New Cerbera - Minor Issues
Discussion
Ok. List of things I think need sorting. Any guidance as to where I can find advice on these. Thanks chaps.
1. Starting. I suspect this is voltage related, so have just bought a trickle charger to leave the car plugged in overnight. However, on starting today, I did the usual, unlock using keyfob climbed in, pushed the starter, and pushed the keyfob again, expecting to push the starter a 2nd time and have it flick into life. But no, the MIL light came on a stayed on and no turn over or anything from the engine (Immobiliser?). I blipped the keyfob twice again, and same thing. So I waited 2 mins, repeat and the car sprung into life. So, somewhat riskily I headed out to the local Halfords for a few basic bits (charger, autoglym gear, trolley jack & axle stands) and on restarting this time, the car started on the first push of the starter. This concerns me - it just doesn't seem consistent, although I am aware that problems of this nature are not uncommon.
2. Slight whiff of fuel. Didn't notice it at all yesterday, however it does seem there is a light whiff of fuel around the car. Is this typical with the 4.5 V8? Bearing in mind most of the high-powered cars I've owned have been ultra-modern german/jap types with turbos in most cases, none with V8s.
3. Water temp goes quite high when in traffic, typically around 95-105 depending on circumstances, but drops considerably at speed (70-80). Not surprised by this, but guidance as to the right variations would be appreciated. Oil pressure seems ok, around 40-50 when idle, and increases up to around 80, & stays consistent, when the engine is under load and warm.
4. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get warm air to the drivers foot well, or even onto my lap! I suspect this is a design issue, but would welcome advice!
Other even more minor things needing attention:
-Driver's seatbelt needs the tensioner sorting.
-Driver's seat back adjuster lever hard to get to as the gap between bolster & door/sill is tight.
-Headlights could be brighter. Perhaps the headlamp covers need cleaning. Is it possible to upgrade the standard light fittings so I can install Xenons?
Cheers,
Mike
1. Starting. I suspect this is voltage related, so have just bought a trickle charger to leave the car plugged in overnight. However, on starting today, I did the usual, unlock using keyfob climbed in, pushed the starter, and pushed the keyfob again, expecting to push the starter a 2nd time and have it flick into life. But no, the MIL light came on a stayed on and no turn over or anything from the engine (Immobiliser?). I blipped the keyfob twice again, and same thing. So I waited 2 mins, repeat and the car sprung into life. So, somewhat riskily I headed out to the local Halfords for a few basic bits (charger, autoglym gear, trolley jack & axle stands) and on restarting this time, the car started on the first push of the starter. This concerns me - it just doesn't seem consistent, although I am aware that problems of this nature are not uncommon.
2. Slight whiff of fuel. Didn't notice it at all yesterday, however it does seem there is a light whiff of fuel around the car. Is this typical with the 4.5 V8? Bearing in mind most of the high-powered cars I've owned have been ultra-modern german/jap types with turbos in most cases, none with V8s.
3. Water temp goes quite high when in traffic, typically around 95-105 depending on circumstances, but drops considerably at speed (70-80). Not surprised by this, but guidance as to the right variations would be appreciated. Oil pressure seems ok, around 40-50 when idle, and increases up to around 80, & stays consistent, when the engine is under load and warm.
4. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get warm air to the drivers foot well, or even onto my lap! I suspect this is a design issue, but would welcome advice!
Other even more minor things needing attention:
-Driver's seatbelt needs the tensioner sorting.
-Driver's seat back adjuster lever hard to get to as the gap between bolster & door/sill is tight.
-Headlights could be brighter. Perhaps the headlamp covers need cleaning. Is it possible to upgrade the standard light fittings so I can install Xenons?
