Broken down before I got it
Discussion
As most of you know, I decided to buy a V8S, raised the cash today, agreed delivery from the owner, who now cant deliver as its got a problem. Hes not a PH'er (is a tvrcc member) and asked me to post this here. Please email him a cc of the reply as well as posting here. My thanks from us both if anyone can help. His email is rodney@rastridge.freeserve.co.uk
"I changed the water over flow pipe, restarted the engine, and the car started normally. Then, after three seconds, the engine died. I checked the spark from the coil through a good plug, and the spark is weak. Suspect the ignition amplifier or coil, are these sourced from range rover and does anyone have any suggestions. I’m not sure if the fuel pump is functioning correctly because when the ignition is switched on the fuel pump does not run, even when the engine is run for 10-15 seconds. Also, the plugs are not wet. What triggers the pump to run, does the engine need to fire, is this controlled by the ECU in some way? Is there an online workshop manual for a V8S (1991) in particular a wiring diagram – and where is the fuse box."
"I changed the water over flow pipe, restarted the engine, and the car started normally. Then, after three seconds, the engine died. I checked the spark from the coil through a good plug, and the spark is weak. Suspect the ignition amplifier or coil, are these sourced from range rover and does anyone have any suggestions. I’m not sure if the fuel pump is functioning correctly because when the ignition is switched on the fuel pump does not run, even when the engine is run for 10-15 seconds. Also, the plugs are not wet. What triggers the pump to run, does the engine need to fire, is this controlled by the ECU in some way? Is there an online workshop manual for a V8S (1991) in particular a wiring diagram – and where is the fuse box."
Sorry to hear this bob. Don't think I can help much. I know that the fuse box can be found above the passengers feet, behind the trim panel. I also know that the fuel pumps should 'buzz' for 2 or 3 seconds to prime when the ignition is first switched on. If this is not happening it could be the pump is faulty, a fuse or relay has blown, or an immobiliser problem!
Don't think there is an online manual, but a copy of the 'bible' is always my first coice. I ave mine here if there is anything I can help with!
Thanks Pete. Do you think you could email Rodney for me, and offer to help him with the bible?
If a beer drinking bystander was required to cheer him on I could manage that but Rod (the owner) lives 2 hours away, and theres nothing I can do to help.
Rod said it would be a good idea to post his address, so... if anyone has any other suggestions, just mail him and post here also.
Im gutted, feeling shite about not getting the car
If a beer drinking bystander was required to cheer him on I could manage that but Rod (the owner) lives 2 hours away, and theres nothing I can do to help.
Rod said it would be a good idea to post his address, so... if anyone has any other suggestions, just mail him and post here also.
Im gutted, feeling shite about not getting the car
Here is Rod's reply. If anyone has any suggestions, it would be fab if you could drop him an email: rodney@rastridge.freeserve.co.uk
"The pump buzzed as usual just before I started the engine, it fired OK & ran 3 or 4 seconds, then cut dead Obviously electrical? - unlikely to be fuel pump, as it would have spluttered a bit before dying, also, unlikely to be injector supply, as each bank of 4 is fed independently fron 2 different pins on the ecu. Checked spark directly from coil to a new B5ECS plug - looked rather weak, so I suspect either the coil or ignition amplifier. I could check these out if I knew their source & correect operating parameters; does Steve Heath's bible give any info on them? I'm pretty sure the ignition amplifier is a standard Lucas part, fitted to every Rover of that era (1991 - ~1999), but I have no info on checking it - I have plenty of diagnostic tools available - I'm an engineer - I just don't have any TVR specific info"
"The pump buzzed as usual just before I started the engine, it fired OK & ran 3 or 4 seconds, then cut dead Obviously electrical? - unlikely to be fuel pump, as it would have spluttered a bit before dying, also, unlikely to be injector supply, as each bank of 4 is fed independently fron 2 different pins on the ecu. Checked spark directly from coil to a new B5ECS plug - looked rather weak, so I suspect either the coil or ignition amplifier. I could check these out if I knew their source & correect operating parameters; does Steve Heath's bible give any info on them? I'm pretty sure the ignition amplifier is a standard Lucas part, fitted to every Rover of that era (1991 - ~1999), but I have no info on checking it - I have plenty of diagnostic tools available - I'm an engineer - I just don't have any TVR specific info"
Hey peeps. Got another email from Rod tonight, who has still not fixed - but is trying to patch up - the V8S Im hoping to buy from him tomorrow.
