Discussion
Hi All,
Sorry if this have been asked before but the search function seems very temperamental.....
Does anyone know if the brake servo is off a Ranger Rover classic or something else?
Just lifted my carpet to see a pool of brake fluid, assuming its coming from the servo..
Is this a common problem or is it likely to be coming from elsewhere?
Rich
Sorry if this have been asked before but the search function seems very temperamental.....
Does anyone know if the brake servo is off a Ranger Rover classic or something else?
Just lifted my carpet to see a pool of brake fluid, assuming its coming from the servo..
Is this a common problem or is it likely to be coming from elsewhere?
Rich
Brake master cylinder?
I had a ruddy puddle under my feet when mine was going.
Check the levels and take it for a drive, see which drops.
Or feel around the pipework by the steering column.
Or shine a light into the wheelarch when you've popped off the access panel, you might be able to see the fluid path.
If its the brake master it was a pig of a job. On my pre-cat Griff anyway.
I had a ruddy puddle under my feet when mine was going.
Check the levels and take it for a drive, see which drops.
Or feel around the pipework by the steering column.
Or shine a light into the wheelarch when you've popped off the access panel, you might be able to see the fluid path.
If its the brake master it was a pig of a job. On my pre-cat Griff anyway.
As said above, it wont be coming from the servo. It will be from the clutch or brake master cylinder. Keep your fingers crossed its the clutch.
Servo is off a Fiesta. When i changed mine I seem to recall they are all the same across all Fiesta models. Worth changing if it is your brake master as it will have leaked into the servo and will speed up the rusting process. Plus not a job you want to be doing twice so change it all while your in there.
Servo is off a Fiesta. When i changed mine I seem to recall they are all the same across all Fiesta models. Worth changing if it is your brake master as it will have leaked into the servo and will speed up the rusting process. Plus not a job you want to be doing twice so change it all while your in there.
Richard86 said:
Hi All,
Sorry if this have been asked before but the search function seems very temperamental.....
Does anyone know if the brake servo is off a Ranger Rover classic or something else?
Just lifted my carpet to see a pool of brake fluid, assuming its coming from the servo..
Is this a common problem or is it likely to be coming from elsewhere?
Rich
Its Ford Fiesta 1990`s car ,i got one from the scrap yard ,works perfect..Sorry if this have been asked before but the search function seems very temperamental.....
Does anyone know if the brake servo is off a Ranger Rover classic or something else?
Just lifted my carpet to see a pool of brake fluid, assuming its coming from the servo..
Is this a common problem or is it likely to be coming from elsewhere?
Rich
Not a great job, but not the end of the world. Its probably been leaking for sometime so my advice would be to change the servo as well. Save doing the job again when the servo decides to give up.
Master cylinder is XR2. 22.2mm bore iirc. It will say on your old one. The two front oulets are M12 the rear two M10. I got my parts from Brakes International at a fair price.
To get the servo out you will have to take the pedal box out.
Good luck.
Master cylinder is XR2. 22.2mm bore iirc. It will say on your old one. The two front oulets are M12 the rear two M10. I got my parts from Brakes International at a fair price.
To get the servo out you will have to take the pedal box out.
Good luck.
SILICONEKID340HP said:
My mate who has been a mechanic for 40 years and a diesel and petrol engine builder did this job for me ,he said directly in my face
"That was the worst job i have ever done in my life "
Im not joking .!
Your not helping "That was the worst job i have ever done in my life "
Im not joking .!
Just had another look, how the hell do you get a spanner in there!!.
Extreme gynecology!!
Rich
Assuming you are doing the servo as well.
Disconnect the brake and clutch pipes in the drivers footwell where they pass through the bulkhead into the engine bay.
Undo the clutch master cylinder and get it free from the pedal box, this will be a two person job, one in the footwell one in the inner wing. You will have to also diconnect it via the clevis pin on the pedal itself. Nice job if its siezed to the pedal.
Undo the brake master cylinder from the servo in the front wing. Then undo the servo from the pedal box via the 4 nuts in the footwell. Also undo from pedal again via clevis pin. Keep both brake master cylinder and servo in the wing. Also remove throttle pedal completely from the pedal box and lie it on the floor.
