Wishbone Replacement
Discussion
Hi,
Im sure there will be a few out there who, over time, have replaced wishbones on the cerbs.
Have needed to replace the upper nearside wishbone due to existing one fracturing - well snapping actually.
Its a straight forward job,in theory, due to it only being 4 bolts.
And I do realise that wheel alignment etc will require to be checked afterwards.
This is a pic of the original which has been replaced.
And this is a pic of the replacement.
First question - Is the bend/curve highlighted on the original supposed to be there or has this occurred
at some point, possibly connected to the reason the wishbone snapped.
I cannot tell from the drivers side as it has been replaced in the past by a previous owner and is identical to
this new one.
Any way, new one on and the camber is now too positive - ie the top of the wheel sticks out too far.
The wishbone connection at the balljoint has elongated holes, Im assuming for adjustment of angles etc.
I have had to assemble it with the top balljoint pushed as far in on the elongated holes to bring the
hub/disc assembly in at the top, therefore less positive camber.
Again I understand that the steering geometery will require setting up properly but what adjustments
are available on the wishbones.
Its not immediately obvious what other adjustments can be made to alter the camber other than the
elongated holes at the balljoint.
Any pointers greatfully accepted.
Im sure there will be a few out there who, over time, have replaced wishbones on the cerbs.
Have needed to replace the upper nearside wishbone due to existing one fracturing - well snapping actually.
Its a straight forward job,in theory, due to it only being 4 bolts.
And I do realise that wheel alignment etc will require to be checked afterwards.
This is a pic of the original which has been replaced.
And this is a pic of the replacement.
First question - Is the bend/curve highlighted on the original supposed to be there or has this occurred
at some point, possibly connected to the reason the wishbone snapped.
I cannot tell from the drivers side as it has been replaced in the past by a previous owner and is identical to
this new one.
Any way, new one on and the camber is now too positive - ie the top of the wheel sticks out too far.
The wishbone connection at the balljoint has elongated holes, Im assuming for adjustment of angles etc.
I have had to assemble it with the top balljoint pushed as far in on the elongated holes to bring the
hub/disc assembly in at the top, therefore less positive camber.
Again I understand that the steering geometery will require setting up properly but what adjustments
are available on the wishbones.
Its not immediately obvious what other adjustments can be made to alter the camber other than the
elongated holes at the balljoint.
Any pointers greatfully accepted.
Tanguero said:
Camber is adjusted with the slotted holes. Castor is adjusted with the shims that go either side of the ball joint. That's all there is.
How does the overall length from pivot to the slotted holes compare with the one that came off?
Hi,How does the overall length from pivot to the slotted holes compare with the one that came off?
Thanks for that info.
Its kinda what I guessed, as far as camber goes, short of there being anything more obvious.
Wont take long to pull the new one and compare what you suggest - pivot to slotted holes.
If there is a noticeable difference, would it be acceptable to machine the holes to bring it in line with the original, or is that a no-no - send it back and hope the next one is better ?
I think it would depend on how much more movement is needed and in which direction. The Holes are not horizontal but sloped (at least they are on mine) so you may only have very limited scope for enlarging them. Depending on where you got the new arm it might be worth having a word with them, but I would hope that there wasn't much difference between units.
Personally if it were mine, I would probably enlarge the slots if I could. But as this is a critical suspension component would only do so if I was sure it wouldn't weaken it at all. Wouldn't want it to crack now...
Personally if it were mine, I would probably enlarge the slots if I could. But as this is a critical suspension component would only do so if I was sure it wouldn't weaken it at all. Wouldn't want it to crack now...
Tanguero said:
How does the overall length from pivot to the slotted holes compare with the one that came off?
Anyone aware of there being more than one style/type of upper front wishbone ie dependent on age of car etc.
Have sent the supplier an email meantime but somethings not right.
Have since discovered that apparently the wishbone design was changed early 2001.
See here: http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
On closer inspection the new wishbone I have been sent appears to be the later one - C0945.
It should have been C0195, which I am hoping is the earlier, shorter one.
Never straight forward, is it
See here: http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
On closer inspection the new wishbone I have been sent appears to be the later one - C0945.
It should have been C0195, which I am hoping is the earlier, shorter one.
Never straight forward, is it
.....That`ll be a no!TVdinneR said:
Have since discovered that apparently the wishbone design was changed early 2001.
See here: http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
On closer inspection the new wishbone I have been sent appears to be the later one - C0945.
It should have been C0195, which I am hoping is the earlier, shorter one.
Never straight forward, is it
Quick update just to finish off:See here: http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
On closer inspection the new wishbone I have been sent appears to be the later one - C0945.
It should have been C0195, which I am hoping is the earlier, shorter one.
Never straight forward, is it
Did indeed turn out as above.
C0945 sent in error.
C0195 sent as replacement and now fitted.
Took half an hour to fit and all appears fine now.
"I is happy now"
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