<paranoia> I dont know if there is anyone that can help following these latest light shedding (or not) comments, but here are his latest thoughts (sent via email) after I suggested that the immobiliser might possibly be the fault... Probably a naff guess, but you can imagine how much I want him to sort the problems out, and my limited knowlege of cars isnt lending itself favourably to the situation</paranoia>
<I>"The immobiliser cuts the starter solenoid circuit -that is obviously OK as the starter spins the engine. Unless there are some proper (graduate, time-served...) engineers on Pistonheads, I doubt they can help; I just need full technical data for a few key components, which should be available from a Range-Rover workshop manual."</i>
Ignore his harsh comments about phers... hes an engineer and likes to do things his way. Ive seen 1001 problems sorted by phers on ph, and thought my pointing him here would be the most sensible thing to do
Anyone got any suggestions to email him? I keep pointing him to ph, telling him to sign up, but he wants to visit the library instead. I get the impression he knows what hes doing (technically) but doesnt know what he needs to do (technically) (if that makes sense) as he needs to refer to a manual.
Im paranoid!
<paranoia> I dont know if there is anyone that can help following these latest light shedding (or not) comments, but here are his latest thoughts (sent via email) after I suggested that the immobiliser might possibly be the fault... Probably a naff guess, but you can imagine how much I want him to sort the problems out, and my limited knowlege of cars isnt lending itself favourably to the situation</paranoia>
<I>"The immobiliser cuts the starter solenoid circuit -that is obviously OK as the starter spins the engine. Unless there are some proper (graduate, time-served...) engineers on Pistonheads, I doubt they can help; I just need full technical data for a few key components, which should be available from a Range-Rover workshop manual."</i>
Ignore his harsh comments about phers... hes an engineer and likes to do things his way. Ive seen 1001 problems sorted by phers on ph, and thought my pointing him here would be the most sensible thing to do
Anyone got any suggestions to email him? I keep pointing him to ph, telling him to sign up, but he wants to visit the library instead. I get the impression he knows what hes doing (technically) but doesnt know what he needs to do (technically) (if that makes sense) as he needs to refer to a manual. Im paranoid!
UKbob said:
Here is Rod's reply. If anyone has any suggestions, it would be fab if you could drop him an email: rodney@rastridge.freeserve.co.uk
"The pump buzzed as usual just before I started the engine, it fired OK & ran 3 or 4 seconds, then cut dead Obviously electrical? - unlikely to be fuel pump, as it would have spluttered a bit before dying, also, unlikely to be injector supply, as each bank of 4 is fed independently fron 2 different pins on the ecu. Checked spark directly from coil to a new B5ECS plug - looked rather weak, so I suspect either the coil or ignition amplifier. I could check these out if I knew their source & correect operating parameters; does Steve Heath's bible give any info on them? I'm pretty sure the ignition amplifier is a standard Lucas part, fitted to every Rover of that era (1991 - ~1999), but I have no info on checking it - I have plenty of diagnostic tools available - I'm an engineer - I just don't have any TVR specific info"
I don't think you can forget the fuel pump just yet. If the fuel pump dies, the engine will stop pretty quickly as the fuel pressure dies away. You will only get spluttering from an engine with carbs, as the float chamber empties.
Tell him to run a direct fused feed from the battery to the fuel pump (possibly an earth too). If the pump and the engine run, then you have found your fault.
Its fixed, Its coming, and Im bouncing off the walls of my padded cell like a loonie in anticipation 
Im sorry I cant explain it better, but some wires were poorly connected/setup, and came loose when he refitted the water overflow pipe. He's re-wiring whatever came loose properly, and cursing the main dealers of the past (or whoever did the job initially) and says it'll be sorted properly this time.
Right... only 8 hours to go
Im sorry I cant explain it better, but some wires were poorly connected/setup, and came loose when he refitted the water overflow pipe. He's re-wiring whatever came loose properly, and cursing the main dealers of the past (or whoever did the job initially) and says it'll be sorted properly this time.
Right... only 8 hours to go
UKbob said:
Its fixed, Its coming, and Im bouncing off the walls of my padded cell like a loonie in anticipation
Im sorry I cant explain it better, but some wires were poorly connected/setup, and came loose when he refitted the water overflow pipe. He's re-wiring whatever came loose properly, and cursing the main dealers of the past (or whoever did the job initially) and says it'll be sorted properly this time.
Right... only 8 hours to go
I can just see you now UkBob
Have fun Mike
Hi Bob,
I'm glad that it's all sorted out now and that you'll be enjoying your V8S soon.
