Clutch problems

[philr]

I noticed this morning that the clutch is all soft until right at the bottom of the pedle travel. It is only at the bottom that there is any bite in the clutch, so usage is restricted.

Anyone care to suggest the problem. My fear is a new clutch, or clutch component (effectively the same thing in ££££) and this is on the back of a large service bill.
I was starting to forget about this side of TVR ovwnership !

I had a clutch replaced about 10k miles ago only and don't think I'm particularly hard on the thing.

[K4TRV]

Hi, Don't wish to state the obvious - but have you removed the cover and looked inside the master cylinder?? (its on the right-hand front wing under the bonnet and usually has the screws sealed as well - depends on whether YOU are a DIYer or you trust that Dealer did check it out during your Service) Darned sight cheaper than thinking about a new clutch!!

Same symptoms as mine earlier in the year - no fluid - just topped it up, left overnight, topped a little more screwed lid back on, re-sealed cover. Not had a problem since......;-))

Trev McM

>> Edited by K4TRV on Wednesday 7th July 10:41

[coach]

Yep

I had this too.

No fluid in master cylinder - watch for the air locks as these can compress though!

Coach

[philr]

Well guys, you were right. No fluid in the master cyliner.......and low and behold evidence of fluid running from the top of the clutch pedal area.

Looks like I need a new Master cyliner.

Any one know the approx cost for one of these + whetehr its cheaper from a motor parts (if what part No.) or from TVR.

Also, any hints/tips on the best way to carry out the work ?
Where are the pit falls etc.

cheers

Phil

[shnozz]

philr said:

Well guys, you were right. No fluid in the master cyliner.......and low and behold evidence of fluid running from the top of the clutch pedal area. Looks like I need a new Master cyliner. Any one know the approx cost for one of these + whetehr its cheaper from a motor parts (if what part No.) or from TVR. Also, any hints/tips on the best way to carry out the work ? Where are the pit falls etc. cheers Phil

www.tvrgear.com/ProductDetail.asp?ProductID=18681

just over £50. I bought mine a few weeks ago from tvrgear

[dlewis]

philr

Get one from your nearest TVR spares as I have been told they are modified.

Pretty straight forward but buy a new clevis pin at the same time, £2.

You will need a spanner on each end of the captive bolts and access to hold the lower bolt head is tricky.

I re-used the push rod to avoid adjustment problems.

On final filling I had an air bubble that only came out when tapping the reservoir.

>> Edited by dlewis on Monday 12th July 14:59

[K4TRV]

philr said:

Well guys, you were right. No fluid in the master cyliner.......and low and behold evidence of fluid running from the top of the clutch pedal area. Looks like I need a new Master cyliner. Any one know the approx cost for one of these + whetehr its cheaper from a motor parts (if what part No.) or from TVR. Also, any hints/tips on the best way to carry out the work ? Where are the pit falls etc. cheers Phil

Thanks for the feedback. Just hope you managed to fit the new Master Cylinder OK.

Trev McM

[philr]

What a mare !

The Master cylinder turned out to be straight forward enough, but the bloody nut connecting the pipe to the master wouldn't budge. In the end the nut has rounded badly and so I have ended up having to remove the entire pipe with the master cylinder.

Now, because the pipe and associated connectors are not standard brake pipe sizes, they are really hard to find any where. Finally tracked down Peter at TVR FIX in Ewell who is making me up a new pipe.

I wasn't intending to use the same push rod. How can you ? Its a fixed part of the cylinder isn't it ?

All the hard bit turned out to be OK and the supposedly easy bit a real pain.

Speaking of pain, I have bruised the side of my body soooo much trying to cram my head into the pedal box area. Just wait til I get the new pipe tomorrow and have to get back in there to refit it.

Still, you live and learn. That's another job I now know how to do on the Beast.

[ian8542]

The clutch master cylinder pushrod can be removed by releasing the circlip.
The cylinder itself is fitted to a variety of TVR's and are not currently available from Girling direct.
TVR only i'm afraid.

>> Edited by ian8542 on Monday 12th July 19:03

[herbie hammer]

Probably a silly question, but when you look into the cylinder and there is no fluid, how far do you fill it up as there doesnt seem to be any mark to help?

Also, being a bit of a novice with all things mechanical, is there any particular clutch fluid that I should use?

HH.

[the dodger]

Fill it up to the top (well nearly - don't spill it!). Use Universal Clutch and Brake Fluid to SAE J1703 (most are to this spec).

[wightman]

I have got had this problem yesterday, so after reading this post went out to the garage, bought clutch fluid and topped up. It was empty. pedal still soft untill last point as before but went into gear a lot easier. I really hope this helps it. Its great having this fourm to hand.

[Aaron C. Reskew]

wightman said:

I have got had this problem yesterday, so after reading this post went out to the garage, bought clutch fluid and topped up. It was empty. pedal still soft untill last point as before but went into gear a lot easier. I really hope this helps it. Its great having this fourm to hand.

If the MC was empty the fluid will probably be on your carpet or leaking from the slave cylinder. You should bleed the clutch slave cylinder first then check for leaks.