Griff Engine Removal

[Biggles101]

Not the usual how to.. But which is best. Removing with or without gearbox.
I'd like to take it out complete with the box but not sure if this is suitable as I have no lift so would have to put car on axle stands first. Advice from those in the know

[pjac67]

Hope everything's alright Matt? Or just looking for some extra horses?

Shout if you need an extra pair of hands...

See you soon.

Paul.

[Biggles101]

Yep all is OK just want to get it out clean up the crap and stop the oil leaks. Rear crank oil seal is weeping, power steering weeping, and usual culprit around the sump. You know me got to get it looking shiney
Thanks for the offer, I will take you up on it when the time comes

[Ant.]

Still have to get underneath for exhaust and prop.
Which gearbox do you have?

[TVR Beaver]

Can't you drop the box... remove the flywheel.. and do the rear oil seal from there?...
May be a better option if your on stands?

[dnb]

I'd be tempted to pull the engine and box out complete if you only have axle stands.
One word of warning - you need an engine hoist with a long reach, otherwise you can't pick it up at a decent balance point.

[Biggles101]

TVR Beaver said:

Can't you drop the box... remove the flywheel.. and do the rear oil seal from there?...
May be a better option if your on stands?

How easy is this?? what's the best way to lower the box? Hydraulic jack? How high do I have to get the car in the first place.

[Lunablack]

Done this job 4 times, twice on a precat with rover box, and twice on a 500 with T5... Every time I chose the take the whole lot out together....

You need to get the car as high as is reasonably possible as you need good access underneath, and room for the tail end of the box to swing down... It used to take me about half a day to get out, and best part of a day to put it back, working on my own...

[Biggles101]

Ant. said:

Still have to get underneath for exhaust and prop.
Which gearbox do you have?

Ant, It's a 96/7 500 so I'm assuming a T5 (reverse is into 5th then back)

Getting underneath isn't a problem but once I've dropped the propshaft I can't move the car at all. (single driveway with slight slope, but too steep to push a car up)

Really I need to hire a decent sized workshop for a few weeks. Anyone know of anything in the North Bristol area.

Matt

[Ant.]

Biggles101 said:

Ant, It's a 96/7 500 so I'm assuming a T5 (reverse is into 5th then back)

Getting underneath isn't a problem but once I've dropped the propshaft I can't move the car at all. (single driveway with slight slope, but too steep to push a car up)

Really I need to hire a decent sized workshop for a few weeks. Anyone know of anything in the North Bristol area.

Matt

In which case you can take the box off (only four bolts) and leave the bell housing on the engine.
You will have to lift the transmission inspection hatch (under the centre console) to release the gear linkage. Far easier to work on in a driveway than an LT77 box IMHO.
Engine will lift out with the bell housing in place.
Remove starter and clutch slave pipe whilst under there.

[Biggles101]

Ant, that makes sense and also reduces the length when lifting the engine out.

OK Daft bit now do I need to drain the box before removing the propshaft? I seem to remember from my Triumph days that once the shaft is out, if the box wasn't drained first then it was soon all over the floor!

Does anyone have a to do list in order before the box can be lowered.

Sorry guys it's been 20 years since I last took an engine/box out

[Ant.]

The T5 will drain its lube out of the output seal with the prop removed.

[DarkMatter]

Biggles101 said:

Does anyone have a to do list in order before the box can be lowered.

Off the top of my head....

Drain gearbox oil.
Remove rear anti-roll bar.
Remove exhaust (1 bolt at front into engine block, 1 U clamp, 6 bolts securing silencer tray to chassis, loosen rubber coupling at tail end).
Undo 4 nuts/bolts from prop/diff flange.
Remove propshaft. (tape a plastic bag around gearbox out put shaft to protect from dirt and to catch oil drips, protect propshaft end with plastic bag to keep out dirt.
Slacken handbrake cable and slide adjuster from it's mount.
Remove gear knob.
With handbrake lever vertical release 2 screws at the rear of tunnel cover, remove tunnel cover.
Remove fibreglass cover from transmission tunnel.
Remove gearbox remote control. (you may need to reach above the bellhousing and work 'blind' to remove the front mounting.
Unplug reversing light switch.
Loosen/remove gearbox mounts.
Loosen 4 bolts securing gearbox to bellhousing.
Support gearbox on trolley jack (I made a wooden support which I attached to the trolley jack.
Remove the 4 bolts securing gearbox to bellhousing.
Slide the gearbox out taking care not to let it's input shaft take all the weight.

Have I forgotten anything?

[TVR Beaver]

Sounds about right... you can then remove the bell housing whilst in.. clutch and fli-wheel.. and replace the seal, leaving the engine where it is?.... unless you do want to pull the engine also.....

[Biggles101]

Fantastic guys. The detail/knowledge here is just astounding! I do want to still pull the engine but dropping the box first really does making lifting the engine much easier. Cheers