Unscrew clutch pedal completely off. This will allow you to manouvre the pedal box over the steering column and out without removing steering column itself. There are 6 bolts holding the pedal box in. 4 on top of the inner wing and two in the front o/s wheelarch. Once pedal box is out the servo and master cylinder complete with brake pipes can be just pulled out.
I personally would re fit brake pipes to new master cylinder on the bench before placing back in the car. Its much easier to get them nice and tight on the bench than trying to do it through the tiny inspection hole.
The worst bit about this job is the mess with brake fluid dripping everywhere. Keep plenty of rags handy. The nuts and bolts to the master cylinders in the inner wing are tight to get to but it can be done with extensions etc. Some can be got to via the 2 smaller holes in the wing where the servo hose and throttle cable pass through.
Hope that helps Ian.
Disconnect the brake and clutch pipes in the drivers footwell where they pass through the bulkhead into the engine bay.
Undo the clutch master cylinder and get it free from the pedal box, this will be a two person job, one in the footwell one in the inner wing. You will have to also diconnect it via the clevis pin on the pedal itself. Nice job if its siezed to the pedal.
Undo the brake master cylinder from the servo in the front wing. Then undo the servo from the pedal box via the 4 nuts in the footwell. Also undo from pedal again via clevis pin. Keep both brake master cylinder and servo in the wing. Also remove throttle pedal completely from the pedal box and lie it on the floor.
Unscrew clutch pedal completely off. This will allow you to manouvre the pedal box over the steering column and out without removing steering column itself. There are 6 bolts holding the pedal box in. 4 on top of the inner wing and two in the front o/s wheelarch. Once pedal box is out the servo and master cylinder complete with brake pipes can be just pulled out.
I personally would re fit brake pipes to new master cylinder on the bench before placing back in the car. Its much easier to get them nice and tight on the bench than trying to do it through the tiny inspection hole.
The worst bit about this job is the mess with brake fluid dripping everywhere. Keep plenty of rags handy. The nuts and bolts to the master cylinders in the inner wing are tight to get to but it can be done with extensions etc. Some can be got to via the 2 smaller holes in the wing where the servo hose and throttle cable pass through.
Hope that helps Ian.
carsy said:
Assuming you are doing the servo as well.
Disconnect the brake and clutch pipes in the drivers footwell where they pass through the bulkhead into the engine bay.
Undo the clutch master cylinder and get it free from the pedal box, this will be a two person job, one in the footwell one in the inner wing. You will have to also diconnect it via the clevis pin on the pedal itself. Nice job if its siezed to the pedal.
Undo the brake master cylinder from the servo in the front wing. Then undo the servo from the pedal box via the 4 nuts in the footwell. Also undo from pedal again via clevis pin. Keep both brake master cylinder and servo in the wing. Also remove throttle pedal completely from the pedal box and lie it on the floor.
Unscrew clutch pedal completely off. This will allow you to manouvre the pedal box over the steering column and out without removing steering column itself. There are 6 bolts holding the pedal box in. 4 on top of the inner wing and two in the front o/s wheelarch. Once pedal box is out the servo and master cylinder complete with brake pipes can be just pulled out.
I personally would re fit brake pipes to new master cylinder on the bench before placing back in the car. Its much easier to get them nice and tight on the bench than trying to do it through the tiny inspection hole.
The worst bit about this job is the mess with brake fluid dripping everywhere. Keep plenty of rags handy. The nuts and bolts to the master cylinders in the inner wing are tight to get to but it can be done with extensions etc. Some can be got to via the 2 smaller holes in the wing where the servo hose and throttle cable pass through.
Hope that helps Ian.
Sounds good, thanks for the advice.Disconnect the brake and clutch pipes in the drivers footwell where they pass through the bulkhead into the engine bay.
Undo the clutch master cylinder and get it free from the pedal box, this will be a two person job, one in the footwell one in the inner wing. You will have to also diconnect it via the clevis pin on the pedal itself. Nice job if its siezed to the pedal.
Undo the brake master cylinder from the servo in the front wing. Then undo the servo from the pedal box via the 4 nuts in the footwell. Also undo from pedal again via clevis pin. Keep both brake master cylinder and servo in the wing. Also remove throttle pedal completely from the pedal box and lie it on the floor.
