Octavia VRS buying guide
Discussion
I have a Mk.1, and to be honest, both Mk.1's and 2's don't have any real special faults to look out for.
The only things which might play up are coil packs (of which there is now a TSB for dealers to replace FOC) and occasionally the throttle assembly requires removal and cleaning, again a simple job.
Also the Mk.1's can suffer from front ARB bush wear, but the later ones and new parts are now modified. A new unit is 50 quid.
Other than that - a reliable, practical performance bargain!
Get youself over to Briskoda though, a great resource - here's a link
The only things which might play up are coil packs (of which there is now a TSB for dealers to replace FOC) and occasionally the throttle assembly requires removal and cleaning, again a simple job.
Also the Mk.1's can suffer from front ARB bush wear, but the later ones and new parts are now modified. A new unit is 50 quid.
Other than that - a reliable, practical performance bargain!
Get youself over to Briskoda though, a great resource - here's a link
We bought a petrol one just before Christmas. I can't offer a massive amount of insight, but what I found:
Be wary of the ABS/ESP light being on - there's a common failure in one of the bits of electronics which is rather expensive to fix. Similarly make sure the light comes on when you switch the ESP off, or it's probably broken and someone has removed the bulbs.
Avoid the 18 inch wheels. They're absolute rubbish.
"briskoda.net" has a fair amount of information on it if you hunt.
Be wary of the ABS/ESP light being on - there's a common failure in one of the bits of electronics which is rather expensive to fix. Similarly make sure the light comes on when you switch the ESP off, or it's probably broken and someone has removed the bulbs.
Avoid the 18 inch wheels. They're absolute rubbish.
"briskoda.net" has a fair amount of information on it if you hunt.
I've had 2x Mk2's, both diesels, both pre and post facelift. In the pre-facelift I was plagued with exhaust pressure sensor problems, had to have the turbo replaced 6 weeks out of warranty, the following month the air-con compressor went, then the month after that one of the injectors failed. Having read up on these problems it seems they affected the whole VAG range at that time (2007), so not just Skoda.
Having said that I did do about 85k miles in 2 years in it, and strangely enough I bought another, but got the facelifted version and it is SO much better. Has the common rail engine so is a lot smoother and quieter, it's better refined, and the front end looks a lot better with the sleeker headlights / DRLs.
For the deal I got, I couldn't find anything else new that came close in terms of practicality, refinement, cost to run, and fun to drive (ok, it's no proper sports car, but good for a sub 20k 'hot' hatch).
The service at the dealership is excellent, and don't think I've ever paid more than £200 for a service - get the equivalent VW / Audi / Seat and you'd spend a lot more, as I've found out in the past...
As others have said, take a look on Briskoda.net, there's loads of advice on there.
Having said that I did do about 85k miles in 2 years in it, and strangely enough I bought another, but got the facelifted version and it is SO much better. Has the common rail engine so is a lot smoother and quieter, it's better refined, and the front end looks a lot better with the sleeker headlights / DRLs.
For the deal I got, I couldn't find anything else new that came close in terms of practicality, refinement, cost to run, and fun to drive (ok, it's no proper sports car, but good for a sub 20k 'hot' hatch).
The service at the dealership is excellent, and don't think I've ever paid more than £200 for a service - get the equivalent VW / Audi / Seat and you'd spend a lot more, as I've found out in the past...
As others have said, take a look on Briskoda.net, there's loads of advice on there.
kambites said:
Be wary of the ABS/ESP light being on - there's a common failure in one of the bits of electronics which is rather expensive to fix. Similarly make sure the light comes on when you switch the ESP off, or it's probably broken and someone has removed the bulbs.
I believe this is a problem with all VAG group cars based on the MK5 Golf. Cars with the simpler ASR traction control system (Anti Slip Regulation, which just retards the throttle when it detects a loss of traction) are fine. However the more advanced ESP system (Electronic Stability Program, which uses the brakes to control each wheel to prevent loss of traction) suffer from a surprisingly high failure rate of the ABS pump/module that operates the ABS and ESP systems. A new pump costs about £1200 + labour, but the pumps fail so often that there is UK engineering company that now rebuilds them for about £250.GoodDoc said:
kambites said:
Be wary of the ABS/ESP light being on - there's a common failure in one of the bits of electronics which is rather expensive to fix. Similarly make sure the light comes on when you switch the ESP off, or it's probably broken and someone has removed the bulbs.
I believe this is a problem with all VAG group cars based on the MK5 Golf. Cars with the simpler ASR traction control system (Anti Slip Regulation, which just retards the throttle when it detects a loss of traction) are fine. However the more advanced ESP system (Electronic Stability Program, which uses the brakes to control each wheel to prevent loss of traction) suffer from a surprisingly high failure rate of the ABS pump/module that operates the ABS and ESP systems. A new pump costs about £1200 + labour, but the pumps fail so often that there is UK engineering company that now rebuilds them for about £250.the fury said:
Does anyone know when the cambelt change is due on the MK2 version (petrol)?
4 years or 60k miles. Water pump done at the same time ideally (although probably more important if it's a 60k mileage change rather than a 4 year change on a lower mileage car).kambites said:
Avoid the 18 inch wheels. They're absolute rubbish.
What's up with the 18" wheels?I have standard 18s with summer tyres and some VW Golf 16s with winters.
The ride is worse and the steering is heavier when I move over to the 18s but it only takes a day or 2 to get used to it. Never had 17s fitted...
blank said:
kambites said:
Avoid the 18 inch wheels. They're absolute rubbish.
What's up with the 18" wheels?I have standard 18s with summer tyres and some VW Golf 16s with winters.
The ride is worse and the steering is heavier when I move over to the 18s but it only takes a day or 2 to get used to it. Never had 17s fitted...
ks!
Lots of useful info on BriSkoda which helped during recent viewing of one in Oxford with a friend recently, which to be fair was in excellent condition with lots of receipts with a majority of OEM parts, but the seller would not reduce the price to take into account a couple of potential issues ie Cambelt was due if he were to follow the 60-65K change interval as advised by Skoda (this was changed after the service book was released). Cosmetically it was reasonable for a 6yr old car usual stone chips but for a car that was clean including the awkward door shuts etc, he had left the original worn out mats in it.
Look out for Dual Mass Flywheel ... but we all know what these can be like. £1200ish
Also search the web, it is amazing what crops up.
Max speed on Autobahn trips
Questions about how to self-maintain
Nonetheless the search continues
Look out for Dual Mass Flywheel ... but we all know what these can be like. £1200ish
Also search the web, it is amazing what crops up.
Max speed on Autobahn trips
Questions about how to self-maintain
Nonetheless the search continues
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