MK1 GOLF 1300cc GF Engine Not Idling
Discussion
VW Golf Mk1
1300cc
GF Engine Code
Hi there,
Have a problem with my MK 1 and seeking advise from the experts.
The engine starts ok with the choke and the choke disengaged the engine cuts out. Without the choke, it will start but only idle for 5 seconds and cuts out.
So far I have performed the following:
1. Ignition coil voltage checked, ok
2. Fuel lines clear. Removed the fuel gauge and checked for corrosion in tank.
3. Mechanical fuel pump is working fine.
4. Contact point / breakers replaced and gap adjusted as per the manual spec.
5. All spark plug leads ok
6. Cylinder head gasket and all other gaskets replaced due to blown head gasket between #1 & #2 cylinder. Timing belt installed correctly and all timing marks line up.
7. Earth (-ve) checked and cleaned. No corroded or damaged battery terminals.
8. Carb fuel cut off solenoid replaced with a new one
9. Original carb replaced with an identical one and earthed. Solex 34 PICT 6
10. Firing order ok
11. Spark plugs ok and gap adjusted
12. Distributor condensor replaced
13. Carb gasket which sits on inlet manifold checked, no leak
14. Brake servo disconnected and inlet manifold port capped, no difference
15. +ve supply from battery taken direct to +ve port of ignition coil to bypass ballast resistor and resistive wire, no difference
16. Fuel / air mixture of carb ok
17. All jets in carb checked and clear
One thing I noticed was that the fuel in the fuel filter is only 1/5 full while the engine is running. Is that normal? I would have thought at least 1/2 full. I took the mechanical fuel pump out and tested it by putting the inlet into a container of fuel and pressed the spring loaded shaft to check the function and it was working.
Quite frustrated on what is the actual cause. Appreciate if you can help me.
Thanks a lot.
1300cc
GF Engine Code
Hi there,
Have a problem with my MK 1 and seeking advise from the experts.
The engine starts ok with the choke and the choke disengaged the engine cuts out. Without the choke, it will start but only idle for 5 seconds and cuts out.
So far I have performed the following:
1. Ignition coil voltage checked, ok
2. Fuel lines clear. Removed the fuel gauge and checked for corrosion in tank.
3. Mechanical fuel pump is working fine.
4. Contact point / breakers replaced and gap adjusted as per the manual spec.
5. All spark plug leads ok
6. Cylinder head gasket and all other gaskets replaced due to blown head gasket between #1 & #2 cylinder. Timing belt installed correctly and all timing marks line up.
7. Earth (-ve) checked and cleaned. No corroded or damaged battery terminals.
8. Carb fuel cut off solenoid replaced with a new one
9. Original carb replaced with an identical one and earthed. Solex 34 PICT 6
10. Firing order ok
11. Spark plugs ok and gap adjusted
12. Distributor condensor replaced
13. Carb gasket which sits on inlet manifold checked, no leak
14. Brake servo disconnected and inlet manifold port capped, no difference
15. +ve supply from battery taken direct to +ve port of ignition coil to bypass ballast resistor and resistive wire, no difference
16. Fuel / air mixture of carb ok
17. All jets in carb checked and clear
One thing I noticed was that the fuel in the fuel filter is only 1/5 full while the engine is running. Is that normal? I would have thought at least 1/2 full. I took the mechanical fuel pump out and tested it by putting the inlet into a container of fuel and pressed the spring loaded shaft to check the function and it was working.
Quite frustrated on what is the actual cause. Appreciate if you can help me.
Thanks a lot.
Hi Simon,
Thanks for the response.
Yes, the carb base is ok and no leaks. Did a functional test on the fuel pump and the fuel flow is good.
Checked all the jets and they are clear.
I noticed the crank case breather has some gunk in it, not sure if its a contributing factor, I'll clean it anyway by removing the cover somehow.
Wish I could use a diagnostics software to pin point the problem instantly instead of the old traditional way of replacing several parts before you find the root cause.
Will see if cleaning the breather will make a difference.
Cheers.
Thanks for the response.
Yes, the carb base is ok and no leaks. Did a functional test on the fuel pump and the fuel flow is good.
Checked all the jets and they are clear.
I noticed the crank case breather has some gunk in it, not sure if its a contributing factor, I'll clean it anyway by removing the cover somehow.
Wish I could use a diagnostics software to pin point the problem instantly instead of the old traditional way of replacing several parts before you find the root cause.
