e36 328 overheating....
Discussion
my £700 328 boiled over at the weekend, Split a hose and lost all of its coolant. i replaced the hose and refilled the coolant and kept filling under the bubbles from the bleed screw stopped. Its still overheating almost immediately and no hot air from the heater. the easy answer would be 'its b
ksed' and to throw it away and get another but its still running fine, no mayo in the oil and no water vapour from the exhaust.
These engines seem to have known over heating issues and i suspect that the rad is partly at fault as it was weeping from the coolant low sensor at the bottom of the rad, but that doesnt explain the rapid overheating, the lack of warm air from the heater and the fact that the top hose doesnt seem to be full. I think it could be a thermostat or water pump issue.
Any ideas?
ksed' and to throw it away and get another but its still running fine, no mayo in the oil and no water vapour from the exhaust. These engines seem to have known over heating issues and i suspect that the rad is partly at fault as it was weeping from the coolant low sensor at the bottom of the rad, but that doesnt explain the rapid overheating, the lack of warm air from the heater and the fact that the top hose doesnt seem to be full. I think it could be a thermostat or water pump issue.
Any ideas?
thermostat or water pump are likely culprits, both common problems. is yours an M52B28 or M52TUB28? the earlier ones may (?) have had water pumps with a plastic impeller.
other thing is it needs bleeding properly. these engines are notorious for being a bit of a bugger to bleed properly, so that would be my first attempt before looking at the thermostat and water pump.
just don't keep driving it and letting it overheat until it's sorted. if you keep overheating it your head gasket will be more likely to go too.
other thing is it needs bleeding properly. these engines are notorious for being a bit of a bugger to bleed properly, so that would be my first attempt before looking at the thermostat and water pump.
just don't keep driving it and letting it overheat until it's sorted. if you keep overheating it your head gasket will be more likely to go too.
E38Ross said:
thermostat or water pump are likely culprits, both common problems. is yours an M52B28 or M52TUB28? the earlier ones may (?) have had water pumps with a plastic impeller.
other thing is it needs bleeding properly. these engines are notorious for being a bit of a bugger to bleed properly, so that would be my first attempt before looking at the thermostat and water pump.
just don't keep driving it and letting it overheat until it's sorted. if you keep overheating it your head gasket will be more likely to go too.
Thanks for your response. i dont know which engine it is - 1995 M plate if that makes it easier? Ive looked at the bleeding procedure on various sites which suggest, heaters on full, revs at 2500 rpm and keep filling until no bubbles. done that. still overheated. Ive switched off each time its done it so hopefully hasnt cracked the head or killed the gasket. I'll strip it at the weekend and see if theres anything obvious.other thing is it needs bleeding properly. these engines are notorious for being a bit of a bugger to bleed properly, so that would be my first attempt before looking at the thermostat and water pump.
just don't keep driving it and letting it overheat until it's sorted. if you keep overheating it your head gasket will be more likely to go too.
cheers
Rob
How long from stone cold is it before the engine starts over heating? 5 to 10 mins could indicate a failed thermostat. Try removing the thermostat as a test.
A failed head gasket doesn't always manifest itself as water in the oil, overheating can be a sympton. A sniffer test will prove.
These engines are easy to bleed. Just use the screw on the tank at the end of the rad.
As has been mentioned, DON'T let the car overheat or you could reduce the engine to scrap.
A failed head gasket doesn't always manifest itself as water in the oil, overheating can be a sympton. A sniffer test will prove.
These engines are easy to bleed. Just use the screw on the tank at the end of the rad.
As has been mentioned, DON'T let the car overheat or you could reduce the engine to scrap.
mk2zetec said:
Thanks for your response. i dont know which engine it is - 1995 M plate if that makes it easier?
Rob
It's an M52B28 (single VANOS) engine, no E36 had the M52TUB28 (dual VANOS) fitted, that came in with the E46.Rob
These engines are renowned for a couple of things:
1) The coolant system doesn't age well, radiators split, expansion tanks split, plastic waterpump impellers disintegrate, metal waterpump impellers can seize, thermostats fail, viscous fans fail, hoses split etc., etc.
