Discussion
Sorry if this has been done to death, butthe search facility is down at the moment.
I'm going to view the above car this afternoon. It's covered 126k miles which doesn't put me off too much, but is there anything specific I should look out for at this kind of mileage?
It's a 2003 manual coupe by the way. Mostly BMW service history, then specialist.
Many thanks for any info.
I'm going to view the above car this afternoon. It's covered 126k miles which doesn't put me off too much, but is there anything specific I should look out for at this kind of mileage?
It's a 2003 manual coupe by the way. Mostly BMW service history, then specialist.
Many thanks for any info.
I've yet to find that out. I'm aware that there may be a few bills coming my way, but I'm braced for that 
.
From general browsing on here, I should look out for suspension issues, cracked rear subframe (how do I check for that? Lifting the boot carpet?) and a leaking diff.
The car came back clean after an hpi check btw, which is a good start.
.From general browsing on here, I should look out for suspension issues, cracked rear subframe (how do I check for that? Lifting the boot carpet?) and a leaking diff.
The car came back clean after an hpi check btw, which is a good start.
Front wishbones expensive, 30-50k miles £500
sMG adjustment can seem like slipping clutch £ 800
Vanos ticking sign of failure £800
Shocks will be old so expect replacement for best ride.£1200
Head Gasket failure possible (cylinder to cylinder) so listen for detonation through exhaust.£1000
Rear cracks in boot floor and sub boot metal. Check subframe mounting points £1500-5000 or BMW goodwill.
sMG adjustment can seem like slipping clutch £ 800
Vanos ticking sign of failure £800
Shocks will be old so expect replacement for best ride.£1200
Head Gasket failure possible (cylinder to cylinder) so listen for detonation through exhaust.£1000
Rear cracks in boot floor and sub boot metal. Check subframe mounting points £1500-5000 or BMW goodwill.
At that mileage:
head gasket - usually diagnosed by rattly top end rather than overheating/ significant consumption of coolant on an S54 I believe. Can be confused for vanos noise (2-3k rpm for vanos noise)
subframe cracks - almost impossible to check unless the car is on a ramp and you can drop the diff/exhaust. There's far to much gunk/grime under the car to see any hairline fractures. If it's really bad you can lift the boot carpet and check for any distortion BUT you'll more than likely notice this in the way the car drives (very loose rear end, noises) if it's showing up inside the boot.
Brakes & tyres - these will be your biggest cost on the car.
Diff - any weeping/leaking
Springs - especially on the rear they crack, check the rear perches.
Overall, check it drives tight and corners accurately, revs cleanly to the limiter as well.
head gasket - usually diagnosed by rattly top end rather than overheating/ significant consumption of coolant on an S54 I believe. Can be confused for vanos noise (2-3k rpm for vanos noise)
subframe cracks - almost impossible to check unless the car is on a ramp and you can drop the diff/exhaust. There's far to much gunk/grime under the car to see any hairline fractures. If it's really bad you can lift the boot carpet and check for any distortion BUT you'll more than likely notice this in the way the car drives (very loose rear end, noises) if it's showing up inside the boot.
Brakes & tyres - these will be your biggest cost on the car.
Diff - any weeping/leaking
Springs - especially on the rear they crack, check the rear perches.
Overall, check it drives tight and corners accurately, revs cleanly to the limiter as well.
Main areas of concern are the bushings front/rear, suspension in general (straight line and cornering stability), the Vanos unit and regular servicing.
Check if the next service is just an oil service or inspection 1/2 which can be expensive. Inspection 2 is more thorough. Needs brake and cooling fluids changed every 2 years.
If you decide to buy it, keep a budget of 2-3k for repairs and servicing.
Check if the next service is just an oil service or inspection 1/2 which can be expensive. Inspection 2 is more thorough. Needs brake and cooling fluids changed every 2 years.
If you decide to buy it, keep a budget of 2-3k for repairs and servicing.
I would certainly ask to see receipts for rear springs, RTABs and possibly clutch.
1st & 2nd gears can be stubborn when cold- double de-clutching helps.
check the CD changer works (if fitted) £60 to repair if doesn't recognise discs or eject the cartridge.
rear view mirror; does the auto dip still work or is it 'bubbled'
HVAC blower; check that it blows!
Exhaust silencer hangers; check to see if the clearance between tail pipes and valance is even across 2 sides.
Rear damper top mounts; can cause a rattling noise from the parcel shelf area.
Power steering; one of the hoses under the rad can weep some fluid- may be worth checking fluid level as an indicator??
fan belt condition??
1st & 2nd gears can be stubborn when cold- double de-clutching helps.
check the CD changer works (if fitted) £60 to repair if doesn't recognise discs or eject the cartridge.
rear view mirror; does the auto dip still work or is it 'bubbled'
HVAC blower; check that it blows!
Exhaust silencer hangers; check to see if the clearance between tail pipes and valance is even across 2 sides.
Rear damper top mounts; can cause a rattling noise from the parcel shelf area.
Power steering; one of the hoses under the rad can weep some fluid- may be worth checking fluid level as an indicator??
fan belt condition??
Thanks for all the info. I've just got back after buying it.
It drove beautifully, tight as a drum. No funny noises from the VANOS unit or weaping diff or anything. It has a full BMW service history, having just had an inspection II. It's a corker really, it felt like it had covered only half that mileage.
Thanks again.
It drove beautifully, tight as a drum. No funny noises from the VANOS unit or weaping diff or anything. It has a full BMW service history, having just had an inspection II. It's a corker really, it felt like it had covered only half that mileage.
Thanks again.
Baz Tench said:
Cheers. I'm picking it up tomorrow, so I will take some proper pictures of it. I've only got a couple of crappy camera phone images so far.
I was surprised by how well it drove. Very tight and responsive. I'm over the moon with it!
Congrats! Mine is tucked away Sorned at the moment until warmer weather arrives, itching to Drive it after reading this thread!!I was surprised by how well it drove. Very tight and responsive. I'm over the moon with it!
Look forward to pics.
Sorry for the lack of pics. I've taken a few, but it is quite dirty (I'm not into cleaning cars much, prefer driving them, especially this one ), but I can't seem to upload them via the PH uploader (never had a problem before with it).
Someone suggested I check out the interior rear view mirror. It is clear at the top, then permanently tinted to the bottom from about a quarter of the way down. How much hassle to replace it do you think? Also, it may be an MOT failure I'd have thought?
There are some small rust bubbles at the base of both the door mirrors (not connected to the body) which I will get sorted ASAP, a very slightly worn drivers seat and scratches on the inner passenger door handle. Other than that the car is bang on.
Absolutely loving it!
), but I can't seem to upload them via the PH uploader (never had a problem before with it).Someone suggested I check out the interior rear view mirror. It is clear at the top, then permanently tinted to the bottom from about a quarter of the way down. How much hassle to replace it do you think? Also, it may be an MOT failure I'd have thought?
There are some small rust bubbles at the base of both the door mirrors (not connected to the body) which I will get sorted ASAP, a very slightly worn drivers seat and scratches on the inner passenger door handle. Other than that the car is bang on.
Absolutely loving it!
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