Problem with brakes ?
Discussion
Hi All,
Sorry if this is a really basic question but every now and then (completely at random) the brake pedal will become very slack with it travelling nearly to the floor when I try and brake. Very disconcerting whilst trying to stop !!!
Do you think the brakes need bleeding and if so do all 4 need to be done or can just the front brakes be bled ?
Many Thanks
Ian
Sorry if this is a really basic question but every now and then (completely at random) the brake pedal will become very slack with it travelling nearly to the floor when I try and brake. Very disconcerting whilst trying to stop !!!
Do you think the brakes need bleeding and if so do all 4 need to be done or can just the front brakes be bled ?
Many Thanks
Ian
If you get pressure if you repeatedly pump the pedal, then it's probably master cylinder (just the seals if you're lucky...).
Try it cold in the garage before you fire it up. If you get pressure then, but not after driving for a while, consider the sticky or seized caliper more likely... the master cyl problem will show up even when stone cold.
Mine was fine even for quick stops, once I got into the habit of pumping the pedal, but it got a bit silly and probably dangerous..... New seals fixed it.
New brake fluid might help - you're supposed to change it regularly, but nobody does.(OK, a select few do) After it absorbs water, its boiling point drops very rapidly and you get gas bubbles....
Bleeding and new fluid - with any vehicle I typically do the shortest runs first (i.e. front), and then longer runs (rear). Wedges are a bugger because they have the inline pressure reducer for the rear, and the rear calipers have two (three ?) wonderful looped pipes which are perfect for gas bubbles, and it can take a lot of bleeding (and cursing) to get it all flushed out.
Try it cold in the garage before you fire it up. If you get pressure then, but not after driving for a while, consider the sticky or seized caliper more likely... the master cyl problem will show up even when stone cold.
Mine was fine even for quick stops, once I got into the habit of pumping the pedal, but it got a bit silly and probably dangerous..... New seals fixed it.
New brake fluid might help - you're supposed to change it regularly, but nobody does.(OK, a select few do) After it absorbs water, its boiling point drops very rapidly and you get gas bubbles....
Bleeding and new fluid - with any vehicle I typically do the shortest runs first (i.e. front), and then longer runs (rear). Wedges are a bugger because they have the inline pressure reducer for the rear, and the rear calipers have two (three ?) wonderful looped pipes which are perfect for gas bubbles, and it can take a lot of bleeding (and cursing) to get it all flushed out.
Edited by RCK974X on Wednesday 29th February 22:34
RCK974X said:
Bleeding and new fluid - with any vehicle I typically do the shortest runs first (i.e. front), and then longer runs (rear). Wedges are a bugger because they have the inline pressure reducer for the rear, and the rear calipers have two (three ?) wonderful looped pipes which are perfect for gas bubbles, and it can take a lot of bleeding (and cursing) to get it all flushed out.
AFAIK you should always do the longest one 1st.The auto pressure bleed systems are very handy and not that expensive.
Yeah, I think many manuals *DO* say longest first, but I never got that order to work with any vehicle that had a rear pressure reducer.....I reckon the bubbles in the front get in the way.
On cars without the valve had no problem doing longest first.
That's just my personal experience, so whatever works !
Brake pressure systems (Ezibleed etc) are good but waste a lot of brake fluid as I understand.
On cars without the valve had no problem doing longest first.
That's just my personal experience, so whatever works !
Brake pressure systems (Ezibleed etc) are good but waste a lot of brake fluid as I understand.
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