Unscrew clutch pedal completely off. This will allow you to manouvre the pedal box over the steering column and out without removing steering column itself. There are 6 bolts holding the pedal box in. 4 on top of the inner wing and two in the front o/s wheelarch. Once pedal box is out the servo and master cylinder complete with brake pipes can be just pulled out.
I personally would re fit brake pipes to new master cylinder on the bench before placing back in the car. Its much easier to get them nice and tight on the bench than trying to do it through the tiny inspection hole.
The worst bit about this job is the mess with brake fluid dripping everywhere. Keep plenty of rags handy. The nuts and bolts to the master cylinders in the inner wing are tight to get to but it can be done with extensions etc. Some can be got to via the 2 smaller holes in the wing where the servo hose and throttle cable pass through.
Hope that helps Ian.
carsy said:
Assuming you are doing the servo as well.
Disconnect the brake and clutch pipes in the drivers footwell where they pass through the bulkhead into the engine bay.
Undo the clutch master cylinder and get it free from the pedal box, this will be a two person job, one in the footwell one in the inner wing. You will have to also diconnect it via the clevis pin on the pedal itself. Nice job if its siezed to the pedal.
Undo the brake master cylinder from the servo in the front wing. Then undo the servo from the pedal box via the 4 nuts in the footwell. Also undo from pedal again via clevis pin. Keep both brake master cylinder and servo in the wing. Also remove throttle pedal completely from the pedal box and lie it on the floor.
Unscrew clutch pedal completely off. This will allow you to manouvre the pedal box over the steering column and out without removing steering column itself. There are 6 bolts holding the pedal box in. 4 on top of the inner wing and two in the front o/s wheelarch. Once pedal box is out the servo and master cylinder complete with brake pipes can be just pulled out.
I personally would re fit brake pipes to new master cylinder on the bench before placing back in the car. Its much easier to get them nice and tight on the bench than trying to do it through the tiny inspection hole.
The worst bit about this job is the mess with brake fluid dripping everywhere. Keep plenty of rags handy. The nuts and bolts to the master cylinders in the inner wing are tight to get to but it can be done with extensions etc. Some can be got to via the 2 smaller holes in the wing where the servo hose and throttle cable pass through.
Hope that helps Ian.
Great post Ian - but I still can't get the Disconnect the brake and clutch pipes in the drivers footwell where they pass through the bulkhead into the engine bay.
Undo the clutch master cylinder and get it free from the pedal box, this will be a two person job, one in the footwell one in the inner wing. You will have to also diconnect it via the clevis pin on the pedal itself. Nice job if its siezed to the pedal.
Undo the brake master cylinder from the servo in the front wing. Then undo the servo from the pedal box via the 4 nuts in the footwell. Also undo from pedal again via clevis pin. Keep both brake master cylinder and servo in the wing. Also remove throttle pedal completely from the pedal box and lie it on the floor.
Unscrew clutch pedal completely off. This will allow you to manouvre the pedal box over the steering column and out without removing steering column itself. There are 6 bolts holding the pedal box in. 4 on top of the inner wing and two in the front o/s wheelarch. Once pedal box is out the servo and master cylinder complete with brake pipes can be just pulled out.
I personally would re fit brake pipes to new master cylinder on the bench before placing back in the car. Its much easier to get them nice and tight on the bench than trying to do it through the tiny inspection hole.
The worst bit about this job is the mess with brake fluid dripping everywhere. Keep plenty of rags handy. The nuts and bolts to the master cylinders in the inner wing are tight to get to but it can be done with extensions etc. Some can be got to via the 2 smaller holes in the wing where the servo hose and throttle cable pass through.
Hope that helps Ian.
out. Anyone else managed to get the pedal box out without removing the steering column, if so what's the secret as mine ain't having it!If everything is disconnected and your ready to pull the box out. Unscrew the adjustable clutch pedal and remove it completely. I'm just talking about the adjustable bit your foot goes on. You can then swing the arm of the pedal up and out of the way which will allow just enough space to manouvre the whole thing over the steering column.
Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff