Are MX5's Reliable?
Discussion
Please excuse my ignorance as I know nothing about MX5's!
My daily drive is falling apart as I type and I'm considering selling it. I have been browsing the classifieds and it looks like the Mk3 MX5 falls into my price range. How reliable are they (I only cover 50 miles a day), and what do I need to look out for if I decide to buy one?
My daily drive is falling apart as I type and I'm considering selling it. I have been browsing the classifieds and it looks like the Mk3 MX5 falls into my price range. How reliable are they (I only cover 50 miles a day), and what do I need to look out for if I decide to buy one?
Yes they are reliable
Some things to look for here.
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
Only travel 50 miles a day? Oh well, you will just have to find a LONGER way home!
Regards DD.
Some things to look for here.
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
Only travel 50 miles a day? Oh well, you will just have to find a LONGER way home!
Regards DD.
Had My 2002 MK 2.5 Sport from new,now on 35k miles . Problems
1/ Clutch judder and flaking finish on wheels , changed under warantee
2/ Discs all round , due to lack of use ( rusting etc)
3/ Drivers door lock alarm contact just started to be a problem , again most likely lack of use
4/ Lambda sensor last year , Mazda garage quote around £180( if i remember correctly, may have been more ) . Freelance Mazda Gravesend £90
5/ Hood clamps , Mx5 parts again about half Mazda price
Not bad I think , if this is reflected in the MK3 nothing to worry about
Compare this with a 2006 VW Passat owned for 4 years
Engine speed sensor
parking brake
Central locking
fuel pump
INJECTORS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! £800 each !!( now a VOSA recall )
Parking sensors
Bright work losing shine
1/ Clutch judder and flaking finish on wheels , changed under warantee
2/ Discs all round , due to lack of use ( rusting etc)
3/ Drivers door lock alarm contact just started to be a problem , again most likely lack of use
4/ Lambda sensor last year , Mazda garage quote around £180( if i remember correctly, may have been more ) . Freelance Mazda Gravesend £90
5/ Hood clamps , Mx5 parts again about half Mazda price
Not bad I think , if this is reflected in the MK3 nothing to worry about
Compare this with a 2006 VW Passat owned for 4 years
Engine speed sensor
parking brake
Central locking
fuel pump
INJECTORS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! £800 each !!( now a VOSA recall )
Parking sensors
Bright work losing shine
MX-5 Lazza said:
Why did the hood clamps need replacing? They normally only wear out on very old heavily used cars.
I would disagree. The early Mk1/Mk2 clamps are bomb proof. Later Mk2 clamps are not as well made. My 20-year old soft top clamps are still in excellent working order but I have already had to replace one of the clamps on a late Mk2 hard top and the other one is not as good as it should be. i think i may have the only horror story, and even this mine isnt too bad, i think i fixed it.
so far.
lots of blue smoke which im presuming to be valve stem oil seals,
snapped passenger window cable
lots of rattly things, (mirrors, spoilers, dash)
water getting everywhere, (in boot around battery!, through roof seals, and now drivers footwell is soaking)
rear screen clouded over, cant see out of it.
car then stopped running, changed usual servicable stuff plus fuel pump and removing a crap immobiliser but would fail intermittently, think ive sorted it with a new crank angle sensor, so hopefully thats it done.
if i tidy up all the rough edges it will be a nice car, but at least parts are cheaper than new cars, changing this stuff on a 3 series i had would of cost 4x the price.
so far.
lots of blue smoke which im presuming to be valve stem oil seals,
snapped passenger window cable
lots of rattly things, (mirrors, spoilers, dash)
water getting everywhere, (in boot around battery!, through roof seals, and now drivers footwell is soaking)
rear screen clouded over, cant see out of it.
car then stopped running, changed usual servicable stuff plus fuel pump and removing a crap immobiliser but would fail intermittently, think ive sorted it with a new crank angle sensor, so hopefully thats it done.
if i tidy up all the rough edges it will be a nice car, but at least parts are cheaper than new cars, changing this stuff on a 3 series i had would of cost 4x the price.
Wifey bought a mk1 1.6 (88 bhp) off a friend, with a few known faults.
