front wheel bearing
Discussion
GTO600 said:
Sounds like the tapered hole in the bottom of the alloy upright is oval/worn, is the bottom ball joint taper loose in the upright & does it tighten up properly ?
The bottom ball joint had run out if thread so put another washer on and it tightens up fine.. the play seems to be in wheel hub TuxMan said:
Is the play in the wheel or the upright ??
If in the wheel I would suggest upgrading to the new front hub bolts from the USA . Tux
Hi Tux theres no play in the upright just in the wheel.. i have replaced the bolt with a new one as the old one had been over tightened and head broken slightly.If in the wheel I would suggest upgrading to the new front hub bolts from the USA . Tux
When it went back together the washer on the inside had a locating sleeve which went inside the hub and the outside just had 1 big washer and nut..is that right?
I would of thought it would have a sleeved washer both sides?
Have you had the same problem then and the did the new bolt make any differnce.
Don't suppose you know where to get one.
Simon
simonx50 said:
Have replaced my front wheel bearing and ball joints due to some slight play(2nd bearing) trouble is it hasn't cured it i wondered if anyone has experienced the same.
Wondered if it might be the cast ali hub perhaps worn inside.
I've got all the bits (including hubs)to do the same mine but have been funking doing it, was it fairly easy?Wondered if it might be the cast ali hub perhaps worn inside.
Rob_W said:
I've got all the bits (including hubs)to do the same mine but have been funking doing it, was it fairly easy?
I took my upright off to do it and took it to someone to press the bearing and hub out. Not sure if theres an easier way to do it without removing upright.removed wheel, took off wheel and disc,removed caliper,undid ball joints with a slight tap removed, upright off undo bolt, press out hub bearing removing cer clip, put it all back the same way and hey presto still wobbles!!
simonx50 said:
Rob_W said:
I've got all the bits (including hubs)to do the same mine but have been funking doing it, was it fairly easy?
I took my upright off to do it and took it to someone to press the bearing and hub out. Not sure if theres an easier way to do it without removing upright.removed wheel, took off wheel and disc,removed caliper,undid ball joints with a slight tap removed, upright off undo bolt, press out hub bearing removing cer clip, put it all back the same way and hey presto still wobbles!!
simonx50 said:
Have replaced my front wheel bearing and ball joints due to some slight play(2nd bearing) trouble is it hasn't cured it i wondered if anyone has experienced the same.
Wondered if it might be the cast ali hub perhaps worn inside.
Hi Simon, did you ever get to the bottom of this? I've pressed in a pair of new bearings and I've got a small amount of play in one bearing, so I fitted another new bearing and it's exactly the same. There's definitely no play in the ball joints, but with someone rocking the wheel up and down I can see/feel the spindle moving within the upright. Strange thing is the play is only vertical, if you move the wheel side to side there's no play. It seems like the bearing is moving within the upright slightly but I can't see how this is possible? Did you ever find out what was wrong with yours? Or has anyone else had the same?Wondered if it might be the cast ali hub perhaps worn inside.
Going by how many cracked upright threads came up on the search maybe it's time someone done a group buy on adjustable billet uprights
Billet isn't the best way to go for uprights... Although agree maybe its time for us to make a costing of our own... I buy front cast blanks for £65 each for my GTT and then £150 machining each.... So £1k each hub is taking the piss big time.
I'd be interested in making the rear hub bigger internally so we can fit larger cv joints that can take the torque we are running and remove at least 1 weak point lol
I'd be interested in making the rear hub bigger internally so we can fit larger cv joints that can take the torque we are running and remove at least 1 weak point lol
Metalman said:
Hi Simon, did you ever get to the bottom of this? I've pressed in a pair of new bearings and I've got a small amount of play in one bearing, so I fitted another new bearing and it's exactly the same. There's definitely no play in the ball joints, but with someone rocking the wheel up and down I can see/feel the spindle moving within the upright. Strange thing is the play is only vertical, if you move the wheel side to side there's no play. It seems like the bearing is moving within the upright slightly but I can't see how this is possible? Did you ever find out what was wrong with yours? Or has anyone else had the same?
Going by how many cracked upright threads came up on the search maybe it's time someone done a group buy on adjustable billet uprights
Sorry to hear your having trouble Jason, I did get it fixed in the end I had to replace the upright luckily Dave at jetstream had a second hand one he fitted. Mine wasn't cracked I think it had just worn inside which prevented the bearing fitting tight inside.Going by how many cracked upright threads came up on the search maybe it's time someone done a group buy on adjustable billet uprights
sure I saw some on ebay the other day for £500. I agree they are expensive for what they are.
Thanks Simon exactly what I didn't want to hear lol, I kind of know its an upright issue I'm just hoping there could be something I've not thought of. I'll keep an eye out for a second hand replacement but I like gadge's idea of having it machined to take a sleeve or maybe an oversized bearing.
Is there an issue with the cv joints then andy? I could talk to the guy that made my spindles and see what he can do regarding new uprights, I've seen some of the uprights he makes (I think Indy car) and they look very good. Is billet not a good material to use, I thought it was supposed to be very strong and ideal for this type of application?
Is there an issue with the cv joints then andy? I could talk to the guy that made my spindles and see what he can do regarding new uprights, I've seen some of the uprights he makes (I think Indy car) and they look very good. Is billet not a good material to use, I thought it was supposed to be very strong and ideal for this type of application?
Well I'm not a metal expert and although I did have it explained to me yet again recently I still don't understand fully, however look at no expense spared machines and they are machined from castings, I was specifically asking about making a billet gearbox casing.
Not withstanding billet would be more than up to the job, just probably heavier lol... I'd be interested on what they had to say for both options :-)... I have spare rear uprights on the shelf if you want to give them one to discuss!
Not withstanding billet would be more than up to the job, just probably heavier lol... I'd be interested on what they had to say for both options :-)... I have spare rear uprights on the shelf if you want to give them one to discuss!
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