Drive shaft boot split
Discussion
my drive shaft seals go quite regularly, every couple of thou.
I think the problem is the angle that the shafts run @ . cant do anything about that without big changes.I reckon what happens is that the gaiter gets crimped against the Lobro housing when on full droop and this eventually cuts through the rubber. Its even worse when your on the jacks with the springs and dampers off. I tie up my drive shafts when ime in this situation with some webbing straps to the front to back chassis tube. This prevents them being under pressure so if you have to rotate them it doesnt try to cut abig chunk off. Ask ted for a replacement ime sure he'll oblige
I think the problem is the angle that the shafts run @ . cant do anything about that without big changes.I reckon what happens is that the gaiter gets crimped against the Lobro housing when on full droop and this eventually cuts through the rubber. Its even worse when your on the jacks with the springs and dampers off. I tie up my drive shafts when ime in this situation with some webbing straps to the front to back chassis tube. This prevents them being under pressure so if you have to rotate them it doesnt try to cut abig chunk off. Ask ted for a replacement ime sure he'll oblige
DUBLE PUMPER said:
my drive shaft seals go quite regularly, every couple of thou.
I think the problem is the angle that the shafts run @ . cant do anything about that without big changes.I reckon what happens is that the gaiter gets crimped against the Lobro housing when on full droop and this eventually cuts through the rubber. Its even worse when your on the jacks with the springs and dampers off. I tie up my drive shafts when ime in this situation with some webbing straps to the front to back chassis tube. This prevents them being under pressure so if you have to rotate them it doesnt try to cut abig chunk off. Ask ted for a replacement ime sure he'll oblige
I agree, way to much angle on those drive shafts at static ride height, if you can drop the engine and box it will give better centre of gravity and longer shaft life plus you will get less power loss through the shafts if they are more inline.
I am chopping my bell housing to bits and reworking it so I can drop the thing as low as possible but doing all this involves changing the slave to a push type unit and running a smaller flywheel/clutch ass'y and then the bottom section can be chopped off and fitted with a flat plate. This puts the crank centre line down low and gives very little angle on the drive shafts but it is allot of work.
marky p said:
I am chopping my bell housing to bits and reworking it so I can drop the thing as low as possible but doing all this involves changing the slave to a push type unit and running a smaller flywheel/clutch ass'y and then the bottom section can be chopped off and fitted with a flat plate. This puts the crank centre line down low and gives very little angle on the drive shafts but it is allot of work.
You may also need to fit a custom exhaust system as dropping the engine may mean that the standard system won't clear the chassis cross members.
Alan 2 said:
I am chopping my bell housing to bits and reworking it so I can drop the thing as low as possible but doing all this involves changing the slave to a push type unit and running a smaller flywheel/clutch ass'y and then the bottom section can be chopped off and fitted with a flat plate. This puts the crank centre line down low and gives very little angle on the drive shafts but it is allot of work.
You may also need to fit a custom exhaust system as dropping the engine may mean that the standard system won't clear the chassis cross members.
What oil pan (sump) are you using? The 'usual' one only just clears the lower chassis memeber as it is!
Stig said:
marky p said:
I am chopping my bell housing to bits and reworking it so I can drop the thing as low as possible but doing all this involves changing the slave to a push type unit and running a smaller flywheel/clutch ass'y and then the bottom section can be chopped off and fitted with a flat plate. This puts the crank centre line down low and gives very little angle on the drive shafts but it is allot of work.
You may also need to fit a custom exhaust system as dropping the engine may mean that the standard system won't clear the chassis cross members.
What oil pan (sump) are you using? The 'usual' one only just clears the lower chassis memeber as it is!
Running a TVR AJP8 engine with dry sump so it will go down very low but wouldnt a dry sump chevy do the same?
It's turbo charged so I need to fabricate the manifolds and exhaust system plus I have to squeeze a set of cats in there also!
andygtt said:
cats and turbos under the ultima canopy....... now that will be a challege heat wise.
I'll be interested in the tricks you use to keep temps down, have you done a web site?
Dont have website yet but I will sort something out so I can put all of my pics on it.
Rear bodywork has been modified and so have the side pods to give much more flow into the back.
andygtt said:
cats and turbos under the ultima canopy....... now that will be a challege heat wise.
I'll be interested in the tricks you use to keep temps down, have you done a web site?
You mean you haven't seen MarkyP's photos yet? Crazy, wild, stuff going on in the back! Now this is a guy who knows his stuff!
Say Mark, let's throw 800hp into that bad boy, and go play at Le Mans! I'll do the fuel map tuning for you 
Cheers! -Mack
bigmack said:
cats and turbos under the ultima canopy....... now that will be a challege heat wise.
I'll be interested in the tricks you use to keep temps down, have you done a web site?
You mean you haven't seen MarkyP's photos yet? Crazy, wild, stuff going on in the back! Now this is a guy who knows his stuff!
-Mack
Mack,
You forgot to include the addy:
www.ultimaclub.us
....then go look at the "Gallery"...... THAT is gonna be a very custom GTR!!!
Dave
Thanks for reminding me Dave. A real good example of how to do things right. Mark has to tell us how he installed those front wheel arches with so little filler. After having done a lot of bodywork on my Sports, I can really appreciate the quality of his work. I can't wait to see the final product. I'm trying to encourage him to use a metallic colour of some kind to show off the curves.
Cheers!
-Mack
Cheers!
-Mack
doc_fudge said:
Mark,
Had a look at the Gallery and I must say....it looks great!!
What are you planning for the fuel tanks though?
Top notch stuff!!
Thanks for the nice comments guys,
Doc
Fuel bag sits across the centre of the car right up behind the seats so it is part way into the cockpit area, chassis is longer by 80mm to fit it in and the wheelbase is longer by 40mm. This shifted the engine weight forward and now the tank is in front of the engine also helping with front/rear weight distribution, also shifted the front wheel positions back a little to help with the front/rear weight.
It also has inboard shocks with push rods/rockers and other mods, I need to get a website sorted so you guys can see under the body etc, didnt realise there would be so much interest in it.
Cheers,
Mark.
marky p said:
It also has inboard shocks with push rods/rockers and other mods, I need to get a website sorted so you guys can see under the body etc, didnt realise there would be so much interest in it.
Are you kidding! Your car sounds like one of the most interesting Ultimas out there...much more so than the GT race car (which just seems to be wider with anti-roll bars front and back).
A website with more pictures would be fascinating to look at when you get there.
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