Cheers,
Mike
1) - Call Carl, he da man on TVR Immobiliser http://www.tvruk.tv/www.tvruk.tv/contactus.html
2) Can't comment, my is a SP6, no smell of fuel
3) As above, my temp max is normally 95
4) The vents for hot and cold are different. i.e each vent is either hot or cold. The dash vents are cold only, the windscreen and vents under the dash (could be closed) are hot air
That is some oil pressure
mine when fires sits at 60 on cold idle.drops to 50 on hot idle,and at load i get a max 65...so 80 is well up there.
cabin temps are s
te....nuff said, just buy a comfy jacket thats what i did
lights are ok in the day......dont go out at night
your starting issue will most probably be an immobiliser issue.mine did this loads when i first got the car.....sorted now
mine when fires sits at 60 on cold idle.drops to 50 on hot idle,and at load i get a max 65...so 80 is well up there.cabin temps are s
te....nuff said, just buy a comfy jacket thats what i did
lights are ok in the day......dont go out at night
your starting issue will most probably be an immobiliser issue.mine did this loads when i first got the car.....sorted now

Check your flexible fuel lines NOW!!! There should not be a smell of fuel.
Inside the near side rear wheel arch for the lines to the fuel pump and filter. Under the coolant reservoir for the engine bay fuel lines. There are hard lines through the body of the car that are unlikely to be a problem but the rubber pipes that attach to them need checking.
Having had an engine bay fuel leak with petrol spraying across a hot exhaust - I still don't know how I didn't have a major fire - it is not a chance worth taking.
The temperature is quite possibly the gauge over reading - connect up a lap top and see what the ECU says. It is very common for the actual temperature to be 10 degrees lower than the gauge reading.
Inside the near side rear wheel arch for the lines to the fuel pump and filter. Under the coolant reservoir for the engine bay fuel lines. There are hard lines through the body of the car that are unlikely to be a problem but the rubber pipes that attach to them need checking.
Having had an engine bay fuel leak with petrol spraying across a hot exhaust - I still don't know how I didn't have a major fire - it is not a chance worth taking.
The temperature is quite possibly the gauge over reading - connect up a lap top and see what the ECU says. It is very common for the actual temperature to be 10 degrees lower than the gauge reading.
What MY is your Cerbera? In relation to hot air into the driver's footwell, there is a knee vent tucked up right towards the back of the footwell. You won't be able to see it, just reach around the left hand side of the dash and you'll stumble across it eventually. I discovered mine last week after eight months of ownership! Also check the vents in the middle of the dash are open (you can barely see them on the early cars due to their location, tucked underneath the top side of the dash).
Water temp on mine regularly hits 105 in traffic, usually 80 on the move just like yours. Its not a problem providing the fans are coming on, just an inaccurate gauge. Getting the headlights upgraded to HIDs is inexpensive and makes a HUGE difference. Lots of places will do it.
Your oil pressure sounds a tad high but again the gauges are none too accurate.
If you're concerned about the immobiliser get hold of Carl Baker http://www.tvruk.tv/www.tvruk.tv/index-2.html, he'll fix it and sell you some decent fobs as well.
Your oil pressure sounds a tad high but again the gauges are none too accurate.
If you're concerned about the immobiliser get hold of Carl Baker http://www.tvruk.tv/www.tvruk.tv/index-2.html, he'll fix it and sell you some decent fobs as well.
mickydoo said:
4. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get warm air to the drivers foot well, or even onto my lap! I suspect this is a design issue, but would welcome advice!
This is exactly the same as my 4.5 was - the drivers footwell was the very last place to get any heat!! I had to shut down all the other vents and only then would I get ahny heat down there. My advice is to wear two pairs of socks.Had similar issue on mine with immobiliser which lives behind the helmet holder in between the rear seats. I could lock / unlock doors but upon pressing black button got nothing. Immobiliser worked off immobiliser key but not blipper. There is a connecter attached to the wiring going to the immobilser, disconnect it, spray connections with contact cleaner. Worked for me 
If you have an early car then lights are like candles
According to an article in sprint there is an upgrade available to enable retaining the original look using vw lupo light units is about £600 though

If you have an early car then lights are like candles
According to an article in sprint there is an upgrade available to enable retaining the original look using vw lupo light units is about £600 thoughJames45LW said:
mickydoo said:
4. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get warm air to the drivers foot well, or even onto my lap! I suspect this is a design issue, but would welcome advice!
This is exactly the same as my 4.5 was - the drivers footwell was the very last place to get any heat!! I had to shut down all the other vents and only then would I get ahny heat down there. My advice is to wear two pairs of socks.Evening Bob, opening the eyeball vent in the depths of the drivers footwell helps with the hot air although your right leg gets toasted more than the left, and make sure the cold air vent is shut properly!!, a full re-map sorted the petrol smell out and yes the dip beam is rubbish.
