Would you or more importantly should I? (RX8 content)
Discussion
I know this subject has been covered over and over but just looking for some advice/reassurance really.
Basically SWMBO has decided she wants to trade up from the MX5 and the RX8 is an itch that we both feel needs scratching and so the search began and today we have come across this http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2012... now just from the advert she is smitten, I on the other hand am wary but willing to have a look.
Planning to view it on saturday but just hoping for some tips, advicand I would because/I wouldn't because really.
Sorry for covering ground covered so often before but thanks in advance guys.
Jamie
Basically SWMBO has decided she wants to trade up from the MX5 and the RX8 is an itch that we both feel needs scratching and so the search began and today we have come across this http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2012... now just from the advert she is smitten, I on the other hand am wary but willing to have a look.
Planning to view it on saturday but just hoping for some tips, advicand I would because/I wouldn't because really.
Sorry for covering ground covered so often before but thanks in advance guys.
Jamie
Well unless I'm mistaken that has no cruise control (controls should be on the RHS of the steering wheel), its missing the part of the switch for the rear of the seat (common problem, its easy to catch and knock off). It's also not got 4x electric windows unless its the one and only one with them! Also only the drivers seat is electric.
Ideally get it compression tested but you need, absolutely need to make sure it starts fine when warm.
See examples of hot and cold starting here.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120861818094
Make sure it has the toolkit (right at the very back of the boot there is a flap with the jack etc) and the air compressor/tyre gunk kit (black box on the right in the boot). Plus of course the locking wheel nut key (and don't like us assume that just because its there its intact, look inside it to make sure the pattern hasn't been ripped off! £17 for a replacement.)
Don't worry about a bit of emulsion in the dipstick, there is a 'fix' but its not a problem.
2006 onwards cars are *much* better but previous cars may have had the uprated starters etc.
Important with a 2004 car that its been Mazda serviced at least for the first few years, lots of updates and reflashes on the early models.
Ideally get it compression tested but you need, absolutely need to make sure it starts fine when warm.
See examples of hot and cold starting here.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120861818094
Make sure it has the toolkit (right at the very back of the boot there is a flap with the jack etc) and the air compressor/tyre gunk kit (black box on the right in the boot). Plus of course the locking wheel nut key (and don't like us assume that just because its there its intact, look inside it to make sure the pattern hasn't been ripped off! £17 for a replacement.)
Don't worry about a bit of emulsion in the dipstick, there is a 'fix' but its not a problem.
2006 onwards cars are *much* better but previous cars may have had the uprated starters etc.
Important with a 2004 car that its been Mazda serviced at least for the first few years, lots of updates and reflashes on the early models.
Thanks everyone for the input so far
Will let it run for a good time while viewing it dont think it looks too bad an example for the money though??
Fastdruid said:
Well unless I'm mistaken that has no cruise control (controls should be on the RHS of the steering wheel), its missing the part of the switch for the rear of the seat (common problem, its easy to catch and knock off). It's also not got 4x electric windows unless its the one and only one with them! Also only the drivers seat is electric.
Ideally get it compression tested but you need, absolutely need to make sure it starts fine when warm.
See examples of hot and cold starting here.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120861818094
Make sure it has the toolkit (right at the very back of the boot there is a flap with the jack etc) and the air compressor/tyre gunk kit (black box on the right in the boot). Plus of course the locking wheel nut key (and don't like us assume that just because its there its intact, look inside it to make sure the pattern hasn't been ripped off! £17 for a replacement.)
Don't worry about a bit of emulsion in the dipstick, there is a 'fix' but its not a problem.
2006 onwards cars are *much* better but previous cars may have had the uprated starters etc.
Important with a 2004 car that its been Mazda serviced at least for the first few years, lots of updates and reflashes on the early models.
Even without cruise control and only front electric windows it is modern luxury compared to the 5 Ideally get it compression tested but you need, absolutely need to make sure it starts fine when warm.
See examples of hot and cold starting here.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120861818094
Make sure it has the toolkit (right at the very back of the boot there is a flap with the jack etc) and the air compressor/tyre gunk kit (black box on the right in the boot). Plus of course the locking wheel nut key (and don't like us assume that just because its there its intact, look inside it to make sure the pattern hasn't been ripped off! £17 for a replacement.)
Don't worry about a bit of emulsion in the dipstick, there is a 'fix' but its not a problem.
2006 onwards cars are *much* better but previous cars may have had the uprated starters etc.
Important with a 2004 car that its been Mazda serviced at least for the first few years, lots of updates and reflashes on the early models.
Will let it run for a good time while viewing it dont think it looks too bad an example for the money though??No, its not bad but if I was looking to get one instead of sell one, I'd go for a 2006+, if you can afford it I'd get an 09+ R3.
One of the things that bodes well is only two owners, they're the kind of car that seemingly you either 'get' or hate, a 2004 car with two owners means two people liked it enough to keep for a number of years and (hopefully) looked after it.
Depending on how you drive it you/SWMBO may actually find the 192 is more suitable, I suspect a number of people go for the 231 wanting the 'high power' version but the 192 has a fair bit more torque and a lower rev limit, not that its quite as lacking as some would suggest but more its very linear, there is no kick. Although the ideal is possibly the 192 with the 231 gearbox.
