Anderson connector rubber boot
Discussion
Seems that at some stage it not only fell off but the rubber strap that prevents it from getting lost must have broken.
Anyone know where you can get a replacement?
Also, has anyone had any joy relocating it from the frankly ludicrous current location on the Sagaris / T350 to somewhere more sensible?
Anyone know where you can get a replacement?
Also, has anyone had any joy relocating it from the frankly ludicrous current location on the Sagaris / T350 to somewhere more sensible?
JonRB said:
Seems that at some stage it not only fell off but the rubber strap that prevents it from getting lost must have broken.
Anyone know where you can get a replacement?
Also, has anyone had any joy relocating it from the frankly ludicrous current location on the Sagaris / T350 to somewhere more sensible?
Google it, costs about £5 from the places that sell the anderson connectorsAnyone know where you can get a replacement?
Also, has anyone had any joy relocating it from the frankly ludicrous current location on the Sagaris / T350 to somewhere more sensible?
shep1001 said:
oh and the only problem with moving it inside the car is that if the battery goes flat as a witches tit you have no way of plugging in to get enough charge to open the doors:JonRB said:
I was wondering if it could be relocated to the engine bay, maybe near the fans where it is less hot. It would be accessible though the small bonnet of the Sagaris. The wires could come out of the large vents when plugged in.
It Could go anywhere I guess, all you need is some longer cables rated to the correct amperage; then re-route from the battery terminalsBy the way, someone told me in a thread recently that water in the cap was sometimes a cause of shorting and fire 
Options given to me were to leave it off altogether and pack it with grease or cut a hole in the cap to let any water out
...or not drive it in the rain (I discounted this one)
Options given to me were to leave it off altogether and pack it with grease or cut a hole in the cap to let any water out
...or not drive it in the rain (I discounted this one)
Kernow67 said:
By the way, someone told me in a thread recently that water in the cap was sometimes a cause of shorting and fire
Options given to me were to leave it off altogether and pack it with grease or cut a hole in the cap to let any water out
...or not drive it in the rain (I discounted this one)
The one I bought had two holes in anywayOptions given to me were to leave it off altogether and pack it with grease or cut a hole in the cap to let any water out
...or not drive it in the rain (I discounted this one)
I have relocated mine to inside the car, just behind the panel in passenger footwell. I also have a connector for the battery conditioner so i just leave that dangling out the bottom of the door when parked up at home so if the worst does happen i can connect up to that and get the doors open.
Kernow67 said:
By the way, someone told me in a thread recently that water in the cap was sometimes a cause of shorting and fire
Options given to me were to leave it off altogether and pack it with grease or cut a hole in the cap to let any water out
...or not drive it in the rain (I discounted this one)
The rubber cap is actually a dust cap and was never intended to be waterproof. The plug itself has several holes in it and it unlikely to hold enough water to act as a short. Options given to me were to leave it off altogether and pack it with grease or cut a hole in the cap to let any water out
...or not drive it in the rain (I discounted this one)
The real problem is corrosion causing the leads to come loose which then short out . On the replacement leads I do, I use adhesive heat shrink to seal the wire/terminal joint. The adhesive also holds the wire in place so that it can't move. Repeat several times with a big external seal and the unit is pretty solid.
The red plug is also a universal non keyed version which will take any colour Anderson connector.
One final point about the battery conditioner to get enough power to open the doors. If the battery has discharged a lot, many conditioners recognise this as a battery fault and will not switch on. In some cases the battery itself may be partially shorted out so that a charger won't be able to generate sufficient voltage to power the alarm/controls reliably. In this case it is a jump start battery time. This requires the bigger connector.
The Leven Tech jump leads I have are sodding great thick leads with honking great crocodile clips on them that look more suited to a truck than a car. I've long suspected that the cables on the car side of the Anderson connector are far more modest and your pic seems to confirm that, Steve.
Yes, I was aware of the corrosion issue. Quite frankly I have never understood why TVR sited the connector where they did on the T-cars - not only is it inconvenient to access but is dreadfully exposed to water and assorted mud & crud. Even more so in my case now that I've lost the cap.
Yes, I was aware of the corrosion issue. Quite frankly I have never understood why TVR sited the connector where they did on the T-cars - not only is it inconvenient to access but is dreadfully exposed to water and assorted mud & crud. Even more so in my case now that I've lost the cap.
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