Chassis protection - recommendations?
Discussion
Hi, my Series Landy has been in dry storage under going some major rebuild work. As it's all nice and dry I'd like to take some sensible preventative measures on the chassis.
I'd thought about injecting Waxoyl into the chassis box sections and cavities to prevent/slow down rusting from the inside (as it's highly likely to get dunked in the water and very muddy).
What other better/alternative products can you guys recommend?
I'd thought about injecting Waxoyl into the chassis box sections and cavities to prevent/slow down rusting from the inside (as it's highly likely to get dunked in the water and very muddy).
What other better/alternative products can you guys recommend?
300bhp/ton said:
What other better/alternative products can you guys recommend?
I rate the Bilt Hamber products, they do a new product for chassis http://www.bilthamber.com/pro-introduction.php?cna... Prevention&name=dynax-UB
Just a satisfied customer with no commercial links.
Nick
any of the waxoyl specialists will do a good job, for a price. alternatively, if you dont mind getting filthy, then there is a DIY alternative:
- thoroughly jetwash everything underath and get it really clean
- extremely thoroughly wirebrush and scrape, preferably using powered wirebrush attatchments in drill etc. dont rush or skimp, and get right into the nooks and crannies
- clean it all off ad brush it down
- drill stragetic places in the chassis and bulkhead an inject some waxoyl or dinitrol internal wax
- bung the holes
- give it at 2 coats of red oxide primer, leaving 24-48 hours for each coat to dry. lay it on thickly and get in all the corners
- then give it at least 2 coats of gloss black stonchip paint from Frost Auto Restorers
not only does this all look s
t-hot when finished, it lasts longer than even semi-professionally applied waxoyl, doesnt get EVERYWHERE when you apply it and mud doesnt stick to it either
- thoroughly jetwash everything underath and get it really clean
- extremely thoroughly wirebrush and scrape, preferably using powered wirebrush attatchments in drill etc. dont rush or skimp, and get right into the nooks and crannies
- clean it all off ad brush it down
- drill stragetic places in the chassis and bulkhead an inject some waxoyl or dinitrol internal wax
- bung the holes
- give it at 2 coats of red oxide primer, leaving 24-48 hours for each coat to dry. lay it on thickly and get in all the corners
- then give it at least 2 coats of gloss black stonchip paint from Frost Auto Restorers
not only does this all look s
t-hot when finished, it lasts longer than even semi-professionally applied waxoyl, doesnt get EVERYWHERE when you apply it and mud doesnt stick to it eitherI'm sure you'll find a Landy owner with a story about Before 'n' After - http://www.before-n-after.co.uk/
used to be at Newbury now somewhere Rugby/Daventry way
used to be at Newbury now somewhere Rugby/Daventry way
mat777 said:
any of the waxoyl specialists will do a good job, for a price. alternatively, if you dont mind getting filthy, then there is a DIY alternative:
- thoroughly jetwash everything underath and get it really clean
- extremely thoroughly wirebrush and scrape, preferably using powered wirebrush attatchments in drill etc. dont rush or skimp, and get right into the nooks and crannies
- clean it all off ad brush it down
- drill stragetic places in the chassis and bulkhead an inject some waxoyl or dinitrol internal wax
- bung the holes
- give it at 2 coats of red oxide primer, leaving 24-48 hours for each coat to dry. lay it on thickly and get in all the corners
- then give it at least 2 coats of gloss black stonchip paint from Frost Auto Restorers
not only does this all look st-hot when finished, it lasts longer than even semi-professionally applied waxoyl, doesnt get EVERYWHERE when you apply it and mud doesnt stick to it either
Thanks.- thoroughly jetwash everything underath and get it really clean
- extremely thoroughly wirebrush and scrape, preferably using powered wirebrush attatchments in drill etc. dont rush or skimp, and get right into the nooks and crannies
- clean it all off ad brush it down
- drill stragetic places in the chassis and bulkhead an inject some waxoyl or dinitrol internal wax
- bung the holes
- give it at 2 coats of red oxide primer, leaving 24-48 hours for each coat to dry. lay it on thickly and get in all the corners
- then give it at least 2 coats of gloss black stonchip paint from Frost Auto Restorers
not only does this all look s
t-hot when finished, it lasts longer than even semi-professionally applied waxoyl, doesnt get EVERYWHERE when you apply it and mud doesnt stick to it eitherGlad to be of help, 300bhp
extremely expensive, the work is sometimes shoddily prepared in terms of keeping non- undersealed bits clean, and the guy who owns it could not be a bigger knobhead if he tried - he is arrogant, has a massive ego and completely unrepentant to customer complaints even when he is clearly the party in the wrong. Even customers he's done a good job for think he's weird.