Will see if cleaning the breather will make a difference.
Cheers.
Hi duncancallum,
Thanks for the response.
The carb fitted is a Pierburg Solex 34 PICT-6.
I have checked the gasket it sits on and it is ok. I also have disassembled the carb completely, cleaned it and cannot find anything. All jets are clear from any blockages.
I may have to check the ignition timing again.
Just running out of ideas what to do.
Just get so frustrated with this car. Feel like setting it on fire.
Thanks again for your help.
Thanks for the response.
The carb fitted is a Pierburg Solex 34 PICT-6.
I have checked the gasket it sits on and it is ok. I also have disassembled the carb completely, cleaned it and cannot find anything. All jets are clear from any blockages.
I may have to check the ignition timing again.
Just running out of ideas what to do.
Just get so frustrated with this car. Feel like setting it on fire.
Thanks again for your help.
Are you checking the ignition timing by light or by ear? If there's play in the distributor shaft, then it can cause timing issues if you use a light. And I know it's obvious, but forgettable, but make sure you unplug the vacuum advance pipe if it has one (Don't know the specifics of this engine.) I would expect however, if it's an ignition fault you'd just have a lot of backfiring.
Perhaps if you put the car on an emission analyser, and see what comes up. Might tell you if it's running too rich or lean in those last seconds.
Is it a manual choke, or electronic/water based choke?
Perhaps if you put the car on an emission analyser, and see what comes up. Might tell you if it's running too rich or lean in those last seconds.
Is it a manual choke, or electronic/water based choke?
Hi maniac0796,
Thanks for the response.
It is a manual choke system on the carb.
Haven't heard any good reviews regarding the solex 34 pict 6 carb. Apparantely its know for its idle issues.
Will check the timing first before exploring else where. In the haynes manual it states how to adjust the static timing using a test lamp, will do that first and see if it makes a difference.
If this fails, then I'll take the carb off again and spray carb cleaner through the ports.
If that fails then I'll remove the fuel tank and check the breather hoses. The fuel sender and fuel outlet from the tank were all clear when I last checked, no obstruction.
If that fails, then maybe consider changing the carb to a weber if I can get hold of one.
After that I'll just hit a brick wall.
Thanks for your help mate, much appreciated.
Thanks for the response.
It is a manual choke system on the carb.
Haven't heard any good reviews regarding the solex 34 pict 6 carb. Apparantely its know for its idle issues.
Will check the timing first before exploring else where. In the haynes manual it states how to adjust the static timing using a test lamp, will do that first and see if it makes a difference.
If this fails, then I'll take the carb off again and spray carb cleaner through the ports.
If that fails then I'll remove the fuel tank and check the breather hoses. The fuel sender and fuel outlet from the tank were all clear when I last checked, no obstruction.
If that fails, then maybe consider changing the carb to a weber if I can get hold of one.
After that I'll just hit a brick wall.
Thanks for your help mate, much appreciated.
How many settings on the choke do you have. Can you choose between 3 or so openings, or is it simply open and close.
I understand your frustration with crap carbs. I have a pierburg on my BMW that gives nothing but crap idling and poor hot start. Can't wait to get some money together for a Weber.
I understand your frustration with crap carbs. I have a pierburg on my BMW that gives nothing but crap idling and poor hot start. Can't wait to get some money together for a Weber.
I've got an idle problem too 
I've no checked as many things as you have, just assuming it's carb related due to the fact I've done nothing to the carb in the 8 years I've had the car
So far I've pulled the top off the carb & it's pretty clean inside ... gasket is a bit past it .. no.16 in the following pic
Got a re-build kit coming & post up what I find
...
I am getting plenty of fuel in the inline filter though
I've no checked as many things as you have, just assuming it's carb related due to the fact I've done nothing to the carb in the 8 years I've had the car
So far I've pulled the top off the carb & it's pretty clean inside ... gasket is a bit past it .. no.16 in the following pic
Got a re-build kit coming & post up what I find
...
I am getting plenty of fuel in the inline filter though
Hi maniac0796,
Thanks for the response.
It is a manual choke system on the carb.
Haven't heard any good reviews regarding the solex 34 pict 6 carb. Apparantely its know for its idle issues.
Will check the timing first before exploring else where. In the haynes manual it states how to adjust the static timing using a test lamp, will do that first and see if it makes a difference.