Water temp hits 100 and cooling chip kicks both fans in and it soon drops back not been an issue even in traffic, i would go down the HID route for the lights.
Water temp hits 100 and cooling chip kicks both fans in and it soon drops back not been an issue even in traffic, i would go down the HID route for the lights.
mickydoo said:
2. Slight whiff of fuel. Didn't notice it at all yesterday, however it does seem there is a light whiff of fuel around the car. Is this typical with the 4.5 V8? Bearing in mind most of the high-powered cars I've owned have been ultra-modern german/jap types with turbos in most cases, none with V8s.
Mine developed a good whiff of fuel and turned out to be a leaking rubber O-ring seal on one of the injectors.You could see it seeping out just under the fuel rail.
Replaced complete set and been fine since.
Morning gents.
The light "whiff" of fuel may well be due to the fact that I just had a small shed installed not 15metres from where the car is located, and I think I am actually smelling the creosote!! Haha.
I shall have a good look in the engine bay, and also at the fuel lines, and if all looks good will take her for a spin later this week, perhaps go for a walk at the beach, and check for the smell on returning to the car in a different location.
Thanks for all the replies, in any case, I'll have a good read and follow the links as I find time over the next couple of weeks.
In any case - I've achieved one of the major dreams in my life, by allowing myself permission to buy this beautiful work of engineering art. And it all started in my mid-20s with the Clarkson supercar shoot out video....I bet there's a few of us that could say the same :-)
The light "whiff" of fuel may well be due to the fact that I just had a small shed installed not 15metres from where the car is located, and I think I am actually smelling the creosote!! Haha.
I shall have a good look in the engine bay, and also at the fuel lines, and if all looks good will take her for a spin later this week, perhaps go for a walk at the beach, and check for the smell on returning to the car in a different location.
Thanks for all the replies, in any case, I'll have a good read and follow the links as I find time over the next couple of weeks.
In any case - I've achieved one of the major dreams in my life, by allowing myself permission to buy this beautiful work of engineering art. And it all started in my mid-20s with the Clarkson supercar shoot out video....I bet there's a few of us that could say the same :-)
I bougth the ATF from nielsencdg on ebay for £7.50 per litre plus carriage. He also does Mobil 1 at a very good price.
I chased slight fuel smells on mine for a while, again it turned out to be one leaking injector o-ring. I also found that it had the tendency to leak a few drops of the residual fuel from the injectors onto the butterflies after it was switched off. I am not sure whether this is correct but as i suspect it adds to the starup bark when starting from warm i didnt try to stop it.
Mine has tended to have 60psi oil pressure at startup going down to 55 warm ticking over (on Mobil 1 0W40). But I just changed the oil and filter and the cold value is now over 70 as is the high revs warm value, I am not sure why this is so as this didnt happen on the last change. Given its the same oil as before and that had only done 2300 miles i dont know why it has gone up so much mayybe the different filter ?
Mine gets plenty of hot air into the footwell from the big vent on the tunnel, there is however a cold draft from under the steering wheel which was redced by properly sealing the cold pipes to the eyeball vents and then stuffing a tennis ball into the right hand intake. But I do get a lot of comments on how fast i must have been going when i hit the dog with the ball in its mouth.
I chased slight fuel smells on mine for a while, again it turned out to be one leaking injector o-ring. I also found that it had the tendency to leak a few drops of the residual fuel from the injectors onto the butterflies after it was switched off. I am not sure whether this is correct but as i suspect it adds to the starup bark when starting from warm i didnt try to stop it.
Mine has tended to have 60psi oil pressure at startup going down to 55 warm ticking over (on Mobil 1 0W40). But I just changed the oil and filter and the cold value is now over 70 as is the high revs warm value, I am not sure why this is so as this didnt happen on the last change. Given its the same oil as before and that had only done 2300 miles i dont know why it has gone up so much mayybe the different filter ?
Mine gets plenty of hot air into the footwell from the big vent on the tunnel, there is however a cold draft from under the steering wheel which was redced by properly sealing the cold pipes to the eyeball vents and then stuffing a tennis ball into the right hand intake. But I do get a lot of comments on how fast i must have been going when i hit the dog with the ball in its mouth.
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