He gains his custom from the large number of extremely long winded adverts online and in magazines that draw in people who don't know better.
na said:
I'm sure you'll find a Landy owner with a story about Before 'n' After - http://www.before-n-after.co.uk/
used to be at Newbury now somewhere Rugby/Daventry way
AVOID - sure, it lasts longer than other waxoyl jobs, but...... used to be at Newbury now somewhere Rugby/Daventry way
extremely expensive, the work is sometimes shoddily prepared in terms of keeping non- undersealed bits clean, and the guy who owns it could not be a bigger knobhead if he tried - he is arrogant, has a massive ego and completely unrepentant to customer complaints even when he is clearly the party in the wrong. Even customers he's done a good job for think he's weird.
He gains his custom from the large number of extremely long winded adverts online and in magazines that draw in people who don't know better.
I wouldn't bother with Waxoyl. Practical Classics did a test some years ago and it performed badly due to poor penetration of existing rust. I now use either Dinitrol or Bilt Hamber products. Try www.rust.co.uk
I have first hand experience of Waxoyl failing. I had a Triumph Toledo in daily use some while ago and regularly injected the sills with Waxoyl using a compressor and proper applicator. One day, after owning the car for a few years I noticed a few bubbles about six inches back from the front end of the sill. Having always kept the drain holes clear and the inside of the sills well covered in Waxoyl I confidently had a push and a scrape expecting a bit of paint to fall off exposing a bit of surface rust. Dear reader, my fist went through. Peering inside through the significant hole and examining the bit that fell off showed an nice even layer of Waxoyl and rust happily munching away underneath it. Anecdotal evidence I know, but enough to put me off combined with the PC test.
I have first hand experience of Waxoyl failing. I had a Triumph Toledo in daily use some while ago and regularly injected the sills with Waxoyl using a compressor and proper applicator. One day, after owning the car for a few years I noticed a few bubbles about six inches back from the front end of the sill. Having always kept the drain holes clear and the inside of the sills well covered in Waxoyl I confidently had a push and a scrape expecting a bit of paint to fall off exposing a bit of surface rust. Dear reader, my fist went through. Peering inside through the significant hole and examining the bit that fell off showed an nice even layer of Waxoyl and rust happily munching away underneath it. Anecdotal evidence I know, but enough to put me off combined with the PC test.
Edited by rovermorris999 on Friday 24th February 08:37
http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-s...
I used this inside a lot of cavities on my Alpine. I dont know how good it is, but at least its something and I could do it myself. The nozzle is 24" long, and can go in very small holes and cracks. Its thin so it seems to get down into seams. If you do it in a garage, cover the floor underneath, I had it coming out of all kinds of seams and holes and dripping all over.
I used this inside a lot of cavities on my Alpine. I dont know how good it is, but at least its something and I could do it myself. The nozzle is 24" long, and can go in very small holes and cracks. Its thin so it seems to get down into seams. If you do it in a garage, cover the floor underneath, I had it coming out of all kinds of seams and holes and dripping all over.
Given it's a keeper if it was me I would have the existing underseal removed and any repairs
made then complete new underseal applied.
Doing that should give you worry free chassis rust issues for thirty years.
Might be the more pricy option I the short term but long run you'll benefit from it and of course should you ever want to sell that will be a big plus
made then complete new underseal applied.
Doing that should give you worry free chassis rust issues for thirty years.
Might be the more pricy option I the short term but long run you'll benefit from it and of course should you ever want to sell that will be a big plus
socorob said:
http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-s...
I used this inside a lot of cavities on my Alpine. I dont know how good it is, but at least its something and I could do it myself. The nozzle is 24" long, and can go in very small holes and cracks. Its thin so it seems to get down into seams. If you do it in a garage, cover the floor underneath, I had it coming out of all kinds of seams and holes and dripping all over.
Hey why don't you post some pic's of the Alpine??I used this inside a lot of cavities on my Alpine. I dont know how good it is, but at least its something and I could do it myself. The nozzle is 24" long, and can go in very small holes and cracks. Its thin so it seems to get down into seams. If you do it in a garage, cover the floor underneath, I had it coming out of all kinds of seams and holes and dripping all over.
The key thing with 'rust busting' is to provide an impervious surface that prevents oxidation of steel to rust. I would recomment a two stage approach - first of all treat with a Tannic Acid rust convertor - loads of em on the market Vactrol, Trustran 123 etc etc. Rewarded with a black, blue black or blue surfacte, protect further with the best underseal money can buy - Epoxy Mastic 121 from Rustbusters in Spalding. Simples as the pesky meercats say. HTH VVT
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