors on the dash and ECU, or is this related to the F-Ram fault?
Just read a post saying it may just be a case of pulling a fuse to reset the dash, but having the battery out overnight should do the same thing, so is it likely to be something more sinister?
If not, where is the fuse, and which one do we have to pull?
If the battery is accessed by removing the wheel, I'm dreading to think where the fuse box is.
Yes, this is the first TVR I have worked on, so it's a learning experience...
Well, we got in the car today (I'm helping Allan to try and fix this!)
The dash stays powered up, so the battery has been disconnected again.
Is this a syptom of just having to re-seat the ribbon connectors on the dash and ECU, or is this related to the F-Ram fault?
Just read a post saying it may just be a case of pulling a fuse to reset the dash, but having the battery out overnight should do the same thing, so is it likely to be something more sinister?
If not, where is the fuse, and which one do we have to pull?
If the battery is accessed by removing the wheel, I'm dreading to think where the fuse box is.
Yes, this is the first TVR I have worked on, so it's a learning experience...
Fuse box above the pedal box, check what number it is by looking at diagram in owners hand book, or someone will be along with the number shortly?
Try disconnecting the dash ECU located behind a velcroed panel in the drivers side foot well, it can be traced by following the large electrical ribbons down from the dash to the foot well, the ecu is a large ish box approx 3 inch squared.
Good luck.
Try disconnecting the dash ECU located behind a velcroed panel in the drivers side foot well, it can be traced by following the large electrical ribbons down from the dash to the foot well, the ecu is a large ish box approx 3 inch squared.
Good luck.
Allan has just left my house in a happy mood.
We traced the issue down to a sticky/dodgy thermostat, so we have replaced that, checked the fans etc.
The coolant system now works as it should.
I also talked him into letting me replace the Dash ECU battery, which seems to have fixed some of the issues, but the FRAM fault is still there.
Edited to say: I hope he is still happy when he gets back to his place!
We traced the issue down to a sticky/dodgy thermostat, so we have replaced that, checked the fans etc.
The coolant system now works as it should.
I also talked him into letting me replace the Dash ECU battery, which seems to have fixed some of the issues, but the FRAM fault is still there.
Edited to say: I hope he is still happy when he gets back to his place!
Edited by CageyH on Friday 2nd March 17:53
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