Classic manual any good?
Discussion
Hi guys,
Searching for a classic v8 auto, but this manual has come up. I have driven several autos a long time ago but never a manual. What are they like? Any problems?
A v8 really should be hooked up to an auto, but this looks tidy and is near me...
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/3638379.htm
Cheers
Searching for a classic v8 auto, but this manual has come up. I have driven several autos a long time ago but never a manual. What are they like? Any problems?
A v8 really should be hooked up to an auto, but this looks tidy and is near me...
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/3638379.htm
Cheers
I've not driven a classic in manual before myself but a friend had one in London and sold it within a month as his left leg had doubled in size.
Whatever I'd say that £2K is NEVER going to be got for a cat 'd classic although it does look like a fairly tidy example. Probably worth a look, but pay special to the receipts as I'll bet most of that £5K was spent repairing the water damage. And as we all know water+classic=rust.
Whatever I'd say that £2K is NEVER going to be got for a cat 'd classic although it does look like a fairly tidy example. Probably worth a look, but pay special to the receipts as I'll bet most of that £5K was spent repairing the water damage. And as we all know water+classic=rust.
That'll be the LT77S - same box as my CSK, I don't find it an issue at all but then I've rarely driven anything other than Land Rover products. It's certainly a lot better than the clutch on my Series 3 and I find it comparable if not a little better than the clutch on my R380'd Discovery.
As a side, whilst it looks tidy on the outside look for rust. Also, that dash isn't put together properly on the N/S and the gear gaiter looks odd. Seat pockets are also showing their age.
As a side, whilst it looks tidy on the outside look for rust. Also, that dash isn't put together properly on the N/S and the gear gaiter looks odd. Seat pockets are also showing their age.
C4SHONEY said:
Just called the seller, who is a trader. Apparently CAT C due to water damage in 2008.
Walk away?
What sort of water damage? Flooded vehicles tend to be written off as a cat B as you can never trust that water hasn't rusted something hidden but important.Walk away?
I had my old rrc in water up to the bottom of the steering wheel before. Needed a damn good clean but passed another 2 MOTs before the cills and foot wells finally gave up and I chopped it in for a 110.
That's nuts. Off-roaders wade their vehicles all the time. Why are they write-offs ?
All the box sections should have drain holes etc, carpets can be dried out.
Or is it because they don't know if there were 'wastes' in the water / sewerage mixed in etc ?
If it helps, I have a 2-door with a 4-speed manual and wouldn't say it was heavy.
All the box sections should have drain holes etc, carpets can be dried out.
Or is it because they don't know if there were 'wastes' in the water / sewerage mixed in etc ?
If it helps, I have a 2-door with a 4-speed manual and wouldn't say it was heavy.
^ I was assuming the water damage was engine related.
I will point out quickly that a Cat C is one where the car is written off as the cost of repair is more than 100% the value of the vehicle, whereas a Cat D is an insurance write off when the repair costs are over 60% the value of the car and is deemed not financially worth it (a common problem with classics).
I will point out quickly that a Cat C is one where the car is written off as the cost of repair is more than 100% the value of the vehicle, whereas a Cat D is an insurance write off when the repair costs are over 60% the value of the car and is deemed not financially worth it (a common problem with classics).
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