Slipping Clutch
Discussion
Having replaced the master cylinder and bled the system, I now appear to be suffering from a slipping clutch. Is there something I have done / not done when replacing the master cylinder which may have caused this or is it just coincidence that this has happened at the same time ?
The clutch was replaced about 11 months ago (5000 mls) and I'm not usually too heavy on wear.
Any help appreciated.
Bob
The clutch was replaced about 11 months ago (5000 mls) and I'm not usually too heavy on wear.
Any help appreciated.
Bob
Steve -I don't appear to be using any more oil than normal, although a small leak may not be noticable I suppose. The bearing was replaced with the clutch, I don't know about the pivot, I will have to find the invoice.
Ian/James - How do I know if the plunger rod is too far out ? I cut the new one to about the same length as the old one however the clutch pedal does appear to be a bit higher than it was before. I put that down to the master cylinder working properly. Do I need to take off a few more mm ?
>> Edited by Bob the Planner on Monday 12th July 07:32
Ian/James - How do I know if the plunger rod is too far out ? I cut the new one to about the same length as the old one however the clutch pedal does appear to be a bit higher than it was before. I put that down to the master cylinder working properly. Do I need to take off a few more mm ?
>> Edited by Bob the Planner on Monday 12th July 07:32
Just to put a spanner in the works.. sorry
I had a seal go in the gearbox that pi££ed oil all over the clutch which was making it slip. This was only when putting foot down in 4th and could also smell a slight smell of burning oil.. (god not more burning BTP
)
just another angle if all else fails to bear in mind
BB
I had a seal go in the gearbox that pi££ed oil all over the clutch which was making it slip. This was only when putting foot down in 4th and could also smell a slight smell of burning oil.. (god not more burning BTP
) just another angle if all else fails to bear in mind
BB
Bob the Planner said:
Steve -I don't appear to be using any more oil than normal, although a small leak may not be noticable I suppose. The bearing was replaced with the clutch, I don't know about the pivot, I will have to find the invoice.
>> Edited by Bob the Planner on Monday 12th July 07:32
You wouldn't if it was gearbox oil... It doesn't take much to contaminate the clutch anyway.
Have you fitted the right master cylinder? The bore is very important and if it is too small then the chances are there will be insufficient movement anyway. The fact that you had to cut the rod is a bit of a giveaway. The usual trick is to use the old one if there is a slight difference.
The pivot on the release arm can wear and this will reduce the amount of movement or cause it to stick.
Pages 215-222 in the bible.
>> Edited by shpub on Tuesday 13th July 07:26
The part number on both old and new ones is the same so I don't think there should be a bore problem - unless there is some other way of telling them apart. There is full movement on the master cylinder with the way it is set up at present, pedal does not hit the bulkhead when fully depressed and returns so that the rod is pushed against the retaining disc.
I still have the old master cylinder - how do you remove the rod ? It appears to be held in with a metal disc and if I can get it out I will replace the one thats in there at present. It doesn't appear to be covered in the bible as far as I can see.
Bob
I still have the old master cylinder - how do you remove the rod ? It appears to be held in with a metal disc and if I can get it out I will replace the one thats in there at present. It doesn't appear to be covered in the bible as far as I can see.
Bob
I'm watching this thread with interest as I am about to replace my master cylinder tonight.
I noticed that the rod on the old cylinder is bent - a bit worrying as I suspect that would mean the rod didn't push squarely on the piston and so could have worn early. Also that there are 2 holes in the clutch pedle arm, so I'm not sure which one to use at the moment.
Presumably the best thing to do is to fit the new cylinder with the rod in as near same position as before, and then adjust it with the thread/locknut if there are any problems.
What other pitfalls do I need to look out for ?
I noticed that the rod on the old cylinder is bent - a bit worrying as I suspect that would mean the rod didn't push squarely on the piston and so could have worn early. Also that there are 2 holes in the clutch pedle arm, so I'm not sure which one to use at the moment.
Presumably the best thing to do is to fit the new cylinder with the rod in as near same position as before, and then adjust it with the thread/locknut if there are any problems.
What other pitfalls do I need to look out for ?
Well I got the master cyliner replaced last night...the new pipe was a reall b***ard and I'm sure the new one was a few inches shorter than the old one !
Anyway, I ended up guestimating where to set the rod mainily based on how much travel I wanted before hitting full depression of the clutch.
Everything seems to be OK. Only done a quick test run but clutch seems fine and no slipping.
I'll try it out properly at the weekend.
Anyway, I ended up guestimating where to set the rod mainily based on how much travel I wanted before hitting full depression of the clutch.
Everything seems to be OK. Only done a quick test run but clutch seems fine and no slipping.
I'll try it out properly at the weekend.
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