One of the things that bodes well is only two owners, they're the kind of car that seemingly you either 'get' or hate, a 2004 car with two owners means two people liked it enough to keep for a number of years and (hopefully) looked after it.
Depending on how you drive it you/SWMBO may actually find the 192 is more suitable, I suspect a number of people go for the 231 wanting the 'high power' version but the 192 has a fair bit more torque and a lower rev limit, not that its quite as lacking as some would suggest but more its very linear, there is no kick. Although the ideal is possibly the 192 with the 231 gearbox.
Theres a few people on MX%nutz who've gone from 5 to 8 recently, with some good ownership tales.
They are great cars but flawed in areas - You just have to have your eyes wide open. I've been tempted myself if I'm honest.
I'd suggest they are best suited to people who are good DIY mechanics with a good undersanding of maintenance and the special characterisitics of the car etc.
They are great cars but flawed in areas - You just have to have your eyes wide open. I've been tempted myself if I'm honest.
I'd suggest they are best suited to people who are good DIY mechanics with a good undersanding of maintenance and the special characterisitics of the car etc.
firman said:
Just a quick one regarding compression testing, is it a standard compression tester needed and will a trader be cool with me testing during a viewing?
No, you can use a standard compression tester but that will just give you the best chamber figure (out of three). You really need a proper rotary tester.http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=138892
As for testing, well that's up to the dealer/trader. Personally I'd be a little iffy about a layman working on the engine of a car I was trying to sell.
CraigyMc said:
I'd love it if this thread didn't end up talking about rotor tip failure, oil usage, petrol usage and so on.
But it probably will.
C
I totally agree if those are all un-informed cliches, but surely they're rather important if there's actually some truth in them?But it probably will.
C
The great appeal of the RX8 as far as I can see is it's a sporty coupe that most people can afford to buy and that offers enough practicality for most people to live with every day. On those grounds if - hypothetically - there was a risk of it flooding and not starting in the morning or a risk of it bankrupting you with sub-20 mpg fuel costs or a risk of it breaking down repeatedly I'd say that was a rather important consideration.
Flooding is purely down to user error or poor maintenance (electric system needs to be on top form).
We worried about it but its *never* been an issue with ours. Even if you do flood it there is a procedure for curing it, its only if you then keep trying to start it *without* doing it properly you run into issues.
IMO flooding is a major contribution to engine death, washes all the oil off the rotors, do it once and it'll probably be fine, do it umpteen times with a little wear each time and before you know it the engine has no compression.
Engines have gone to 170k+ so there is nothing fundamentally flawed about the concept that means they absolutely will be shagged by a certain mileage. Downside is that there is no point at which you can point a finger and say "it'll be shagged now".
I would worry slightly about the 04's especially in comparison to later as they upped the oil flow for later models, this is why its absolutely essentially important to have the Mazda history for its early life. There are tell tales for the various important ECU flashes (stickers in certain places etc). I couldn't tell you what they were though. Ideally it'll have had the uprated starter etc but I think that was only if asked for rather than generally fitted.
One final thing, pretty much if there are any warning lights when its running with the drivers seatbelt in and the handbrake off, walk away. Just not worth it when there are plenty of good ones for only a few quid more.
We worried about it but its *never* been an issue with ours. Even if you do flood it there is a procedure for curing it, its only if you then keep trying to start it *without* doing it properly you run into issues.
IMO flooding is a major contribution to engine death, washes all the oil off the rotors, do it once and it'll probably be fine, do it umpteen times with a little wear each time and before you know it the engine has no compression.
Engines have gone to 170k+ so there is nothing fundamentally flawed about the concept that means they absolutely will be shagged by a certain mileage. Downside is that there is no point at which you can point a finger and say "it'll be shagged now".
I would worry slightly about the 04's especially in comparison to later as they upped the oil flow for later models, this is why its absolutely essentially important to have the Mazda history for its early life. There are tell tales for the various important ECU flashes (stickers in certain places etc). I couldn't tell you what they were though. Ideally it'll have had the uprated starter etc but I think that was only if asked for rather than generally fitted.
One final thing, pretty much if there are any warning lights when its running with the drivers seatbelt in and the handbrake off, walk away. Just not worth it when there are plenty of good ones for only a few quid more.
Fastdruid said:
Depending on how you drive it you/SWMBO may actually find the 192 is more suitable, I suspect a number of people go for the 231 wanting the 'high power' version but the 192 has a fair bit more torque and a lower rev limit, not that its quite as lacking as some would suggest but more its very linear, there is no kick. Although the ideal is possibly the 192 with the 231 gearbox.
There is a little more torque at the flywheel in the 192, but the higher rev limit of the 231 allows it to run shorter gearing such that it will pull harder than the 192 in every gear at any road speed. The butt dyno may suggest otherwise, though.I totally agree but if you're the kind of driver that changes at 5 it'll be far better. Although if I'm honest if you want low down stomp the RX-8 is not the car for you anyway.
If like me you find it hard to be doing less than 6k (I blame many years of riding bikes) at all times get the 231!
If like me you find it hard to be doing less than 6k (I blame many years of riding bikes) at all times get the 231!
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