In 2 and a half years, I've replaced the hood (I knew I'd have to), junked the after market electric windows, fitted a new drivers window winder cable, replaced the rear pads and a caliper seal, made it idle correctly, and serviced it. I also paid someone to fix the back end of the sills, but I suspect they bodged it, and I'll be paying someone else to do it again properly.
It's done 110K since 1997, and wife's friend used it for off roading ( I jest, but I'm still finding dust in the engine bay, from her trips up a lane to feed her horse)
In 2 and a half years, I've replaced the hood (I knew I'd have to), junked the after market electric windows, fitted a new drivers window winder cable, replaced the rear pads and a caliper seal, made it idle correctly, and serviced it. I also paid someone to fix the back end of the sills, but I suspect they bodged it, and I'll be paying someone else to do it again properly.
It's done 110K since 1997, and wife's friend used it for off roading ( I jest, but I'm still finding dust in the engine bay, from her trips up a lane to feed her horse)
Well,depends on the car really.
The achilles heel of mx5s is rust really, mechanically speaking they are pretty good, but depends on service history and previous owners level of attention.
I bought a mk2.5 2002 phoenix (a heart over head buy really), and i've been a little unlucky-
-passenger side sill has just been welded due to previous owner never clearing drain holes, drivers side will need doing in a year or 2 (£300ish a side)
-immobiliser failed and took crank pos sensor with it, cost me £470 to have repaired.
-number of small niggles- new softop latch, diff was empty of oil and is a bit shagged, car has an external HG oil leak, which i'll need to get fixed eventually.
The car looked very clean when i bought, and road test didnt show any problems, car had 1 prev owner and 53k miles...
So just shop around and buy on condition rather than mileage, these cars will go 200k plus miles easily if well maintained.
In spite of having to sort a bunch of niggles and the larger problems I love my mx5 and wouldn't have any other car.
The achilles heel of mx5s is rust really, mechanically speaking they are pretty good, but depends on service history and previous owners level of attention.
I bought a mk2.5 2002 phoenix (a heart over head buy really), and i've been a little unlucky-
-passenger side sill has just been welded due to previous owner never clearing drain holes, drivers side will need doing in a year or 2 (£300ish a side)
-immobiliser failed and took crank pos sensor with it, cost me £470 to have repaired.
-number of small niggles- new softop latch, diff was empty of oil and is a bit shagged, car has an external HG oil leak, which i'll need to get fixed eventually.
The car looked very clean when i bought, and road test didnt show any problems, car had 1 prev owner and 53k miles...
So just shop around and buy on condition rather than mileage, these cars will go 200k plus miles easily if well maintained.
In spite of having to sort a bunch of niggles and the larger problems I love my mx5 and wouldn't have any other car.
designforlife said:
Well,depends on the car really.
The achilles heel of mx5s is rust really, mechanically speaking they are pretty good, but depends on service history and previous owners level of attention.
I bought a mk2.5 2002 phoenix (a heart over head buy really), and i've been a little unlucky-
-passenger side sill has just been welded due to previous owner never clearing drain holes, drivers side will need doing in a year or 2 (£300ish a side)
-immobiliser failed and took crank pos sensor with it, cost me £470 to have repaired.
-number of small niggles- new softop latch, diff was empty of oil and is a bit shagged, car has an external HG oil leak, which i'll need to get fixed eventually.
The car looked very clean when i bought, and road test didnt show any problems, car had 1 prev owner and 53k miles...
So just shop around and buy on condition rather than mileage, these cars will go 200k plus miles easily if well maintained.
In spite of having to sort a bunch of niggles and the larger problems I love my mx5 and wouldn't have any other car.
All those are unrelated to the MK3 in the OP though.The achilles heel of mx5s is rust really, mechanically speaking they are pretty good, but depends on service history and previous owners level of attention.
I bought a mk2.5 2002 phoenix (a heart over head buy really), and i've been a little unlucky-
-passenger side sill has just been welded due to previous owner never clearing drain holes, drivers side will need doing in a year or 2 (£300ish a side)
-immobiliser failed and took crank pos sensor with it, cost me £470 to have repaired.