Just wanted to say really that it is worth checking electrical connections on an S first before suspecting component failure, the S electrics aren't the best and you can save a lot of money by doing a few checks before replacing parts.
So, you must be wishing the day away and getting really excited now!!
I'm glad that it's all sorted out now and that you'll be enjoying your V8S soon.
Just wanted to say really that it is worth checking electrical connections on an S first before suspecting component failure, the S electrics aren't the best and you can save a lot of money by doing a few checks before replacing parts.
So, you must be wishing the day away and getting really excited now!!
kentishS2 said:
Just wanted to say really that it is worth checking electrical connections on an S first before suspecting component failure, the S electrics aren't the best and you can save a lot of money by doing a few checks before replacing parts.
So, you must be wishing the day away and getting really excited now!!
Thanks mate
I will buy the holy bible, build a shrine, do what makes sense and start learning about the car - Ive heard many times the electrics are usually at fault. I dunno about wishing the day away. Ive got a months worth of work to do before it arrives, and know that when it does arrive, I wont be working!!
I'll have to mail my clients some pics - if they dont understand my abandoning them, tough 
Good to hear Bob.
Shame I wasn't on last night, as my first thought would have been to check that he hadn't dislodged any wires when changing the hose. Coming from an electrical background myself, you tend to find that clutzy engineers often cause this kind of fault. If they can't hit it with a hammer or tighten it with a spanner, then it just gets 'moved' out of the way.
Andy
Shame I wasn't on last night, as my first thought would have been to check that he hadn't dislodged any wires when changing the hose. Coming from an electrical background myself, you tend to find that clutzy engineers often cause this kind of fault. If they can't hit it with a hammer or tighten it with a spanner, then it just gets 'moved' out of the way.
Andy
Hi Bob,
Glad to hear that you are moving again.
I have spent weeks trying to sort out my intermittant fuel pump power supply problem and I still don't think I am getting very far.
I am at a bit of a loss to understand which wires he managed to work loose when he was fitting the water pump, but as every car is not the same maybe you have some earth points at the front of the car.
As for PH solving problems, many people on here have tracked wiring probelms, changed and upgraded various components, stripped engines and performed complete restorations on our cars, so the answere is usually forthcoming online. You just have to wake up the right people.
Z
Glad to hear that you are moving again.
I have spent weeks trying to sort out my intermittant fuel pump power supply problem and I still don't think I am getting very far. I am at a bit of a loss to understand which wires he managed to work loose when he was fitting the water pump, but as every car is not the same maybe you have some earth points at the front of the car.
As for PH solving problems, many people on here have tracked wiring probelms, changed and upgraded various components, stripped engines and performed complete restorations on our cars, so the answere is usually forthcoming online. You just have to wake up the right people.
Z
Thanks Chromozone. Im not going into TVR ownership blind and am sure I'll have my share of niggles - just hope not too many, and none too serious!!
Ive been reading ph for years, and have always seen phers to be competant and helpful, an enjoyable place to come for good support, and was gutted when the bloke whose selling didnt want to join to get help.
The twin turbo negative ego kicked in, and I envisaged not getting the car for weeks. I recon when it comes to worrying, Negatron should be my login name or summin.
Right, gotta get some work done, so I can hopefully go out to play with my new toy when it arrives
edited because I cant type anything that makes sense, due to overexcitment etc
>> Edited by UKbob on Tuesday 13th July 10:48
Ive been reading ph for years, and have always seen phers to be competant and helpful, an enjoyable place to come for good support, and was gutted when the bloke whose selling didnt want to join to get help.
The twin turbo negative ego kicked in, and I envisaged not getting the car for weeks. I recon when it comes to worrying, Negatron should be my login name or summin.
Right, gotta get some work done, so I can hopefully go out to play with my new toy when it arrives
edited because I cant type anything that makes sense, due to overexcitment etc
>> Edited by UKbob on Tuesday 13th July 10:48
z_chromozone said:
Hi Bob,
Glad to hear that you are moving again.
I am at a bit of a loss to understand which wires he managed to work loose when he was fitting the water pump, but as every car is not the same maybe you have some earth points at the front of the car.
As for PH solving problems, many people on here have tracked wiring probelms, changed and upgraded various components, stripped engines and performed complete restorations on our cars, so the answere is usually forthcoming online. You just have to wake up the right people.
Z
Hi Z,
I had a similar problem with my pump, it sounded like it was working but I kept breaking down due to lack of fuel. I could still here the pump running.
It turned out to be the pump, it was clogged up with sh*te I guess and eventually seized.
I couldn't find any other faults until it failed completely, had me puzzled for a while though.
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