If this fails, then I'll take the carb off again and spray carb cleaner through the ports.
If that fails then I'll remove the fuel tank and check the breather hoses. The fuel sender and fuel outlet from the tank were all clear when I last checked, no obstruction.
If that fails, then maybe consider changing the carb to a weber if I can get hold of one.
After that I'll just hit a brick wall.
Thanks for your help mate, much appreciated.
Thanks for the response.
It is a manual choke system on the carb.
Haven't heard any good reviews regarding the solex 34 pict 6 carb. Apparantely its know for its idle issues.
Will check the timing first before exploring else where. In the haynes manual it states how to adjust the static timing using a test lamp, will do that first and see if it makes a difference.
If this fails, then I'll take the carb off again and spray carb cleaner through the ports.
If that fails then I'll remove the fuel tank and check the breather hoses. The fuel sender and fuel outlet from the tank were all clear when I last checked, no obstruction.
If that fails, then maybe consider changing the carb to a weber if I can get hold of one.
After that I'll just hit a brick wall.
Thanks for your help mate, much appreciated.
Hi maniac0796,
Thanks for the response.
It is a manual choke system on the carb.
Haven't heard any good reviews regarding the solex 34 pict 6 carb. Apparantely its know for its idle issues.
Will check the timing first before exploring else where. In the haynes manual it states how to adjust the static timing using a test lamp, will do that first and see if it makes a difference.
If this fails, then I'll take the carb off again and spray carb cleaner through the ports.
If that fails then I'll remove the fuel tank and check the breather hoses. The fuel sender and fuel outlet from the tank were all clear when I last checked, no obstruction.
If that fails, then maybe consider changing the carb to a weber if I can get hold of one.
After that I'll just hit a brick wall.
Thanks for your help mate, much appreciated.
Thanks for the response.
It is a manual choke system on the carb.
Haven't heard any good reviews regarding the solex 34 pict 6 carb. Apparantely its know for its idle issues.
Will check the timing first before exploring else where. In the haynes manual it states how to adjust the static timing using a test lamp, will do that first and see if it makes a difference.
If this fails, then I'll take the carb off again and spray carb cleaner through the ports.
If that fails then I'll remove the fuel tank and check the breather hoses. The fuel sender and fuel outlet from the tank were all clear when I last checked, no obstruction.
If that fails, then maybe consider changing the carb to a weber if I can get hold of one.
After that I'll just hit a brick wall.
Thanks for your help mate, much appreciated.
Idling issue sorted. It was a combination of problems.
The wire between the coil and condensor had an internal break which is not visible to the eye. I only noticed it with my test lamp. Never thought this would be the case as externally the wire looks in good condition. Valuable lesson.
There was a very thin split of the rubber gasket which the carburetor sits on.
Finally, when I adjusted the points, the bearing plate was off so I had easy access. Noticed when the bearing plate is put back on, it alters the points gap as the distributor shaft is pushed into a more central position. Adjust the points with the bearing plate on, only undo the retaining screws, and turn the plate until you are able to slide in the filler gauge. Quite tricky, just have to be patient.
Then adjusted the static timing again using a test lamp. Runs sweet now.
Now I have a new problem. The 1st, 2nd and 4th gear engages fine. The 3rd gear pops out after pushing it in and lifting the clutch. If I hold it in, its fine. Also the reverse gear does not go in. Even if the engine is off. I think it may be due to the gap between the finger and plate. If not, then it may be the bushes of the gear linkage.
The wire between the coil and condensor had an internal break which is not visible to the eye. I only noticed it with my test lamp. Never thought this would be the case as externally the wire looks in good condition. Valuable lesson.
There was a very thin split of the rubber gasket which the carburetor sits on.
Finally, when I adjusted the points, the bearing plate was off so I had easy access. Noticed when the bearing plate is put back on, it alters the points gap as the distributor shaft is pushed into a more central position. Adjust the points with the bearing plate on, only undo the retaining screws, and turn the plate until you are able to slide in the filler gauge. Quite tricky, just have to be patient.
Then adjusted the static timing again using a test lamp. Runs sweet now.
Now I have a new problem. The 1st, 2nd and 4th gear engages fine. The 3rd gear pops out after pushing it in and lifting the clutch. If I hold it in, its fine. Also the reverse gear does not go in. Even if the engine is off. I think it may be due to the gap between the finger and plate. If not, then it may be the bushes of the gear linkage.
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