-number of small niggles- new softop latch, diff was empty of oil and is a bit shagged, car has an external HG oil leak, which i'll need to get fixed eventually.
The car looked very clean when i bought, and road test didnt show any problems, car had 1 prev owner and 53k miles...
So just shop around and buy on condition rather than mileage, these cars will go 200k plus miles easily if well maintained.
In spite of having to sort a bunch of niggles and the larger problems I love my mx5 and wouldn't have any other car.
MK3 runs what is essentially a Ford Duratech. So any engine niggles on previous models are not really applicable, obviously the body is a complete start from scratch so rust issues with older models also don't apply (although it may have new issues I've not heard of anything specific/haven't looked into it).
Not having a dig, just want to make sure the OP is aware that the MK3 is a very different kettle of fish in terms of design and parts.
MX5OC has the highest proportion of Mk3 owners I think, so probably the best place to ask.
From everyone I've spoke to their pretty solid though, I think most of the modern Mazdas are supposed to be pretty good.
All the racers have been absolutely spanking the crap out of them for a few years now and they lap it up which must bode well for the general integrity of the car.
From everyone I've spoke to their pretty solid though, I think most of the modern Mazdas are supposed to be pretty good.
All the racers have been absolutely spanking the crap out of them for a few years now and they lap it up which must bode well for the general integrity of the car.
snotrag said:
MX5OC has the highest proportion of Mk3 owners I think, so probably the best place to ask.
From everyone I've spoke to their pretty solid though, I think most of the modern Mazdas are supposed to be pretty good.
All the racers have been absolutely spanking the crap out of them for a few years now and they lap it up which must bode well for the general integrity of the car.
MX5.com has a lot of mk3 users too.From everyone I've spoke to their pretty solid though, I think most of the modern Mazdas are supposed to be pretty good.
All the racers have been absolutely spanking the crap out of them for a few years now and they lap it up which must bode well for the general integrity of the car.
Not wanting to tempt fate, but I've had mine since new, 5 years & 49,000 miles later it's cost me servicing, & a couple of sets of tyres. Mot a couple of weeks ago advisory front pads wearing thin.
Apart from that front offside abs sensor was faulty & replaced under warranty.
On this subject, I know that it is best to buy on condition (little or no rust) however how much should mileage come into it? Reason for asking is that I am looking at purchasing a MK2 and the ones I find within budget are pushing 120/140k+, however some have been in great condition. So, how do they cope with high mileage?
Hi Kit kat
40k under my mk3s belt and first real failure - still to confirm but could be the lambda sensor
Things to look out for:
cleared drainholes so water doesn't build up in places like the boot
new windscreen? check damp in footwells most noteably behind glovebox due to the fixing splitting when windscreen replaced
alloys corrode - if less than three years old then get changed before warranty up
if lowered/eibached then look at car to see if riding equally in all corners - some garages (usually dealers) tighten everything up withe car raised when final tightenings should take place on the ground or twisted bush syndrome could take place
Happy hunting
40k under my mk3s belt and first real failure - still to confirm but could be the lambda sensor
Things to look out for:
cleared drainholes so water doesn't build up in places like the boot
new windscreen? check damp in footwells most noteably behind glovebox due to the fixing splitting when windscreen replaced
alloys corrode - if less than three years old then get changed before warranty up
if lowered/eibached then look at car to see if riding equally in all corners - some garages (usually dealers) tighten everything up withe car raised when final tightenings should take place on the ground or twisted bush syndrome could take place
Happy hunting
Mk3 here bullet proof.
Compared to my last 3 Renaultsports which were all new & bloody good job as they defo needed the warranty.
Mk3 once align/geo is set properly, these are awesome machines, safe & FUN!
Got a set of brand new continentals sitting in the garage as when I moved over from the Renaults I thought all cars had an appetite for tyres. 2 yrs later still stacked up as Michelin Exaltos still going strong
Compared to my last 3 Renaultsports which were all new & bloody good job as they defo needed the warranty.
Mk3 once align/geo is set properly, these are awesome machines, safe & FUN!
Got a set of brand new continentals sitting in the garage as when I moved over from the Renaults I thought all cars had an appetite for tyres. 2 yrs later still stacked up as Michelin Exaltos still going strong
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