2) Being an all alloy engine, even a one time overheat can cause severe damage to them (blown headgaskets, warped heads, cracks in the head or block).
3) Contrary to what some might tell you, they can be a real pain in the a
e to bleed properly as they tend to get several airlocks in the coolant circuit. just when you think you've succeeded in bleeding it fully, suddenly the coolant level can drop and you find it's not over yet. (The BMW Dealership I use had problems bleeding mine when I had the radiator replaced). Best bet is to do a search on the best method to bleed the system, but first you need to track down the cause of the original overheating and the current overheating!
As others have said, check the waterpump and the thermostat first.
The quick overheating, lack of hot air from the heater vents and the top hose not being full sounds like you've got an airlock somewhere and the coolant isn't flowing round the circuit.
If you've got away without any head damage then you've been very lucky!
4rephill said:
3) Contrary to what some might tell you, they can be a real pain in the ae to bleed properly as they tend to get several airlocks in the coolant circuit. just when you think you've succeeded in bleeding it fully, suddenly the coolant level can drop and you find it's not over yet. (The BMW Dealership I use had problems bleeding mine when I had the radiator replaced).
Hmmm, done a few of these now and never had a problem bleeding one......assuming the cooling system is functioning as it should be. e to bleed properly as they tend to get several airlocks in the coolant circuit. just when you think you've succeeded in bleeding it fully, suddenly the coolant level can drop and you find it's not over yet. (The BMW Dealership I use had problems bleeding mine when I had the radiator replaced). E38Ross said:
'95 will be quite an early model so MAY have plastic impeller, but not 100% sure on that.
when bleeding, did you unscrew the bleed screw?
hi yes i did remove the bleed screw. ill strip this weekend and post the responsewhen bleeding, did you unscrew the bleed screw?
im hoping the head hasnt gone - it will be a scrapper if it has...
Don't start throwing money at it until you have a sniffer test done, the head gaskets on these often pressurise the cooling system when they go making it impossible to bleed at all. I find it helps to raise the front of the car as high as you can whilst filling/bleeding the radiator.
E38Ross said:
'95 will be quite an early model so MAY have plastic impeller, but not 100% sure on that.
when bleeding, did you unscrew the bleed screw?
It'll have the plastic impellor, funnily enough I've just replaced the plastic one on my 330 as well, op I'd look at waterpump , I never had any problems bleeding a 328 if it had a healthy waterpump.when bleeding, did you unscrew the bleed screw?
To the OP: See if this article is of any help: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-C...
Also, this part from the comments section sounded familiar:
vic Comments: dear wayne i have a 1995 bmw 525i that i just replaced the radiator the water pump thermostate and clutch fan on and the damn thing is still blowing cold air and sometimes overheats i have bled the system and still nothing please help
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Blowing cold air instead of hot air through the heater? Sounds like a broken heater valve, or a massive air bubble in the system. I'd bet on air bubble. If you are having trouble bleeding the system by normal means, you can try pulling a vacuum on the system using a port attached to where the radiator cap fits. This is a standard procedure for Porsches, but it can also work for other cars that are having issues. Also try bleeding the car many times, at cold and warm too. It's probably just a bubble in there. Make sure the heater and fan are set to ON when you bleed. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
Also, this part from the comments section sounded familiar:
vic Comments: dear wayne i have a 1995 bmw 525i that i just replaced the radiator the water pump thermostate and clutch fan on and the damn thing is still blowing cold air and sometimes overheats i have bled the system and still nothing please help
Followup from the Pelican Staff: Blowing cold air instead of hot air through the heater? Sounds like a broken heater valve, or a massive air bubble in the system. I'd bet on air bubble. If you are having trouble bleeding the system by normal means, you can try pulling a vacuum on the system using a port attached to where the radiator cap fits. This is a standard procedure for Porsches, but it can also work for other cars that are having issues. Also try bleeding the car many times, at cold and warm too. It's probably just a bubble in there. Make sure the heater and fan are set to ON when you bleed. - Wayne at Pelican Parts
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